Clean powder for .44 magnum

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webfox

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Hi all,

I did a quick search, but couldn't find a thread on a clean powder for .44 magnum reloads. I shoot a revolver now, but would like the brass to not be so burned by the time I have to tumble it. Currently I'm using Win296.

I've always shot it through my rifle and never really thought about my cleaning or tumbling time, but it's been on my mind lately.

Can anyone recommend a powder good for both pistol and rifle, .44 mag, that's clean burning, please? If it's not the powder, could it be my brass lube collecting scorches? I've never cleaned my rounds after reloading. Is this something I should do?

Thanks!
 
I load for a relative of the 44 Mag (the 45 Colt) and also prefer clean burning powders. Vihtavuori N330 and 3N37 have both served very well with bullets up to 335 gr out of my Blackhawk. The VV powders are single base and leave very little soot. I also use these powders in 45 ACP, 9x19 and 9x21; in nickel plated cases they leave no residue at all.

You might also want to try N105, which is slower burning and perhaps better tuned to the 44. I have not used it, although I assume it would exhibit similar clean burning properties.

I have found the spherical powders to be particularly sooty.
 
Problem is that W296/H110 is one of the better full house 44 mag powders out there. The soot on the brass will cause no problems ... may even make sizing easier. I hope that you are not using less than recommended loads with W296/H110 that can be a no no.
If you are using cast bullets then the lube could well be the guilty party.

Jimmy K
 
N-110 is about as clean as it gets. (I bet N-105 is too though)


Burnt cases is more from lack of pressure than a "dirty" powder.
 
I agree with about all the responses here. In my .44 mags, nearly all the powders burn clean if you have the right pressure. All powders burn dirty if they are below their ideal pressure spot. Most burn clean if you are at the upper ranges of pressure. The problem is maybe you don't want to be at that level for a particular powder. W296 and H110 have always worked well for me for .44 mag when I want them in their desired role. If I want a bit less pressure and velocity and recoil, I use a different powder. AA9 or 2400 do a great job at just a bit less pressure than W296.

Going to a bit faster powder like Universal or True Blue gives great results for a bit less velocity. Just stick to the higher weights and they will burn very clean.

And I really really like VV N330 for my Colt .45, works pretty good for the .44 mag too. But VV N340 is superb in the .44 mag for the medium loads.

If you don't like soot, just stick to the upper range of recommended powder charges.
 
If you want a different powder than W296/H110 but don't want to sacrifice performance give 4227 a try. It's cleaner than W296 but still a full power powder.
 
Great idea ArchAngel. I totally forgot about 4227. I was using that one quite a bit a year or so back and kinda forgot about it for now. Lots of times it can nearly equal 296 on the high end but is more forgiving on the low end. I remember reducing it down quite a bit in my .480 Ruger loads to the point where I had a fair amount of unburnt powder, but it didn't make much soot though at that level. It's a pretty old school powder, but it has a lot of great attributes that makes it a flexible tool.
 
Thanks for all the answers!

I never knew that low pressure led to dirty cases. Personally, I've straddle the fence on "enough to get the job done" and "waste not want not". I load to shoot safely, but don't max it out so the brass lasts longer and I get more out of each penny per round.

While I have loaded hot rounds before, it used to be just the .44 mag rifle... you don't shoot 300 yards with it, so I never really saw a difference in most shots. Now that I have the revolver I'm looking for a backup around hunting season. (Wabbit season, duck season, wabbit season, you know... pronoun trouble, and all that. *cheesy grin*)

I'll look into the Vihtavuori and the IMR recommended. I think the only places within an hour of here carry IMR. I may have to check out the gun shows, though I haven't found good prices on reloading supplies lately... nothing I couldn't get online, though the hazmat fees are pretty high to ship.

You folks are great. Thanks for the advice!
 
webfox said:
I never knew that low pressure led to dirty cases. Personally, I've straddle the fence on "enough to get the job done" and "waste not want not". I load to shoot safely, but don't max it out [emphasis added] so the brass lasts longer and I get more out of each penny per round.
Click to expand...
Then you're using the wrong powder.

Try something a little faster-burning, like Herco, Blue Dot, AA#7, or Power Pistol. Herco is really nice with heavy cast bullets.
 
When I said, "max it out", I meant exceptionally powerful loads that stress the firearm and the brass, not normal loads. I don't shoot light, but I don't waste powder. My reloads fall in the factory range of velocity and muzzle energy.
 
You're not listening.

296 and H110 don't really have a range -- you should load them right at the max. You can load them down a little, but they don't burn right. Use a little bit faster powder and load it near maximum and you'll have a good clean and powerful load, and it'll be cheaper too. (And add Alliant 2400 to the list)

You can also try IMR 4227. It is actually slower than 296, but it reduces better, so you have a wider range to work with.
 
Unique and 2400 are two of the best powders I've found for 44mag. Both burn pretty clean for me compared to 4227. I always seem to need to wash a little soot off my hands after time at the range, but that comes with the territory.

-MW
 
W296 is my primary powder for .44 mag, Bluedot is my second most favorite. I don't get quite the accuracy with it in the Redhawk, but it's very efficient getting the same velocities on less powder. I tend to favor Bluedot for lighter bullets in the Redhawk and everything I feed the Desert Eagle.
 
Try something a little faster-burning, like Herco, Blue Dot, AA#7, or Power Pistol.
Click to expand...

I found Blue Dot to be very dirty except when using compressed loads. Then it's very clean. You can only compress so much, that makes them max loads.
 
It seems way back in time, when I used to load 44 Magnum, I might have used Unique, as I also used it for 357.

I remember Unique being a dirty powder.
 
I found Unique a good load,but it burns a little too fast for hotter loads.
Not a good idea for cast lead.It was creating a little leading.I switched to
a slower burning powder.H-110.Much better.
 
We might be discussing two different things here. There is gas blow-by of partially burned powder on the outside of the case where pressure is too low. What I was addressing in my earlier comments was the amount of soot left inside the case, even where there is no blow-by.

In semi-automatics, grimy soot will also collect in the corners of the breechface, feed ramp, etc. My experience has been that the VV powders leave much less caked-on residue.

For this reason I stopped using Unique and Herco, and am in the process of phasing out Blue Dot. These are flake powders.

The spherical powders contain a significant amount of graphite (used in the fabrication process) and leave even more residue. Just something to consider when selecting propellants.
 
If this relates to a clean burn ? Yes, I worry about half burnt or unburnt powder tying up my gun.
Click to expand...
There's a big difference between clean burning and a complete burn. Unburned kernels is not a good thing. Leaving a lot of soot and carbon deposits, not a big deal. Staining your brass a little bit? Wow, I REALLY have better things to worry about than something that the tumbler takes care of anyway.

Shooting is dirty. Get used to it. I am one that does not clean their guns every time they shoot. I clean them when they need it. I simply wipe them off after shooting. I use Unique, 2400 and Titegroup almost exclusively but more Unique than anything. It never occurred to me to worry or complain about the residue or the smoke, most of which is from the cast bullet lube.
 
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