Checkering at 30lpi - anyone have documented damage?

[Jackal1]

Over the years I have often heard that 1911 front strap checkering at 30lpi is "fragile", especially on aluminum frames. I've heard the checkering gets dinged up easily & is not suitable for hard use. However, nobody has been able to show me a picture of their damaged 30lpi checkering nor explain how their photographed damage happened.

I'm guessing the issue is blown out of proportion and 30lpi checkering is probably just fine, but what has been your experience?

 

[Jackal1]

Not a single person claiming they've personally seen damaged 30lpi checkering? I'm guessing their frailty is one of those internet myths.

 

[rcmodel]

I sure can't.

Cause I don't have one.

I do have several wood stock rifles & shotguns with fine-line checkering I've owned for 40 years or more.

Wood checkering doesn't get damaged, unless you abuse it by scraping or beating it against stuff you shouldn't.

A checkered metal pistol frame would be much more resistant to that foolishness and mishandling then a walnut rifle stock.

That's all I can tell you.

rc

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

I haven't personally seen it either. With the exception of wearing rings made of a harder metal than gold or silver (e.g., titanium, stainless steel, beryllium) in direct contact with the frontstrap, it is inconceivable that normal handling and shooting could possibly damage it. A hard blow from a hard object, in exactly that spot, could, but such a blow would surely damage coarser checkering.

 

[Zach S]

I have seen it on a used gun, once. Don't know how it happened. The gun was a little rough, not abused, but well used. Another customer asked if it used to be mine since its condition reminded him of the Kimber I carry, so I had to get a better look at it. If not for that I probably wouldn't have noticed it.

 

[jbj]

In all the years I shot IPSC, I've never seen, not heard of it. Maybe if the smith who did the checkering buggered the job, but I don't think so otherwise.

 

[BBBBill]

Yes, I've seen it. Any checkering is more fragile than the surrounding base material simply by virtue of being a small unsupported projection standing proud of the surrounding material. The smaller/finer the checkering, the more risk of damage. Whether that is enough to warrant avoiding is up to the end user. I like it and do not worry about it. If damaged, it can be repaired or ignored.

Occasionally discussed on the 1911 Forum. You might get more answers there. There are far more practitioners and end users of checkering there and on other 1911 related forums. Of course there are others besides 1911 users, but those are by far the most common.

http://forums.1911forum.com/

http://www.1911pro.com/forum/

https://www.1911addicts.com/forums/

http://forum.m1911.org/forum.php

 

[ClarkEMyers]

I've seen damage on my own carry gun but not major

Mostly a few spots that look like the checkering hasn't been pointed up. I'm not going to find a camera and review how to post pictures. My own preference is 25 lpi and would once in my youth when I was a horny handed son of toil have been 20 lpi. In my old age with soft hands I am content with 30 lpi.

Just as most finishes wear so blue is more liable to wear than chrome so too I do believe 30 lpi is more fragile but no big deal.

 

[Blue68f100]

20, 25, and 30 all have the same point on the checkering. The spacing and depth is the only thing different. So what applies for damage on one applies to all. Any can be damaged if you bang them around.

 

[krs]

My first thought on it was that 30lpi would be less fragile than more course checkering because the cutting doesn't have to go as deep to make the points.

Either way I'd want to mike the thickness of the metal. There's some frames around now that seem to have been made where the grip frame is thinner than with a Colt. Maybe they cut costs that way.

If it is an 'aftermarket' frame be careful. I had a guy wanting his grip raised on one of the Philipino pistols by cutting under the trigger guard like the cool kids do Lucky there was enough density left so the thing could support a 30 amp flame. Usually a pretty simple thing but I found an air pocket or bubble as soon as my cutter took just a little bite. It was a cast frame - not very good casting. I wanted to give it back but was able to build it back with tig. One of those things that make you think to give up gun work forever.