Chronograph Reccomendations?

[Riomouse911]

Hey all,

I am finally going to buy a chronograph so I can see what my loads are really doing.
I have looked at a few, and due to a couple of upcoming tire purchase needs I want to stay in the $125.00 range.

Caldwell? Chrony? What works best for you all?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

This is a copy of a post I just made in another thread but if fits here too.

I didn't buy a chrono until about 7/8 years ago or so. I gotta good deal on a PACT Model 1XP so I bought it. Back then the Retail price was $129 and I paid $109 on sale with free shipping. Nowadays the site and Retail price are still the same.

I like the fact the chrono itself sits on the bench next to you while only the sensors are in harms way. Replacing the sensors costs a lot less than buying a new chrono. (don't ask how I know )

It has no bells and whistles. It doesn't talk to your smart phone. It doesn't have a printer. It is however very reliable and accurate. I tested it against a very high end system and the average differences were insignificant.

If you want a good chronograph it's worth buying, if you want all the bells and whistles you should look elsewhere.

 

[springer99]

My first one(about 35yrs ago) was a real Rube Goldberg with grids mounted on a 6ft. pole and I don't talk about it much. It worked though.
Bought my second chrony about 20yrs ago. The Chrony is a basic F-1 model with no bells and whistles but it still works fine for me. I think I paid about $75 for it at the time. Replaced the 9V battery numerous times but that's about it. It's worked indoors(with some overhead lighting) and outdoors. The software is a bit "archaic" and 1970's like, but it does work.

Spend more than that and you get more convenience and bells and whistles(remote read-out is a great feature). The electronic timing chips used are probably the same in many mfgs. For your budget, you'll find a number of chrony's that will fit the bill.

 

[Klint Beastwood]

Magneto speed will probably get you everything you want with the best value. The sporter is affordable but I would junk the plastic strap fastener and by the metal one

 

[rskent]

I have a Shooting Chrony (the red one). It works well enough for me.

But it is very basic. You shoot through it, read the number, pretty simple.

It is also somewhat of a pain to set up. You need good light, but not too bright.

You also need a fresh battery. With decent lighting and a good battery it is very

reliable and simple to use.

 

[jmorris]

I have a Shooting Chrony that cost me $20 with a coupon out of the paper. It's not the nicest chronograph I have but I have used it more than any of the others. Get a stereo plug (I used an old set of broken headphones) and a momentary push button and you can access the features of the more expensive versions.



It's also worth noting that if you have an overcast day like the one I shot that video, you don't have to mess with the sky screens or position relative to the Sun. Just take it out, turn it on and shoot.

I once needed to chronograph for a science project I was guiding my Brother in law on and It was after dark by the time we reached that point. A sheet of white cardboard and a 90 degree light and we were in business.

 

[luzyfuerza]

My basic Chrony has worked fine for 20 years. I'd buy another if I had to, but the first one keeps ticking along.

I once checked the accuracy against a more expensive brand...the two machines matched within 2 fps on every shot. Good enough for this reloader.

 

[Blue68f100]

I have the Competition Electronics with the blue tooth. It's been a good unit for the price I paid for it. The blue tooth adds to the cost of the unit but sure makes it convenient. My neighbor has the Crony and dealing with the cable is a PITA.

 

[Hanshi]

You probably can't go wrong with any of them. I bought an Oehler over 29 years ago and love it.

 

[hdwhit]

I have a 20+ year old Shooting Chrony.

It has worked quite well for me.

• When the plastic skyscreens deteriorated from being stored for decades, I went to using replacements cut from a milk jug backed by adhesive labels.
  
• When the rods that hold up the skyscreens eventually succumbed to "lead poisoning", I went to using wooden shish-k-bob skewers and they've worked great.

The Shooting Chrony, Caldwell, PACT, Magnetospeed or Competition Electronics units all work the same way and I think you would end up being satisfied with pretty much any unit you get that has the "bells and whistles" that you feel you need.

 

[Klint Beastwood]

Oehler is def the standard for a light chrono.

 

[hdwhit]

Riomouse911 wrote:
I am finally going to buy a chronograph so I can see what my loads are really doing.

Do make sure you understand what you are buying before you put down your money and end up frustrated.

All light-sensing chronographs use an electronic timer and a pair of light sensors. When the bullet passes over the first sensor, the sensor detects the decrease in light and starts the timer. When the bullet passes over the second sensor, that one stops the timer. Since the sensors are a fixed distance apart, the chronograph computes the velocity from the lapsed time.

Everything is, of course, dependent on the timer circuit being correct. That is, when it counts off 350 milliseconds, it needs to have really been 350 milliseconds and not 348 or 352 since that would mis-state the velocity. The timers are, however sensitive to their power supply and temperature, so you just installed a fresh battery and the temperature exactly the same as it was in the factory on the day the timer was assembled, the number that appears on your display will be WRONG.

Let's say you loaded up 5 rounds according to your manual that are supposed to deliver 2800 fps and you go to the range with your chronograph and get 2720, 2715, 2725, 2606 and 2723 fps. Your first thought is that the load didn't perform as it was supposed to and you're going to start tearing your hair out looking for a reason why you were 80 fps low. The answer is that the test done in the manual and the one you just shot were under different conditions. If you had been expecting 2800 fps and the chronograph had said 1500 fps, then investigation would be warranted, but in this case you should rejoice that the 80 fps is attributable to the timing circuit and is only a difference of 19 fps or 7/10 of 1% - very consistent performance.

All light sensing chronograph use a similar timer circuit. So two light sensing chronographs set next to each other should yield similar readings. But, since the environmental factors that affect the one chronograph also affect the one next to it, consistency does not mean the readings are correct. It could also mean both units are consistently wrong.

 

[jmorris]

Yes, a man with one clock always knows what time it is, a man with two is never sure.



You take as many chronographs as you want and shoot through them and it's more likely that you won't get the exact same number out of each one, even if they are the same make and model.

That said while they may take a 9 volt battery one of the first things that happens is that goes through a voltage regulator for the electronics so it's not like a pressure gauge and your velocity readings keep changing as your battery goes through life.

In any case you don't want to load by a book to hit a certain number unless all other variables are identical, even then it's a crap shoot. I have seen book data supposedly with the same firearm, bullet, case, powder and charge vary by 200 fps, on the same page.

That doesn't mean the data you collect is useless though. Use them to collect relative data and go from there. If your watch is 5 min fast or slow, don't sweat it, you'll be early or late every day, all day. If your chronograph is 5 FPS off from actual velocity that's about .16667% error. In other words, not that big of a deal .

 

[Toprudder]

For $125 or less, I would look at two. Competition Electronics Pro-Chrono, or the Caldwell chrono. If you have a smartphone supported by the Caldwell, go with that. If you want a chrono that operates standalone, go with the Pro-Chrono, as it will do shot strings and statistics in standalone, while the Caldwell requires a smartphone or iPad.

I have the Caldwell and have been very happy with it. If I had the money, I would get the Labradar, though.

 

[Riomouse911]

Thanks for the replies. I figured chronos are basically mathematical speed traps subject to light issues, and no two are always going to agree, but your detailed explanation really helps with the nitty gritty about their function.

I'll look at those recommended by name and see what deal calls my name.

Thanks!

 

[Dudedog]

I have a Competition Electronics Pro-Chrono and like it.
What I do when chrono testing loads is concentrate on just shooting above the sensors and below the sun screens, accuracy can be tested later.
I just need to be accurate enough to shoot above the chrono not thru it!
Be aware when using scoped rifles what the bullet path close to the barrel will be.


Lots of chronos have died from lead poisoning.
I haven't had to do it but I understand Compt. Electronics will rebuild/replace it for half price if it dies a premature death due to lead ingestion.

I believe the Caldwell will interface with a phone with no extra equipment, (not positive on this don't own one) the Comp. Elect needs either the Bluetooth adapter for a phone or the cabled adapter for a laptop, both are extra $.

I had a Pro Chrono PAL to start off with but it will not interface and has limited function compared to the regular model.
I have the regular Pro Chrono model now with the cabled laptop interface.
Software works on Windows 10 but is kind of old and "clunky"

 

[TheDomFather]

Magneto speed will probably get you everything you want with the best value. The sporter is affordable but I would junk the plastic strap fastener and by the metal one

I have the magneto speed sportster and it works great but I dont think you can use it on a pistol can you?

 

[Klint Beastwood]

I have the magneto speed sportster and it works great but I dont think you can use it on a pistol can you?

Yeah they have adapters to some. I dont know about revolvers, because i dont care about them. I've seen online some creative ways..and after market mounts for handguns. I dont chrono mine anymore.

 

[Toprudder]

I have a Competition Electronics Pro-Chrono and like it.
What I do when chrono testing loads is concentrate on just shooting above the sensors and below the sun screens, accuracy can be tested later.
I just need to be accurate enough to shoot above the chrono not thru it!

I felt the same way at first. What I do now is use a rest, even when shooting a handgun, and that makes it a lot less likely that I will pull a shot and hit the chrono, and it makes is easy to test accuracy at the same time.

I believe the Caldwell will interface with a phone with no extra equipment, (not positive on this don't own one) the Comp. Elect needs either the Bluetooth adapter for a phone or the cabled adapter for a laptop, both are extra $.

Yes, the Caldwell comes with a cable that plugs in the headset jack on the phone. My previous iPhone 4, and now iPhone 6, work without any additional equipment. For the newer iPhones that don't have that jack, there is an adapter available that will make it work. My iPad also works.

 

[Hondo 60]

I have 2.
A Caldwell & I have the Competition Electronics Pro-chrono digital.
The Caldwell kit has everything you need, BUT - parts are NOT available & they won't fix it.

The CE works great & unfortunately I know about about their CS.
(Its GREAT, just wish I didn't have to find out)

Between the two, I'd go with the CE

 

[Mn Fats]

Yes, a man with one clock always knows what time it is, a man with two is never sure.

I love that. I have one "clock", a competition electronics pro chrono and i've compared it with a few shooters' more spendy chrono's. Seems to be on par. Ive also put a .357 mag round through the corner, and it still reads fine.

 

[cfullgraf]

I have the magneto speed sportster and it works great but I dont think you can use it on a pistol can you?

The newer versions are more pistol friendly than the Version 2 Magnetospeed that I have. For rifle, I like the Magnetospeed but attaching the sensor bayonet to the barrel gets to a bit of a pain at times.

I've had three different Chrony's over the the years, two have expired from lead poisoning. With each replacement, I moved up to a fancier model to get more features but the base model provided the information needed to crunch the data manual and saves some money in the process.

45 ACP got one, the other was 204 Ruger. Both rounds do a real number on the sheet metal enclosures of a Chrony. Two excellent examples of "haste makes waste" as both times I was hurrying to get finished before a rain storm got into full swing.

My recommendation is to get a chronograph where the bulk of the electronics are not in harms way of the bullet so when it gets hit, it is cheaper to repair. Otherwise, look at the features that each chronograph within your price range offers and choose the one with the features you want. It will serve you well.

Finally, I know not in the OP's budget but I got a LabRadar chronograph a while ago. While it does have some limitations, the information I am most interested in, muzzle velocity) it works great. I have measured some rifle ammunition out to 100 yards and got good data frpm points down range. I'm not sure how good it is at longer ranges.

The LabRadar is a bit pricey but I am more likely to use it because it is easier to set up and gets reliable data without much effort. I think LabRadar has made some updates that my unit does not have.

 

[luzyfuerza]

Very true:

Yes, a man with one clock always knows what time it is, a man with two is never sure.

In heavy industry, we used to say that if you have one meter measuring something, then its always right. If you have two meters, you have an argument. If you have three, then you have a lawsuit.

 

[TheDomFather]

The newer versions are more pistol friendly than the Version 2 Magnetospeed that I have. For rifle, I like the Magnetospeed but attaching the sensor bayonet to the barrel gets to a bit of a pain at times.

I've had three different Chrony's over the the years, two have expired from lead poisoning. With each replacement, I moved up to a fancier model to get more features but the base model provided the information needed to crunch the data manual and saves some money in the process.

45 ACP got one, the other was 204 Ruger. Both rounds do a real number on the sheet metal enclosures of a Chrony. Two excellent examples of "haste makes waste" as both times I was hurrying to get finished before a rain storm got into full swing.

My recommendation is to get a chronograph where the bulk of the electronics are not in harms way of the bullet so when it gets hit, it is cheaper to repair. Otherwise, look at the features that each chronograph within your price range offers and choose the one with the features you want. It will serve you well.

Finally, I know not in the OP's budget but I got a LabRadar chronograph a while ago. While it does have some limitations, the information I am most interested in, muzzle velocity) it works great. I have measured some rifle ammunition out to 100 yards and got good data frpm points down range. I'm not sure how good it is at longer ranges.

The LabRadar is a bit pricey but I am more likely to use it because it is easier to set up and gets reliable data without much effort. I think LabRadar has made some updates that my unit does not have.

I have been eyeing up that lab radar for a while. Is it worth the money? From what I have seen they run about $500

 

[jmorris]

$560 for the base setup, another $30 on some sort of rechargeable power supply is worth it because they go through batteries faster than a normal chronograph. Depending on what things you play with with subsonic suppressed you might also need the $45 air gun adapter to trigger it.