Cleaning flash holes.

AJC1

AJC1

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Jan 14, 2020
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St Marys Georgia
I'm pretty convicted that getting the brass boogers out of the flash hole is probably one of the easiest ways to get better consistent ignition. On good drilled brass its not a huge factor, but overall the tool is cheap and the process is easy and fast.... the pile out of my Winchester 357 mag brass is significant.
 
cfullgraf said:
There is a reaming tool available the removes any chips from the inside of the flash hole. One for small primers one for large.

It makes the flash hole uniform from inside the case.
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This. I’ve been deburring flash holes and reaming them to uniform size for years.
If you look closely, most are no where near circular. Most are actually elliptical.

And then you can go for uniform depth of the primer pockets. You’d be shocked at the difference in depth of primer pockets and size and thickness of primer cups. Yes, there are guys that actually measure this stuff.
 
I do my rifle brass that I need for accurate loads. I have never done it with pistol brass. Heck I don't even clean the flash holes before priming pistol brass. Get 8 or 9 reloads out of Starline .357 brass...
 
I use an ultrasonic cleaner which cleans the flash holes of all crud and carbon. Then I run them through my tumbler with Lizard beading (super fine ground walnut shells) and they do not clog the flash holes like standard walnut shell media. They come out like they just came from the factory.
 
HKGuns said:
I have tested this and there is no evidence doing this improves accuracy in rifles, let alone pistols.

If it did, I would do it, but it doesn't. Your doing it bothers me not, so continue.
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Ha ,glad you not bothered. Don't compete, don't shoot long range, don't pretend I can. Just load and shoot. Never saw crud building up. Brass is like a good engine. Gets a layer of carbon blows out the rest. If like new brass makes some happy it's their biz. Opinion page and they all count.
 
Pocket pressure from just the primer firing is 23,000 PSI.
https://discover.dtic.mil/

Looks nice, when done. My Lyman tool. Not easy to set up a .010" deep cut, seems to remove most of the burr. A uniform diameter of the hole would seem to be a good thing.
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243winxb said:
Looks nice, when done. My Lyman tool. Not easy to set up a .010" deep cut, seems to remove most of the burr.
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A drill bit twisted in your fingers will take off the ugly burr with out cutting in.
 
HKGuns said:
I have tested this and there is no evidence doing this improves accuracy in rifles, let alone pistols.

If it did, I would do it, but it doesn't. Your doing it bothers me not, so continue.
Click to expand...
I don't think it's a key player in accuracy. I think it plays a part in good even ignition for better es/SD numbers. In senerios where ultimate accuracy is in question I think most of the cases being used are drilled vs punched.
 
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243winxb said:
Pocket pressure from just the primer firing is 23,000 PSI.
https://discover.dtic.mil/

Looks nice, when done. My Lyman tool. Not easy to set up a .010" deep cut, seems to remove most of the burr. A uniform diameter of the hole would seem to be a good thing.
index.php
index.php
Click to expand...
How long did it take in setups for those pictures..... very nice...
 
AJC1 said:
I use the redding tool with built in stop. I don't think it even cuts a bevel, not a noticeable one...
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I use the same tools. It does cut a small bevel, just enough to remove the flashing and no more. It's a good tool and gives you options on how you want to set it up. The stop collar on the center drill or the adj neck guide/stop for keeping it square. The neck guides only works if the brass is all trimmed to the same length.

I've had a few pieces of brass it took me along time to get the pin to get into the flash hole. The flashing was so bad the tool had to be perfect aligned for it to go in.
 
I tried uniforming the flash hole back in the day... the Midway tool I had was so horribly designed it would clog with brass after just a few cases, and I would have to dig the brass chunks out with a dental pick. That became a NoGo at this station...

As far as accuracy and consistency goes, if that's what you are going for, there are other steps you would be taking besides reaming the flash hole, so it would be hard to point and say 'yes, this works!' It's very likely a combination of factors.
 
Charlie98 said:
I tried uniforming the flash hole back in the day... the Midway tool I had was so horribly designed it would clog with brass after just a few cases, and I would have to dig the brass chunks out with a dental pick. That became a NoGo at this station...

As far as accuracy and consistency goes, if that's what you are going for, there are other steps you would be taking besides reaming the flash hole, so it would be hard to point and say 'yes, this works!' It's very likely a combination of factors.
Click to expand...
I have the k and m tools for uniforming primer pockets. I look at them in the tool basket and wonder if I should do a batch for testing.... then I might be inclined to toss cases that are to deep. I definitely don't enjoy the extra step. But tell myself it's a one and done thing.
 
MikeInOr said:
If reloading for ultimate accuracy it is fast and easy to uniform the primer holes so why not. If you are reloading for hunting or plinking ammunition it isn't worth the time in my reloading room.
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This sounds a lot like me.

HKGuns said:
I have tested this and there is no evidence doing this improves accuracy in rifles, let alone pistols.

If it did, I would do it, but it doesn't. Your doing it bothers me not, so continue.
Click to expand...

I have too and many rifles lack the accuracy needed to see any difference in the first place (Why I don’) If you do have a rifle that will shoot in the < .3’s. You will notice fewer “flyers” (why I do).
 
AJC1 said:
How long did it take in setups for those pictures
Click to expand...
First Fl size brass, trim,chamfer and deburr. Place cutter in case, turn till no burrs are felt. Now set stop with a feeler gauge to cut .010" deep.

For photos, cut case with a copper pipe tubing cutter. Practice on range brass, before doing my 243 win brass.

Time? Dont remember. This retiree has lots of time to waste, in between doctors appointments.

Just part of Benchrest case prep.
 
243winxb said:
First Fl size brass, trim,chamfer and deburr. Place cutter in case, turn till no burrs are felt. Now set stop with a feeler gauge to cut .010" deep.

For photos, cut case with a copper pipe tubing cutter. Practice on range brass, before doing my 243 win brass.

Time? Dont remember. This retiree has lots of time to waste, in between doctors appointments.
Click to expand...
Oh you cut the case off... I was like wow he got good light in there.... 🤣
 
Lubing, resizing, then tumbling off the lube. Then trimming, champfering, deburring, then reaming or swaging out crimped primers....already has a number of tedious steps. At this point, adding one more step to this process, I don't see any problem with at all. I also believe that if you're going this far, make sure everything else is top-notch as well...... charge weights are all exact, whether your thrower is just that good, or you trickle.
We're talking 1/2 M.O.A. stuff here, and me or my guns ain't that good.......yet.
 
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