Cleaning bead-blasted stainless

[Beatnik]

I'm fairly new to wheelies and I need some cleanup advice here.
I bought a used stainless GP100 and recently put about 50-60 rounds through it.
Now I've got burn marks all over it from the flash.

The place I bought it from had stripped it down and bead blasted the entire thing in order to cover up scratches on the finish.

Since it's not polished, the burn marks aren't coming off all too easily. I can sit and rub and rub and rub and rub with a cloth and get most of it, but not all. Plus, that's not going to work around the forcing cone or other small areas that need cleaning.

I was thinking of using a brass wire brush. Anyone know if this is a bad idea? I figured I'd start with under the top strap and see if it affects the finish first.

Any other ideas? Like maybe scotchbrite?

 

[JoeHatley]

Get a "Lead Remover" cloth and the burn marks will rub off pretty easily. A brass brush, used moderately, will not harm the finish.

Good Luck...

Joe

 

[.41Dave]

I would not recommend lead remover cloth. If you do use it, be VERY careful with it, as it will leave shiny spots on your bead blasted gun if you get even a little bit vigorous with it.

 

[Ralph Bryant]

Break-Free CLP

 

[Walkalong]

Let Slip 2000 Carbon Killer do the hard part for you.

 

[Stainz]

Harbor Freight, and other sources, carry a three toothbrush-like assortment for a buck or two - often on sale for half price. It includes a brass/bronze. nylon, and a SS wire brush. Put the SS brush somewhere else - for cleaning bbq grates, etc - not revolvers! The brass/bronze wire is great for cleaning those carbon build-up areas. Use the nylon brush to deliver/distribute Hoppes from the bottle to the revolver's nasty areas. Allow time - 10+ minutes - for it to 'soak' - keep it wet by re-wetting it. Use the brass brush for some 'help' - but understand, the Cu in the brush's brass will turn the follow-up wipes blue. Still, a bit of elbow grease will help - then wipe it dry. If the Hoppes didn'y work to your expectations, use Breakfree/CLP - and repeat - including allowing time to soak.

The remaining discoloration may have to be polished off with tube paste metal polish, like Semichrome or Flitz. This will slick-up the metal, but, as most buildup is on the cylinder's exit face, it shouldn't be a problem. After you are finished 'cleaning' the exterior - go to work on the chambers and barrel bore, removing any wayward polish which found it's way into a bore. Use a properly sized chamber brush, too - in bronze (Brownell's, etc.). That is of the utmost importance when you shoot short cases in long case chambers - it really cleans the crud ring. I can usually clean 1-2 revolvers during a 1 hr TV show, while seated on an older black leather sofa - with the work towels alongside, and the tub containing supplies, etc, on the coffee table. Wear safety glasses - mine are full lens reading glass diopter (magnifiers) - the brass/bronze wires can come off (break) as the brush exits a tight spot (bore) and they head for your eye(s).

Stainz