Chokes

[peterk1234]

Hi all. Pete here, the guy that does not own a shotgun yet.

I am leaning toward a Remington V3. You guys have talked me out of a pump action. The v3 is affordable, sounds quite reliable and the gas system appears to manage recoil well and does not get dirty. Sounds perfect. Now to figure out 28 inch or 26. Probably 28. I equate it to bows..... I cannot buy into the short bow thing...... longer is more stable (although 2 inches on a shotgun is probably not noticeable for a newbie). I am not to concerned about my barrel being an issue walking through the woods..... all barrels are an issue walking through the woods

So I have been reading all about chokes. Seems like voodoo magic to me. I tried to find articles on what plays nice with the V3, but no luck. Then I started to think, a barrel is a barrel, and maybe the focus should be on choke and shot shell compatibility. Forget the gun. Is that a fair assumption? Maybe barrel length comes into play, where a 24 inch barrel will behave differently than a 28 inch with the same choke.

Thanks

Pete

 

[PapaG]

Choke is way ahead of length when you're only talking about a two inch difference. Choose the choke for the game you're shooting or playing. Go one choke more open if you have to use steel (you'll find most chokes for steel have two designations, at least for Brownings, example lead=full, steel=mod). For tromping through the woods and duck marshes, take the shorter one.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Most new shotguns, Rem. V3 included, come with interchangeable choke tubes.
The V3 will come with full, modified and improved cylinder tubes. Simply put they are for long medium and short range.
If you google search I'm sure you find plenty of info explaining it.

 

[cdb1]

Barrel length is purely personal preference. In the real world the only thing a 28” barrel does is get you 2” closer to the target than a 26” barrel.

Every shotgun barrel is different. There are no chokes that work better with 26” than 28” and vice versa. Certain brands of OEM chokes have a deserved reputation as being inferior to other OEM chokes, the most blatant being Winchester and Browning. I have both brands and use aftermarket chokes in them. Unless you are willing to pattern your shotgun you’ll never really know what choke shoots best out of your shotgun. I’ve done an exhaustive amount of patterning, it’s tiring, boring, tedious and seriously time consuming. I’m almost as proud of my patterning as I am of making it through college.

Many people are over choked. Of the chokes that come with a shotgun I use IC much more than any other. If I could only have one choke for everything(excluding turkey) it would be LM - Light Modified. I’ve never seen one come from the factory with a shotgun, you must get them after market.

 

[red rick]

If you are going to use aftermarket extended chokes , I would figure that in my barrel length , they usually add a inch or two , but before I bought any aftermarket chokes , I would pattern my gun with the factory tubes and a few different brands of shells , sometimes the shells will make as much difference as the choke tube .

We just did some patterning on my nephews 870 because he was missing a lot of rabbits . The 870 only comes with a modified choke tube . I had 3 aftermarket extended choke tubes , full , IM and modified . We patterned it with the shells he had and his factory choke performed just as well ( or just as bad ) as the others with those shells at 30 yards . He is going to pick up a few different brands and try them .

 

[peterk1234]

Thanks guys. I guess it is time to buy the gun, use the chokes it came with, get a bunch of different type ammo, and go to the range. Pete

 

[red rick]

I don't mind patterning a shotgun until I start using buckshot and some turkey loads .

 

[Virginian]

I have patterned RemChokes, Brileys', Trulocks, Browning Invectors, Berettas, Carlsons, and Colonials that I can think of offhand, and when the constriction versus bore diameter was the same, there was not enough difference between them to matter at normal ranges. Some, repeat some, extended tubes do pattern slightly better. RemChoke steel rated Full and Improved Modified flush chokes have both produced very good patterns for me with steel and tungsten loads as well as lead. Steel patterns exactly like lead, there are just fewer flyers. Some manufacturers started recommending one less constriction with steel in the early days to minimize damage to their guns and have stuck with that.

 

[guyfromohio]

Quoted from link:
https://1source.basspro.com/index.php/component/k2/240-hunting-gear/397-guide-to-shotgun-choke-tubes


The most commonly used choke tubes are these:

• Super-Full/Extra-Full: Two turkey hunting. They have extra-tight constrictions and the densest patterns.
  
  
• Full: This choke has tight constriction and a dense pattern, delivering approximately 70 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's often used for trap shooting, waterfowl pass shooting, turkey hunting and buckshot loads.
  
  
• Modified: This choke has less constriction than a full choke, delivering approximately 60 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's great for general waterfowl hunting and hunting distant-flushing upland birds and small-game animals such as late-season pheasants and rabbits. Also used for trap shooting.
  
  
• Improved Cylinder: Even less constricted than modified, the improved cylinder distributes approximately 50 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. This often is the choice of hunters shooting waterfowl close over decoys or pursuing close-quarters upland birds such as quail, grouse and pheasants. Rifled slugs usually perform well with this choke.
  
  
• Cylinder: With no constriction, this choke distributes approximately 40 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's most often used by law enforcement for service shotguns.
  
  
• Skeet: This choke distributes approximately 50 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 25 yards. It's designed to deliver optimum patterns for close-range skeet shooting .
  

Specialty tubes are built for certain types of shot, such as the Hevi-Shot Hevi-Choke Waterfowl Choke Tube
Specialty Tubes

Specialty choke tubes are built for certain types of shot. For example, the steel shot required when hunting waterfowl is harder on shotguns than lead shot and patterns differently than lead. Waterfowl choke tubes are built stronger than traditional choke tubes made only for lead shot. They also are built so steel shot, which doesn't pattern as well as lead shot, will hold a tighter pattern. There also are specialty tubes made specifically for use with Hevi-Shot, tungsten and other materials.


Skeet and trap shooting enthusiasts often use high-quality specialty tubes as well. They know a quality choke tube can increase a shotgun's effective range, and a strong, well-built choke tube also protects the gun barrel and, in some cases, helps reduce gun-barrel stress caused by heat. When a tournament is on the line, skeet and trap shooters want the edge they gain when using a good choke tube.


Several choke-tube companies also make specialty choke tubes for the growing predator-hunting market. These are constructed especially for use with large shot pellets such as buckshot favored by those who hunt coyotes, bobcats and other large predators. Some companies claim their predator-hunting tubes consistently hold tight patterns to 70 yards.



RedHead® high-quality stainless steel choke tubes
Benefits of Choke Tubes

 

[peterk1234]

Thank you for the info. As I have thumbed through some articles, some folks had made comments that their gun with a certain choke patterned below the sight line, or low and right, etc. Seems like an odd problem. Am I wrong to think that a choke tube is conical, and should it not just compress the shot and continue in the direction it was pointed (other than the balls banging off each other)? What would cause a choke to push the shot in a different direction? I apologize for all the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.

 

[guyfromohio]

I really wouldn't overthink it. All guns will pattern slightly differently. Best to see what yours does on paper.

 

[red rick]

A lot of the new shotguns come with shims to adjust the point of impact if needed .

 

[kudu]

some folks had made comments that their gun with a certain choke patterned below the sight line, or low and right, etc. Seems like an odd problem. Am I wrong to think that a choke tube is conical, and should it not just compress the shot and continue in the direction it was pointed (other than the balls banging off each other)? What would cause a choke to push the shot in a different direction?

On a rare occasion, a tube can be flawed from the factory, with a slight yaw or oblong spot in the choke, it might not be noticeable to the naked eye. I have come across one myself years ago before there were too many makers of choke tubes. I only know of 2 others from people that shoot at my gun club, one was a factory tube fro a Browning, and another was an after-market premium tube for a Beretta. I would not worry about it for your use, chances are probably less that .01% you would ever encounter one. I figure with the 75-80 choke tubes I have for different guns that I had bad luck even from 25 years ago having a bad one.

 

[cdb1]

Thank you for the info. As I have thumbed through some articles, some folks had made comments that their gun with a certain choke patterned below the sight line, or low and right, etc. Seems like an odd problem. Am I wrong to think that a choke tube is conical, and should it not just compress the shot and continue in the direction it was pointed (other than the balls banging off each other)? What would cause a choke to push the shot in a different direction? I apologize for all the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.

I could be barrel alignment but usually it is fit. That’s why fit is so important in a shotgun. Which is the main reason I don’t have a Beretta. I like them, want to own one, have owned two but they just don’t fit me. As a consequence I don’t shoot them very well. And shims are not the end all be all. If fit is not off by too much then shims will do the job. But if fit is too far off shims will help but won’t get you where you need to be, which is the position I’m in with Berettas.

A professional stock fitter can also bend a wood stock which is what would have to happen if you bought a V3, because they don’t come with shims. The cost would be prohibitive too, at least for me.

There also are a very few people that can somehow adjust to a shotgun and shoot any of them well even if fit is way off. I have neighbor who is that way, the only one I’ve seen having that unique ability. People with that ability are very few and far between.

 

[jmr40]

The choke tube determines the pattern you get. Barrel length has nothing to do with it, although traditionally shorter barrels have had more open chokes. But with interchangeable tubes it doesn't matter.

Barrel length determines balance and swing, and to a minor degree velocity of the shot. I wouldn't let that be a factor in my decision. A longer barrel will be smoother for longer passing shots since the weight is farther away, but they get in the way in brush more easily. A good choice for long range waterfowl or dove. Shorter barrels come up quicker and are better for quick point shooting. Think rabbit, quail or other flushing upland game. Most of the guys into playing clays games tend to go with 28" or even longer barrels. There is a huge difference between a double and a repeater. A double with the same barrel length will be 3-4" shorter and balance differently.

And there is personal preference. I consider 26" on a repeater the best compromise. On a double 28" is about right. You don't see many 24" barrels, but I actually like that length for a lot of my shooting. But you'll probably see more guns with 28" barrels so I'm probably in the minority.

If I could only have one choke tube for everything I'd use IC. I rarely use modified and never full choke. For turkey I pass right over full choke for a dedicated extra full turkey tube. An improved cylinder choke tube gives a wide pattern making close hits easier, and is still good for 20-25 yards for most shooting. The tighter tubes give patterns so tight up close that it is easy to miss and only add about another 10 yards of effective range. And the steel shot I use for waterfowl patterns about one choke size tighter. IC with steel patterns much like Modified with lead, and Modified like Full with lead. Sometimes I may have to pass up some longish shots, but I have a higher percentage of hits at close to medium ranges by using IC.

 

[cdb1]

The choke tube determines the pattern you get. Barrel length has nothing to do with it, although traditionally shorter barrels have had more open chokes. But with interchangeable tubes it doesn't matter.

Barrel length determines balance and swing, and to a minor degree velocity of the shot. I wouldn't let that be a factor in my decision. A longer barrel will be smoother for longer passing shots since the weight is farther away, but they get in the way in brush more easily. A good choice for long range waterfowl or dove. Shorter barrels come up quicker and are better for quick point shooting. Think rabbit, quail or other flushing upland game. Most of the guys into playing clays games tend to go with 28" or even longer barrels. There is a huge difference between a double and a repeater. A double with the same barrel length will be 3-4" shorter and balance differently.

And there is personal preference. I consider 26" on a repeater the best compromise. On a double 28" is about right. You don't see many 24" barrels, but I actually like that length for a lot of my shooting. But you'll probably see more guns with 28" barrels so I'm probably in the minority.

If I could only have one choke tube for everything I'd use IC. I rarely use modified and never full choke. For turkey I pass right over full choke for a dedicated extra full turkey tube. An improved cylinder choke tube gives a wide pattern making close hits easier, and is still good for 20-25 yards for most shooting. The tighter tubes give patterns so tight up close that it is easy to miss and only add about another 10 yards of effective range. And the steel shot I use for waterfowl patterns about one choke size tighter. IC with steel patterns much like Modified with lead, and Modified like Full with lead. Sometimes I may have to pass up some longish shots, but I have a higher percentage of hits at close to medium ranges by using IC.

Yep. I prefer 26”. I never use full, can’t remember the last time I used modified. Been known to use skeet on quail when they are flushing real close. Vast majority of the time I use IC and LM, depending on the shotgun. Tend to get IC patterns with LM in my Browning and Winchester’s. For turkey I have Carlson’s and SumToy turkey chokes.

 

[Picher]

I have shotguns with 21", 26", and 28" barrels. The .21" is on a Rem 12ga 1100 Special Field and it handles well, but isn't a long-shot gun. Barrel length in a semi-auto helps alignment for duck/turkey hunting, since there's no rear sight. It's also about balance. I like my shotguns to be just a little forward-weighted, but not enough to slow the shot. The Special Field balances at the operating handle position, which makes it really fast, and great for woodcock and grouse. In my early shooting days, I did quite a bit of skeet shooting, but now only shoot hand-thrown clays and (mostly) grouse, for birds.

A 28" barreled autoloader seems way too slow to me and it's difficult to manage in bird covers, but helps to align for longer shots on ducks/geese. My O/Us balance at the hinge. I'm a quick-shooter, picking the spot I want to be ahead of a flying bird and, starting at the bird, fire as soon as the bead gets to the spot ahead of it that I think is right. I try to over-estimate the amount of lead needed because if a lead is too short, you only get tail feathers (hardly anyone leads too much). Sustained lead doesn't work as well for me, since grouse and woodcock don't generally fly in a straight line, for long.

Regardless of the shotgun, it needs to come up perfectly aligned as soon as the buttpad hits the shoulder. I even check with my eyes closed, to make sure.

Early season, I usually use Improved cylinder and/or skeet chokes. When the leaves are mostly down, I switch to Improved/modified in my double. (When in doubt, pick the more open choke for your single barreled auto.)

 

[cowboy77845]

Be sure you get a gun that fits and is not too heavy. A friend and I have gone quail hunting for a number of years. He started out using a borrowed gun, then had one of his own gun shipped here to use. He shoots skeet regularly and is a good shot but he consistently missed shots. I loaned him a Benelli that had adjustments pitch and length of pull. It must have fit perfectly because his shooting improved dramatically.