Cheapest Possible AR Build

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AJAX22

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I've been looking at what people are spending on building up there AR's and it can get kindof intimidating. Especially for a college student on a tight budget. I've been looking into getting an off list lower in anticipation of the AR's getting compleatly obliterated here in California.

I'd be looking into building a fun gun, not a tack driver, not a pretty toy, just something to drag out and chew through .223 when I feel like it (I have other guns to fit those specific needs)

used parts arn't a problem, shipping has to be factored in however as there arn't much in the way of parts here in the peoples republic.

The question is: How do you do it on the cheap?
 
About $500 is a reasonable figure. Any less and you won't be getting decent parts. You could put together an A-2 for about $500 if you bought parts on sale and/or used to save some money. I have built a few of them and unless you are looking to build a custom rifle, you may be just as well off if you find a good deal on a used RRA or Bushmaster.

You are going to have to spend some money on items to help you build the rifle that must be factored into the cost. You are going to need a barrel vise and a AR-15 wrench. Unless you plan on building more than one AR-15, it may not save you any money. OTHO, if you are looking for a hobby, it is worth it.
 
The cheapest way to go would be to search the EE (equipment exchange) on AR15.com daily for barely used quality AR parts, and then assemble when done. This can take time, but is doable.


The other way, would be to find a stripped lower locally for $115 or less. If not, then buy one online for $90 shipped, and find a cheap transfer ($15-$20 + nics)


Then buy a kit from either JT or CMMG or DelTon.


Tools needed would be a couple of pin punches, and if you get the collapsable stock, a castle nut wrench ($10).


DO NOT, REPEAT, DO NOT BUY A KIT FROM MODEL 1 SALES. I am preparing a thread on why not to buy from them with pictures included)


I've heard that Olympic isn't using cast receivers anymore, not even on their "plinker model"..this might be an option. If you really search around hard, you might be able to get a factory rifle for $100 more than building a kit, which in some instances is worth not dealing with building it yourself, transfers, and tool costs.


Just depends.
 
It can be done very cheaply, if you find the right deal at the right time.

I got a C7 20" upper with bolt carrier and handle, buttstock and pistol grip for $225, with a minty barrel, Stag lower for $89, lower kit for $49. Upper came from a gun show, lower and kit from the EE on ARFcom.

That's $365 for an AR, and it runs like a top.
 
Model1small.JPG


$515 if you don't count the Holosight.

Stripped Stag lower and Model 1 lightweight CAR kit.
 
When buying used parts, what should I be warry of? what wears on an AR? How worn is too worn?

are barreled uppers the only way to go? or is it cheaper to piece it togeather one at a time?

I really just want to make sure I have an AR in the event that they get further banned here in California.

I don't want to just have a lower sitting around that can't run.

what is bare minimum to make a reliable gun?
 
I wouldn't buy a used bolt/bolt carrier as a stand alone part. Those should always be new or kept with the upper they were broken in on.

Barrels can be worn and accuracy can suffer after thousands of rounds.

Barreled uppers are usually the best way to go unless you have the wrenches and receiver blocks (which most people don't).

The lower receiver IS the gun and you can have several uppers for it and it's still only considered one gun.

Reliable gun? Barring some lemons, all AR's will run when kept reasonably clean and you use good ammunition and good magazines (don't go bigger than 30 rounds).
 
they are limited to a fixed mag ONLY if you keep the pistol grip and/or flashider on the gun (and you have to have a fixed stock)

If you want the fun features you have to put a pinned 10 rounder in place.
 
i recommend that you don't try to cut corners too much. go ahead and get a stag or rock river lower now - they're still pretty cheap. don't, however skimp too much on the parts because it can be kind of hit or miss. i have a model 1 upper that is 100% reliable and as accurate as one can expect from an 11 1/2" barrel but it didn't fit a rock river lower very well and the model 1 parts group had fit issues as well. the hammer pin walked out binding the action and giving me fits.
 
Well I bit the bullet and bought a stag lower today, should be here in a few weeks, now I have to chase down a lower parts kit.

whats good to get? whats crap to avoid? and how cheap can I get it for?


The gun shop I went to buy it from had stags for 175+ fees, so I ordered one for 99 shipped + 45 charge from shop + 25 DROS fees. 169 total out the door.

The guy at the shop tried to sell me a complete stag ar that he had there for 1200, I told him I figured I could probably get out the door on a self built for less than seven hundered.

He didn't believe me and wants to see reciepts when I build it.


The place I ordered from is currently back ordered on stags, but I can get a double star for the same price any thoughts on that?

I appriciate all the help guys, I'll post pictures as I get it togeather.
 
Thanks for the input, anyone know anything about quality?

I've got a thread started over in firearm accessorys trying to get pieces for this.

If anyone's got anything send me a pm from there.
 
haven't heard much good or bad about doublestar. my friend just bought a complete ameetec lower with six position m4 style stock for $200. i can ask where he got it if you're interested.
 
DO NOT, REPEAT, DO NOT BUY A KIT FROM MODEL 1 SALES.
Click to expand...

Not sure what your beef is, but my Model 1 Sales M4 type kit with chrome lined barrel is perfect, and mated with my DPMS lower, it's an awesome shooter...
 
del-ton 20" kit- $455
essential arms stripped lower- $77

or you can often find oly arms plinkers for around $500. You might also look for some used parts.
 
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You will be pleased with the stag,they are top tier in quality. Your friend for AR parts is AR.com . Look in the EE (equipment exchange) for used stuff and in Industry for new stuff. I would just buy the Stag lower parts kit or the Rock River lower parts kit. They are reffered to as LPK . I would recomend " Pete in New Hampshire" for anything Rock River, He is about as cheep as any and will give you the straight skinny about shipping,availability or anything else you need/want to know. He is found as "Legaltransfers" in the Industry section of Ar15.com
Most guys will agree that the savings is in building the lower ,best bet is to buy a complete upper new or used depending on your budget. Cost is higher but I allways recomend a flatop as the first for the versatility factor.
 
I'll check it out, I've been having difficulty registering at ar15, my student e-mail has been down, and my primary hotmail hasn't been accepted.

It should get sorted out however.
 
I just bought a double star stripped lower. Picking it up next week (30th). I'll compare it to my friends Stag and Mega Gator lowers. I have also heard that double star is by J&T or vice versa, never heard of anyone having issues with them.

Like Foxtrot mentioned, I am also looking at a del-ton kit, 16" though. I've already got 3500 rnds of .223 at the house :evil:
 
One nice thing about assembleing your own AR... you can spread out the purchase price. So you can put together a high quality rifle over a few to several months and not feel the pain of shelling out $950-1500 at one time, think about it that way when you're on a budget.

It took 9 months for my M4-gery to get 100% complete, and about 4 months for my wifes NM to get done.
 
ultimately I'll build up a nice AR,

right now I just want something that runs true and eats ammo reliably.

I'm trying to build it for less than half of the 1200$ that the gun store was charging for a new Stag AR.

The propriator stated that it was not possible to do a build for 600$ or less and that if I was able to do it he wanted to see reciepts.

a small wager was involved
 
I've heard that Olympic isn't using cast receivers anymore, not even on their "plinker model"..this might be an option. If you really search around hard, you might be able to get a factory rifle for $100 more than building a kit, which in some instances is worth not dealing with building it yourself, transfers, and tool costs.
Click to expand...
That is correct. Even the Olympic "Plinker Plus" now uses a forged lower. IMHO, it's much more cost effective to just buy one of those rather than try to build you own if you want an entry-level AR-15. It's difficult to beat the price, and when you get done building you have no warranty. The Plinkers seem to work out of the box, they have a warranty, and they are affordable.
 
I got a plinker for sixish--runs like a top and is very accurate.

I've since built a DPMS lower with a RRA internals. Using that with the plinker upper until I buy a 6.8 upper.

Anyone make a "clean" lower? Just a serial number? (I'd like to have one engraved all special like at the tropy shop.)
 
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