Cleaning/lubrication methodologies thread.

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pippin53

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A poster in the Rifle Country made a thread about using grease in AR-15's, and it got me thinking. A lot of people will say, "I use X cleaner or lubricant," but not why. I figure if we make a in depth thread about why we chose what cleaners, maybe those of us who(like myself) are dumber\less experienced than others can learn from those who have the zen of the firearm.


I'll start off:
1.) Did you choose an all in one cleaner/lubricant/protectant, or are you using separate products?
Separate products. I figure that Jack of All Trades-Master of None applies here.

2.) What products do you use, why, and how?


a.) Cleaner
M Pro-7. I believe this also goes under the name Hoppe's Elite cleaner. I like that it is odorless and non toxic. I purchased a gallon of it, and decanted it into a 2 ounce stopper, and an atomizer. I will get a spray bottle soon. I like to, as per directions, let it soak in to the parts for a few minutes, before cleaning. This seems to work well, removing all/most all residue.

b.) Oil

I use Corrosion-X Marine. I purchased this, as I was looking for the best lubricant I could find. I came across threads mentioning this product, and how it was not only a good lubricant, but also a good protectant. I decided on the Marine version, which was not only available in higher volumes, but was held up to higher testing standards; the corrosion-x for guns is apparently the normal corrosion-x, no need to pay extra for it. I was able to find a gallon on skygeek, and have decanted it into a 2 ounce stopper. I apply with either my finger or a q-tip, or apply directly with stopper. I provides a good balance of viscosity, in my opinion. Has a licorice-y smell, not unpleasant. Have not diluted with other oils, but might consider it, if other people have had good success with it.
c.) Protectant
See above. Corrosion-X, as far as I can tell, is the best oil protectant on the market. It is safe on wood and leather, as well, and penetrates into the metal, protecting against corrosion.
d.) Grease
Aeroshell 33ms. I like greases. I like my lubrication to stay where I put it when I need it to.
I am especially enamored of the idea of the Swiss K31 rifles, where the swiss soldiers would clean the rifle with a grease called "waffenfett." Now, there is no need to hold waffenfett as some magical mystery oil, just as some people hold lubriplate as the end-all-be-all in Garand circles. Modern greases should be better than those that came before, in my opinion. In searching for an ideal grease, I came across Aeroshell 33ms. It is lithium based(not clay), which is supposedly ideal for firearms. No graphite, so you don't need to worry about it reacting with aluminum. Molybdenum disulfite is another ingredient firearms are supposed to like. It is a milspec certified grease for harsh conditions, far exceeding the old Garand era certifications, which had to do with the grease washing off. I have no idea about the mechanics behind it, but it seems the ideal grease on the market at the moment for firearms, from what I have searched. Any other good greases(Tetra comes to mind), we should compare it with? I apply with q-tips. I also got this from skygeek.
e. Deep Cleaning/Copper Fouling
Don't have one. I don't know the ins and outs of copper fouling, and don't know it I need one, but it seems like a good idea, down the road.
f. Blackpowder/Corrosive Primer cleaning
Water. Only corrosive thing I shoot is mosin ammo, and I flush the barrel with water, then clean normally with M Pro-7.
3. How do you clean your rifles?
I disassemble the rifles, soak the parts that need cleaning in M Pro-7, and clean with paper towels and brushes and q-tips. For the barrel, I use a boresnake. I think I need to use rods, and maybe switch to shop towels. Lubricate(oil barrel and grease wear points and rails), reassemble.


How does everyone else clean, and what do they use? I am sure some people will immerse their parts, some people likely heat their parts, some people might do more regular deeper cleaning, etc. What and, more importantly, why, you clean your way?
 
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Hoppes and generic Auto Transmission Fluid.

Occasionally a bit of Sweet's 7.62 if I want to go after copper.

It's a firearm, not a space shuttle. All it has to be is free of debris, reasonably well shielded against moisture, and lubricated enough to work reliably.

A $4 quart of ATF will do all of those jobs very well.

If a manufacturer or service manual requires a specialized lube or grease, of course use it. 99% of firearms have no such requirements. They'll work if you lube them with bear grease or motor oil or a specialized gun lube costing $30 an ounce.
 
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I used to obsess. I realized that A: I was probably over cleaning, And B: I will never run my guns as hard as machines that seem to get by with much less lower-quality lube.

For rifles which I expect to be very precise, I will still do the whole drill with Hoppe's and brushes and patches. For everything else it's CLP and........CLP. Sometimes I will use some 5w30 synthetic, and every once in a while someone offered me a sample of the latest Miracle Lube, but maybe I am just ignorant, I haven't ever seen a difference that justifies the higher prices.
 
Between Sweets 7.62 for copper, G96 for tough cleaning, Breakfree CLP for light cleaning, and Rem Oil for narrow spots I don't need anything else.
 
1.) Did you choose an all in one cleaner/lubricant/protectant, or are you using separate products?
Separate products. There is NO such thing as a all in one product.

2.) What products do you use, why, and how?

a.) Cleaner
50/50 mix of Kroil/Hoppe's #9. Cleans the best and the deepest of everything I've used. The M Pro-7 was close runner up, it's just so prohibitively expensive if you do much shooting. My own company so I can buy the Kroil by the gallon, then I buy the two quart packs on sale of Hoppe's #9 (stock up when on sale). Mix into smaller container.

b.) Oil
I use Corrosion-X, Amsoil MP and some Tri-Flow.
c.) Protectant
Corrosion-X.
d.) Grease
Amsoil Synthetic Spray Grease.
e. Deep Cleaning/Copper Fouling
50/50 mix of Kroil/Hoppe's #9
f. Blackpowder/Corrosive Primer cleaning
IPA. Repeat. Then 50/50 mix of Kroil/Hoppe's #9.
3. How do you clean your rifles?
I disassemble - field strip, soak the smaller parts that need cleaning in 50/50 mix of Kroil/Hoppe's #9. Brushes and wood stick gun q-tips, foam padded variety as well. For the barrel, I use use rods, bushes (nylon and bronze). Lubricate(light oil barrel and grease wear points and rails), reassemble. Wipe down as necessary.

My guns are pretty much spotless. Maybe a little nuts, but it's my hobby, my relaxing time. If I found rust on something, I probably would go nuts. :D A little left over carbon found, on say a AR-15 bolt carrier, well next cleaning that sucker gets the long soak. :neener:
 
Hoppes and generic Auto Transmission Fluid.

Occasionally a bit of Sweet's 7.62 if I want to go after copper.

It's a firearm, not a space shuttle. All it has to be is free of debris, reasonably well shielded against moisture, and lubricated enough to work reliably.

A $4 quart of ATF will do all of those jobs very well.

If a manufacturer or service manual requires a specialized lube or grease, of course use it. 99% of firearms have no such requirements. They'll work if you lube them with bear grease or motor oil or a specialized gun lube costing $30 an ounce.
I have to give my +1 here. I spent decades rotating between the latest and greatest (and often most expensive) cleaners and lubricants. The majority of them seem to work about the same.

I have used some citrus type cleaners like prolix that I really liked but it was more the fact that they didn't have much smell and didn't leave a lot of residue more than anything.

These days, I use eds red. If it is a gun I use regularly and clean regularly, I just use some patches to leave a trace of it on the moving parts when i am done. If it is going into storage, I use REM oil.

I think the gun cleaner and lube manufacturers have done a great job marketing their products. The reality is that just about any lube made for metallic moving parts will work as long as it is not corrosive and does not carbonize at moderate temperatures (600-700 degrees). I think this is why things like ATF have become more popular.
 
Oil seems to be oil. I move around between my motor oil concoction (50 synthetic/50 Marvel's Mystery Oil), CLP, and Remoil.

Protectant seems to be a different matter. For that I use EEZOX. EEZOX doesn't make it inside my guns much. I use it on padlocks, carbon steel iron sights and other metal that is going to get wet.

Grease. I have the last tiny lead tube of Gunslick in North America (I imagine to myself) and I use that on glock slides and rails and mixed with CLP on the barrel. I also have Tetra and use it for same.
 
1.) Did you choose an all in one cleaner/lubricant/protectant, or are you using separate products?
Was using an all-in-one, but am very willing to use a separate lubricant.

2.) What products do you use, why, and how?

a.) Cleaner
Am currently testing Ed's Red without acetone. Was using CLP before that, and Hoppe's #9 before that.

b.) Oil
Currently looking into that. If I split away from CLP and use Ed's Red, I might mix up a batch of just the ATF and Kerosene components of ER and test that. One lube I like is FP-10, but it is a penetrant, so I generally do not use it any more. I am seriously wondering about trying Mobil 1.
c.) Protectant
Sheath. Applied only a few times a year. Love that stuff.
d.) Grease
Do not currently use grease, but am not against it. I AM totally against over-lubing with anything.
e. Deep Cleaning/Copper Fouling
Don't have one. Might try acetone on metal parts if I ever needed to.
f. Blackpowder/Corrosive Primer cleaning
Do not shoot BP or corrosive primers.
3. How do you clean your rifles?
I am liking the bore snake more and more, and it will likely be my first choice for rifles. Pistols still use a cleaning rod, patches, and brush if needed; shotguns use a cleaning rod, nylon brush, and swab pushing a patch.

Tried paper towel patches and LOVE them. I use Viva Tough-When-Wet paper towels cut to size.
 
Shell Aeroshell 33MS 5% molybdenum disulfide aircraft grease and Shell Aeroshell Fluid 18 aircraft/machinery mineral oil with corrosion inhibitors makes my bolt guns happy and slick even in snow. I use the same grease on autos and rotate my oils with flavors of the week..froglube, fireclean, etc.

Cleaning is done with a heated ultrasonic bath of a Simple Green line formulated for aircraft use (aluminium safe)

In my experience, keeping things lubed and clean is more important than the slight perceived benefits with various products and brands. I wouldn't hesitate to wipe something down with motor oil if it was handy.
 
I use hoppe's solvent and rem oil for nearly everything. I bought one bottle of the remington copper and lead fouling remover and I use it after non-jacketed rounds.

I use clp and remington dri lube for my AR.

Everything gets thoroughly cleaned after each outing. I used to enjoy it more back when i first got into it. Now it's more of a chore and I tend to push it off for a couple days.
 
Hoosier

[Grease. I have the last tiny lead tube of Gunslick in North America (I imagine to myself) and I use that on glock slides and rails and mixed with CLP on the barrel.]

I've got the 2nd to last tube of Gunslick, almost full. Let me know if you run out!
 
Bore tech eliminator and MPro 7 to clean, Hoppe's or CLP to lube. Once in a great while some Ford Teflon blue grease on the slide. Normally just oil.
 
A wise gunsmith once told me that more people damage their guns from over cleaning or simply just cleaning than they do by actually shooting them. So, there you have it. I used to be one of these that did a detail clean every time I took mine out but have since started cleaning at only around 400 rounds for everything from AR's to bolt guns.

As far as cleaning, protection, and lube goes I usually use:

Hoppe's for cleaning, Rem Oil for protection, gun grease for lubing or long term protection. I am also an advocate from the ATF and Synthetic oil concoction which I have used as well. However, it can tend to drip nice red stuff on some things you might now want it on. So, keep that in mind. I would say that most modern day lubes are probably very similar in characteristics and I doubt most of us run our guns hard enough to ever really worry about viscosity breakdown and all of that junk.
 
Like others here, I've tried everything over the years.

I've come back to Hoppes #9, Breakfree CLP and RemOil ... Although, whatever is available at my LGS, Wal-Mart or Sportsman's Warehouse at what seems to be a reasonable price I'll pick up if I need something ...

I've used Slip 2000, Kroil, Sweets, Gunscrubber, FP-10, M-Pro 7, FrogLube, all of which seem to work well, but over the years, I've simply never found anything that seems to be that much better than the old basics. I think it all boils down to just never letting your barrels and actions get too fouled with copper, lead or carbon ...
 
I use Hoppes or Breakfree CLP and generic ATF. It's been working fine for a lot of years.
 
Hoppes and generic Auto Transmission Fluid.

Occasionally a bit of Sweet's 7.62 if I want to go after copper.

Same here, plus I got a bunch of Eesox, rem oil and Gun lube free
from a widow who's husband was a mentor of mine.
 
Another vote for Ed's Red...for short to mid-term use, anyway. If it is going to sit for 6 months or more, see below.
c.) Protectant
See above. Corrosion-X, as far as I can tell, is the best oil protectant on the market.
....Almost. Read this:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
And this:
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
My can of Corrosion-X has been retired. If you are local (DFW area) and want a can of the second-best, drop me a pm and come pick it up. :)
If you want the best...read the above threads. It's not easy to find locally, and it's not cheap.
But once you have seen how it works, you may have some difficulty using something else.
Acetone gives Ed's Red a huge boost, but don't get it near polymers and use it in open air, outside.
Acetone is part of the original recipe, and is the way I've been mixing Ed's Red since I started using it, almost three years ago. I use it for cleaning (indoors) about once a week. I also use it on my (polymer) Kahr PM9, P45 and have used it on several other poly guns.
No problems so far. If I drop dead next week...disregard.
But don't hold your breath on that happening... :)
 
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