Clean your carry gun! and change out your ammo.

[JTQ]

So, You're talking about using the wrong lube? Bicycle vs caterpillar tractor lube?
Not about lube made for handguns?
Just me asking. The best way to learn.

As an example, Wilson Ultima Lube II lubricants are all made for guns, but they come in different viscosities. From thinnest to thickest, there is the Lite Oil, Oil, Universal, and Grease. Wilson Ultima Lube II Grease, by the way, is a pourable product.

Wilson recommends their Grease, only for rifles and carbines. Not for handguns.

While the rest of their lubricants are recommended for handguns, they all have have temperature range recommendations, and they recommend their Lite Oil for their 9mm 1911's.

Wilson Ultima Lube II https://shopwilsoncombat.com/OIL-ULTIMA-LUBE-II-4-OZ-BOTTLE/productinfo/577-4/

 

[Alllen Bundy]

...Relative to other defensive rounds, a 9mm is a low recoiling round. Slowing the slide on an already low recoiling round can cause extraction/ejection problems....

Which is why I not only keep my breech face clean, but also wet sand and polish the breech face smoother, polish the left adjacent wall to the breech face and polish the underside of the extractor claws in my P365 and P365XL. The polishing measurably reduced the friction of chambering a round from the magazine and gunpowder residue on the breech face measurably increased the friction.

Heavy lubes can slow the movement of parts, particularly a slide.

Not all grease is created equal. It's difficult to even call some of the semi-fluid synthetic gun greases "grease" in the traditional sense. A low temperatures synthetic grease will often have lower viscosity than petroleum oil.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I am going to argue that carrying chambered or unchambered is safer than chambering a round every day.

That would depend upon your pistol and how you chamber a round. I can safely manually chamber the first round with my P365 and P365XL. Bullet setback does not occur while manually chambering a P365 so I never need to keep track of which rounds have been chambered and which have not. I also shoot off every round in the magazine in the pistol at the range, and I always manually chamber the first round.

Fire can ignite the gunpowder in a chambered round and fire the bullet full force. So it's not a good idea to leave an unattended pistol chambered unless there is some kind of bullet stop to prevent the bullet from flying off. I built a bullet stop into my fanny pack holster partially for this reason. I also modified the retention system in my fanny pack holster to increase the retention so much that it would be very difficult for a young child to remove the pistol from the holster.

 

[Mark_Mark]

All I want to know is why you would unload your carry gun if your in the house then put it in a safe?

incase!

 

[C0untZer0]

I think I'll just keep doing what I'm doing.

 

[dodo bird]

That would depend upon your pistol and how you chamber a round. I can safely manually chamber the first round with my P365 and P365XL. Bullet setback does not occur while manually chambering a P365 so I never need to keep track of which rounds have been chambered and which have not. I also shoot off every round in the magazine in the pistol at the range, and I always manually chamber the first round.

Fire can ignite the gunpowder in a chambered round and fire the bullet full force. So it's not a good idea to leave an unattended pistol chambered unless there is some kind of bullet stop to prevent the bullet from flying off. I built a bullet stop into my fanny pack holster partially for this reason. I also modified the retention system in my fanny pack holster to increase the retention so much that it would be very difficult for a young child to remove the pistol from the holster.

You got me on “if a fire happens”. Carry however you desire.

 

[aaaaa]

Fire can ignite the gunpowder in a chambered round and fire the bullet full force. So it's not a good idea to leave an unattended pistol chambered unless there is some kind of bullet stop to prevent the bullet from flying off. I built a bullet stop into my fanny pack holster partially for this reason. I also modified the retention system in my fanny pack holster to increase the retention so much that it would be very difficult for a young child to remove the pistol from the holster.

So I get that if your house is on fire and a loaded gun is in the drawer, enough heat can ignite the gunpowder (similar to a cook off from a overly hot barrel) and fire the chambered round (and explode those in the magazine). So I guess an appropriate response is to ensure all loaded guns are pointed in a direction that will not cause someone to be shot. But whats about the gun in your fanny pack? How would that go off by a fire? And what is a "bullet stop"?

 

[Alllen Bundy]

And what is a "bullet stop"?

Bullet Stop for Holster
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/bullet-stop-for-holster.900007/

This bullet stop is made from 7 layers of aluminum totaling 1/2" thick. A 9 mm bullet is barely capable of penetrating a 1/4" of aluminum. The first 3 layers are designed with space behind them with the intent that the bullet will punch through and/or severely deform the 1st 3 layers of aluminum thereby trapping the bullet and preventing it from going sideways. This bullet stop is mounted inside my fanny pack holster frame.

But whats about the gun in your fanny pack? How would that go off by a fire?

If I'm pocket carrying with my P365 I'll be leaving my P365XL inside the fanny pack inside my home. If my home caught on fire and ignited the bullet inside the firing chamber while I'm not there, the bullet stop mounted inside the fanny pack would stop the bullet.

 

[SP5]

Powder as in talcum powder? I never have any random powder in mine lol

 

[aaaaa]

That bullet stop would be good for appendix carry and I would want a blast shield to protect the goods.

 

[bnolsen]

Or you can hedge your bet and clean your pistol in order to give you every possible advantage and eliminate any potential problems, no matter how small.

Who said the pistol isn't clean? Last time I checked a bit of lint inside the holster doesn't cancel out any tetra grease on the high wear points inside the pistol. Of course it you are talking revolver the game is different and that lint might kill the action. There's that one Mac video where he shot his lightly pocket linted revolver and the action was clearly struggling.

 

[buck460XVR]

Frankly, I don't think that the lesson here is to clean the gun or change out the ammo frequently--although those are both good principles. I think there are two lessons here:

1. Don't eject and rechamber rounds unnecessarily. If bullets are backing out, they are probably setting back as well.

2. If you're going to bet your life on your reloads, make sure you reload ammo that's at least as good as the factory does, and that includes things like taking any necessary steps to make sure bullets don't back out in the magazine, as well as any other bizarre failures that a handloader might not think of but a factory might realize is a concern.

^^^ This

 

[jmorris]

After 12 months of not cleaning and only changing the chambered round every few weeks.

I think it would be good advice to put more than 1 mag through your carry pistol each year. Certainly takes more than that to remain proficient.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I think it would be good advice to put more than 1 mag through your carry pistol each year. Certainly takes more than that to remain proficient.

probably!

 

[Alllen Bundy]

Who said the pistol isn't clean?

My response was to a post where the person indicated there was in fact dust and lint.

Also, the phrase cleaning your gun also implies relubrication after cleaning, or relubrication from a CLP product. And that can often prevent corrosion of metal parts. Cleaning your gun again might also remove something that you missed during your last cleaning. Or you may discover an internal problem that you didn't realize was present. Cleaning your gun couldn't hurt and might help.

Finding potential problems before they become actual problems is what being proactive is all about.

 

[Mark_Mark]

My response was to a post where the person indicated there was in fact dust and lint.

Also, the phrase cleaning your gun also implies relubrication after cleaning, or relubrication from a CLP product. And that can often prevent corrosion of metal parts. Cleaning your gun again might also remove something that you missed during your last cleaning. Or you may discover an internal problem that you didn't realize was present. Cleaning your gun couldn't hurt and might help.

Finding potential problems before they become actual problems is what being proactive is all about.

do you guy lube after CLP?

 

[bnolsen]

Pistols get dusty and linty when sitting in a holster on the belt day after day. For a semi auto that condition should NEVER cause it to malfunction unless the pistol itself is defective. For a revolver it's a different story.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

do you guy lube after CLP?

I never use a CLP product.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I never use a CLP product.

I’m on my 1st bottle. Was a Hoppie guy forever

 

[21H40]

do you guy lube after CLP?

The whole point to the L is so I don't have to think about lubrication. BreakFree CLP was all I used for rifles and handguns in the Army

 

[Alllen Bundy]

The whole point to the L is so I don't have to think about lubrication. BreakFree CLP was all I used for rifles and handguns in the Army

The problem is that the C and P degrades the performance of the L, and the C only partially cleans. Separate cleaning and lubrication operations are superior. Just not as convenient as a CLP. As I remember it there is the Right way, the Wrong way, and the Army way. I'll stick with the Right Way, thank you very much!

 

[Mark_Mark]

I’m just squeeze some Remoil on it! 2 seconds task

 

[aaaaa]

So far I tend to use Gun Scrubber and follow that up with Lucas gun oil.

 

[21H40]

The problem is that the C and P degrades the performance of the L, and the C only partially cleans. Separate cleaning and lubrication operations are superior. Just not as convenient as a CLP. As I remember it there is the Right way, the Wrong way, and the Army way. I'll stick with the Right Way, thank you very much!

I'm less bothered that CLP doesn't do each thing as well as taking three specialized products does. I'm not looking for 100% efficacy with this. I need sufficient CLP for my CCW tool to function. Some of the people posting on this thread must spend four or five hours a week maintaining their CCW with all the detailed cleaning, shooting and loading described. My CCW is a tool that must be durable and dependable. I don't want anything so sensitive that it can't work without such dedicated treatment.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I need sufficient CLP for my CCW tool to function.

I live where the winter temperatures can go sub zero for a month and a half at a time. I use the best synthetic lube that is available to insure that my pistol will operate in any temperature condition. The last thing I would want is something that might degrade the performance of the lubrication.

When I clean my P365 series pistols, I completely disassemble them, which is very easy to do. I then clean, relube, and reassemble. I can do it blindfolded. No big deal unless you are not mechanically inclined. If you are not mechanically inclined, or have a pistol that is very complex and not easy to disassemble and reassemble, I could understand why you might want to use a CLP.