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stchman
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Everything I've read is to use the 1K kerosene that is used in heaters, not the stuff from the gas station.
Cleaning guns with Simple Green?
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I cannot verify it but I feel Hoppe's #9 is not the same as it was 30-40 years ago. It smells the same but seems to be "watered" down. They probably had to remove something that was considered carcinogenic.
I have been using Ed's Red for four or five years. Since I use most of the ingredients in my garage, I buy gallon containers and the unit cost gets pretty low.
ColtPythonElite
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My local gas station sells clear K1 kerosene at the pump for about 4 bucks a gallon. It's been working fine in my heaters and Ed's Red for years.
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RON in PA
Member
I can think of only two reasons for using a water based cleaner in firearms, corrosive ammo or black powder. Hoppe's #9 and Breakfree CLP are my gotos and it's mainly CLP for a long time now.
This. Susceptible metals + moisture + Oxygen = corrosion. It's too simple, and cheap, to avoid taking the chance with water based cleaners.
Aragon
member
Detergent (including Simple Green) or soap and water is a good (if not the best way) to remove the corrosive effects of spent black powder. Something like Hoppe's No. 9 or Ed's is not nearly as effective in that application.
Ballistol is by no means a "designer cleaner." It's been around a very long time.
Ballistol is by no means a "designer cleaner." It's been around a very long time.
I use Hoppe's #9, CLP, and GunScrubber and that's it. I've got OCD when it comes to cleaning guns, but the only solution I run out of regularly is GunScrubber. Brake cleaner can work, too, but I'm not sure if it's safe for synthetics.
Aragon
member
They removed the benzene (a known carcinogen) from #9.
MachIVshooter
Member
Simple green and many other household cleaners or automotive degreasers are caustic. When used on ceramic or glass, there is no risk, or when there will be tremendous flushing with water where either the materials are resistant or rust is not a concern.
I use petroleum based cleaners on guns. Sometimes brake cleaner, but the ethanol content of brake or carb cleaner dictates that any parts you cleaned with it should be wiped with oil afterward, as they literally dry out the metal and make it highly susceptible to corrosion (carbon steels, specifically). For instance, I often clean AR bolts and carriers with brake cleaner after scrubbing with hoppes. Once finished, I then spray them with oil, blow it around with compressed air to ensure that every bit of metal is coated, then wipe the excess off.
I use petroleum based cleaners on guns. Sometimes brake cleaner, but the ethanol content of brake or carb cleaner dictates that any parts you cleaned with it should be wiped with oil afterward, as they literally dry out the metal and make it highly susceptible to corrosion (carbon steels, specifically). For instance, I often clean AR bolts and carriers with brake cleaner after scrubbing with hoppes. Once finished, I then spray them with oil, blow it around with compressed air to ensure that every bit of metal is coated, then wipe the excess off.
oneounceload
member
Brake cleaner down the bores of shotguns and choke tube threads, Shooter's Choice for a solvent, RemOil for wiping down, Hoppe's OLD formula grease or RIG for those applications
Rex B
Member
Where do you get the Ed's Red ingredients cheap?
Estate sales. Seriously.
They all have this stuff sitting in the garage, and nobody wants it. I have had them given to me just for asking, as they are considered a liability after the sale is over.
A week ago I tried out an ultrasonic cleaner, using Lymans Sonic cleaner followed by their Sonic Lubricant. It worked so well I ended up cleaning a half dozen guns in a half hour or so. You just pull the grips (if wood) and drop the whole thing in the bath, run it for 4 minutes. Then shake it off, empyt the cleaner and replace with lubricant, and run the gun through it again. Flushes out all the remaining cleaner, and leaves a lubricant/protectant that dries clear.
My beater/yard gun P32 looks new now
Estate sales. Seriously.
They all have this stuff sitting in the garage, and nobody wants it. I have had them given to me just for asking, as they are considered a liability after the sale is over.
A week ago I tried out an ultrasonic cleaner, using Lymans Sonic cleaner followed by their Sonic Lubricant. It worked so well I ended up cleaning a half dozen guns in a half hour or so. You just pull the grips (if wood) and drop the whole thing in the bath, run it for 4 minutes. Then shake it off, empyt the cleaner and replace with lubricant, and run the gun through it again. Flushes out all the remaining cleaner, and leaves a lubricant/protectant that dries clear.
My beater/yard gun P32 looks new now
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jimmyraythomason
Member
Blued guns are accustomed to water. The degrease bath is soapy water. The hot water rinse is...guess. Bluing solutions (most) contain water. The after bluing bath is hot water. The stop bath contains water. Water is not your gun's enemy. Proper drying and lubrication is required....but then, isn't it always? ETA, second favorite to hot soapy water for cleaning is odorless mineral spirits.
Mike OTDP
Member
I use a Simple Green solution for muzzle-loaders, the dry thoroughly and lube with Ballistol. For cartridge guns, Hoppes #9...though I expect to switch to Ballistol when the Hoppes runs out.
Master Blaster
Member
Hoppes MSDS: http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/MSDS_Hoppes_No_9_Solvent.pdf
Hoppes Elite MSDS: http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/MSDS_Hoppes_Elite_Gun_Cleaner.pdf
I find Hoppes elite works very well for cleaning lead and carbon fouling, not as well for shotgun wad fouling.
I use regular Hoppes less as I began to notice it had an effect on my hands dermatitus drying and cracking of the skin, and I could still smell it an hour later (even after cleaning up) so it was in my skin, clothes, and nasal lining, and as the MSDS above shows its really not good for ya... Regular Hoppes has Ammoniated Solvent so it will disolve copper, sweets 7.62 works better and faster on copper.
Simple Green I tried it once on lead it does not clean as well as Hoppes Elite. As far as the water issue goes I dry and use an oil based preservative CLP or EEZox after using Hoppes Elite.
Hoppes Elite MSDS: http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/MSDS_Hoppes_Elite_Gun_Cleaner.pdf
I find Hoppes elite works very well for cleaning lead and carbon fouling, not as well for shotgun wad fouling.
I use regular Hoppes less as I began to notice it had an effect on my hands dermatitus drying and cracking of the skin, and I could still smell it an hour later (even after cleaning up) so it was in my skin, clothes, and nasal lining, and as the MSDS above shows its really not good for ya... Regular Hoppes has Ammoniated Solvent so it will disolve copper, sweets 7.62 works better and faster on copper.
Simple Green I tried it once on lead it does not clean as well as Hoppes Elite. As far as the water issue goes I dry and use an oil based preservative CLP or EEZox after using Hoppes Elite.
isaiahc
Member
KISS (Keep it simple simon)
I'd try it and see how it works.
I had the same question with Thompson bore cleaner on my muzzle loader.. it works good too but it's mostly like water w added rust inhibitor. So you are cleaning with water and a rust inhibitor so the water doesn't rust your barrel.. hmmmm. SO why not just run a hot bath of water and use that??? Hot water evaporates out of the barrel pretty easily with a patch or two to make sure it is dry for sure.
Q. So why buy that white Thompson fluid?
A. Because it is easier. Because you don't have to run a tub of hot water to clean your rifle... just dable some white Thompson juice on it and get it clean that way.
Same logic with the simple green... if you use it and your gun ends up clean I'd keep using it. If you use it and find yourself trying to dry out your barrel or trying to get it cleaner... stick with whatever you used before and remember... running a hot tub of water isn't exactly difficult either...
I'd try it and see how it works.
I had the same question with Thompson bore cleaner on my muzzle loader.. it works good too but it's mostly like water w added rust inhibitor. So you are cleaning with water and a rust inhibitor so the water doesn't rust your barrel.. hmmmm. SO why not just run a hot bath of water and use that??? Hot water evaporates out of the barrel pretty easily with a patch or two to make sure it is dry for sure.
Q. So why buy that white Thompson fluid?
A. Because it is easier. Because you don't have to run a tub of hot water to clean your rifle... just dable some white Thompson juice on it and get it clean that way.
Same logic with the simple green... if you use it and your gun ends up clean I'd keep using it. If you use it and find yourself trying to dry out your barrel or trying to get it cleaner... stick with whatever you used before and remember... running a hot tub of water isn't exactly difficult either...
short barrel
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I love the smell of Hoppe's in the morning. It smells like . . .
dprice3844444
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I have my glocks and stainless ruger old armies. dishwasher works fine, no fire hazard, no bad smells, no damaging the carpet by spilling any on rug, no wasting patches etc.
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stchman
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My thing is is that folks that use Ballistol make it sound like you simple spray on, wipe off, and the firearm is perfectly clean. It supposedly even good for wood as well.
I'm sorry if a substance is good for moisturizing and preserving wood, it can't be the best for removing lead and carbon fouling.
I've tried Ballistol and find it works no better than Hoppe's except costing more money.
ColtPythonElite
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I have Ballistol on my bench. The best thing I have found it for is to shine up the wood and metal on a gun right before carrying it to a gun show to sell.....I have not been impressed with its cleaning, lubing, or rust preventing properties.
Aragon
member
That's not necessarily the case. It's not like the old days where a disinfectant had to physically hurt to be effective. I like Ballistol for two reasons. First, I can wet guns down (particularly BP guns) before leaving the range or ranch and then finish cleaning them at home. I wouldn't do that with Hoppe's. Second, it's not toxic while other cleaners are (or were.)
I notice cowboy action shooters around here wet down their BP firearms between stages to arrest any corrosion (no corrosion when oxygen can't get to the metal.)
MagnumDweeb
Member
My typical cleaning practices are to use Gun Scrubber to loosen the lead fouling, run a bore brush to that effect, and then flush the barrel with really hot water. From there I use a cloth to the gun dry and immediately use lube/protectorant on the gun which I apply manually and wipe in with a rag. I then take out my bore kit and run patches with Hoppes #9 till the patches aren't black anymore. Haven't had any problems with rust since.
Ramone
Member
I use Simple Green and hot water maybe once a year or two. works great when it's gotten good and dirty.
You MUST rinse it completely clean- it will attack anodizing if left too long.
It also strips all the lube away, and requires Oil Buffing to restore the coating.
You MUST rinse it completely clean- it will attack anodizing if left too long.
It also strips all the lube away, and requires Oil Buffing to restore the coating.
Baron66
Member
As hickok45 says, spray it down and let it sit. The dirtier it is the longer you let it sit for.
It's just like soaking dishes. The dirtiest dish will rinse clean if it's been sitting in hot water for long enough.
I've never tried it on lead, but it works very well for carbon removal, general cleaning and even seems to have some mild copper dissolving properties based on the blue I see on patches when I use it as a bore cleaner.
BCRider
Member
Over on a bicycle forum I frequent SG has a strong cult following. But now and then reports leak through about folks that dump their drive chain in a bucket of SG and some water for an overnight soak. If the SG is concentrated enough the next day the surface of the plates is etched lightly.
And I saw this when I used it to clean some motor cycle parts one time. It not only etched the steel items lightly but it did a real number on a couple of bits of alloy.
I finished the rest of the bottle up for household use and have not bought any since.
And I saw this when I used it to clean some motor cycle parts one time. It not only etched the steel items lightly but it did a real number on a couple of bits of alloy.
I finished the rest of the bottle up for household use and have not bought any since.
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