Cleaning My Old Army
- Thread starter rodwha
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robhof
Member
robhof
If you don't have a manual, you can download one for free from Ruger. It contains an exploded view of the gun and all the parts. It's not that complicated, but many B/p shooters don't break their revolvers down totally but once or twice a year, I do it a little more frequently, but I do it with all my guns(habit). If you run water through it thoroughly and use a heating method; oven on warm or hair dryer to dry it as much as possible and wd40 to displace any residual water, you should be good for quite awhile. My NAA 22 Companion hasn't been taken apart since I got it; over 5 yrs ago and it still shoots fine, I just remove grips and run water through it, a little dish soap and much more water followed by a few minutes with a compressor spray of air and then copious wd40. I do break down the snap apart parts and unscrew the nipples to keep them from seizing in place.
If you don't have a manual, you can download one for free from Ruger. It contains an exploded view of the gun and all the parts. It's not that complicated, but many B/p shooters don't break their revolvers down totally but once or twice a year, I do it a little more frequently, but I do it with all my guns(habit). If you run water through it thoroughly and use a heating method; oven on warm or hair dryer to dry it as much as possible and wd40 to displace any residual water, you should be good for quite awhile. My NAA 22 Companion hasn't been taken apart since I got it; over 5 yrs ago and it still shoots fine, I just remove grips and run water through it, a little dish soap and much more water followed by a few minutes with a compressor spray of air and then copious wd40. I do break down the snap apart parts and unscrew the nipples to keep them from seizing in place.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
A very common error I've seen when breaking down an ROA has to do with the Pawl and Pawl spring also known as the hand. If you take the grip frame off and trigger out be sure to pull the pawl spring before you replace the pawl and trigger. Do not replace the pawl spring until after the trigger and pawl are in place. If you disregard this advise you will likely jam the pawl into the pawl spring and jack it up, but good.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
So leave it alone for now?
Nah, Plow ahead forward, with a purpose, just not blind.
rodwha said:
If you aren't comfortable with a clockworks breakdown then leave it alone. If you have had experience with any of the other Colt or Remington clones then you'll find the ROA to be similar if not easier to strip down then reassemble.
There really aren't any issues with springs going "boing" in 50 different directions. Watch this video: Ruger Old Army Disassembly It is rather simple and straighforward.
Thanks for the video link!
I've yet to look for proper screwdrivers. And I don't have a punch.
I didn't get the nipple wrench either, and haven't found a 3/16 nut driver yet, so I bought a 1/4 drive deep socket set to use for now.
Where is a good place to find proper screwdrivers and the punch?
I've yet to look for proper screwdrivers. And I don't have a punch.
I didn't get the nipple wrench either, and haven't found a 3/16 nut driver yet, so I bought a 1/4 drive deep socket set to use for now.
Where is a good place to find proper screwdrivers and the punch?
You can get a good set of punches from Sears or any hardware store or big box store.
Gunsmithing screwdrivers - I have two recommendations:
1) Chapman set 8900. It contains a rachet handle that is priceless when removing really stubborn screws and nipples. The bits are frangible, so that the bit will break before the screw head is damaged if the screw is stuck. Small enough that set will fit in a coat pocket (which I've never done, but it will fit in my range bag very nicely). Available from:
Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/510765/chapman-model-8900-27-piece-deluxe-screwdriver-set
Brownell's: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4979/Product/DELUXE-GUN-SCREWDRIVER-SET
and several others.
2) Brownell's Magna-Tip. Bigger set, can be bought in many configurations. Different size handles, magnetic and non-magnetic choices, This is more of a benchtop set but can be bought in small pieces to configure a range bag set. Note they have a Ruger Single Action set consisting of a magnetic handle and 5 bits. Available only from Brownell's:http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=magna+tip+screwdrivers/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=magna_tip_screwdrivers
Neither of those is cheap, but cheap isn't the right answer. Midway has a better range of less expensive sets if $30 is just too much for a good screwdriver set (it's not, but I enjoy spending other people's money).
Gunsmithing screwdrivers - I have two recommendations:
1) Chapman set 8900. It contains a rachet handle that is priceless when removing really stubborn screws and nipples. The bits are frangible, so that the bit will break before the screw head is damaged if the screw is stuck. Small enough that set will fit in a coat pocket (which I've never done, but it will fit in my range bag very nicely). Available from:
Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/510765/chapman-model-8900-27-piece-deluxe-screwdriver-set
Brownell's: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4979/Product/DELUXE-GUN-SCREWDRIVER-SET
and several others.
2) Brownell's Magna-Tip. Bigger set, can be bought in many configurations. Different size handles, magnetic and non-magnetic choices, This is more of a benchtop set but can be bought in small pieces to configure a range bag set. Note they have a Ruger Single Action set consisting of a magnetic handle and 5 bits. Available only from Brownell's:http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=magna+tip+screwdrivers/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=magna_tip_screwdrivers
Neither of those is cheap, but cheap isn't the right answer. Midway has a better range of less expensive sets if $30 is just too much for a good screwdriver set (it's not, but I enjoy spending other people's money).
robhof
Member
robhof
I had forgotten about the video, it's the best and actually from a Ruger rep. I've copied it and sent it to a few ROA owners I know locally. There's a separate video for dis-assembly and re-assembly. A great tutorial for even the pro's.
I had forgotten about the video, it's the best and actually from a Ruger rep. I've copied it and sent it to a few ROA owners I know locally. There's a separate video for dis-assembly and re-assembly. A great tutorial for even the pro's.
"Midway has a better range of less expensive sets if $30 is just too much for a good screwdriver set (it's not, but I enjoy spending other people's money)."
Having used many hand tools in the HVAC (air conditioning) field I understand the value of quality tools. Not cheap, but not expensive.
Is there a certain size of punch that I will need?
I'll be venturing into Sears since it is the only place I seem to have been able to locate a 3/16 nut driver. Home Depot shows one by Klein (my favorite brand), but doesn't carry them in either of the 3 stores I visited.
Having used many hand tools in the HVAC (air conditioning) field I understand the value of quality tools. Not cheap, but not expensive.
Is there a certain size of punch that I will need?
I'll be venturing into Sears since it is the only place I seem to have been able to locate a 3/16 nut driver. Home Depot shows one by Klein (my favorite brand), but doesn't carry them in either of the 3 stores I visited.
For reassembly just do the disassembly steps in reverse or if you forgot how you ended up with a bucket of parts watch this video: Ruger Old Army Reassembly.
I did destroy the pawl spring on mine once. However that is a part common to other Rugers and was easily obtainable. You can smoosh it though.
Once you take it apart and get it back together once, you'll be OK. It's a simple gun and you just have to have a flat ground screw driver so you don't damage the screw heads.
I now have the hammer and trigger shimmed on both sides the correct amount with those micro SS washers. That was very fiddly but took all the side to side slop out of the hammer and trigger. It improved the action feel greatly. At first I made it too tight and after a few rounds the B/P residue caused functioning problems. So I removed a few shims and now it's perfect.
Once you take it apart and get it back together once, you'll be OK. It's a simple gun and you just have to have a flat ground screw driver so you don't damage the screw heads.
I now have the hammer and trigger shimmed on both sides the correct amount with those micro SS washers. That was very fiddly but took all the side to side slop out of the hammer and trigger. It improved the action feel greatly. At first I made it too tight and after a few rounds the B/P residue caused functioning problems. So I removed a few shims and now it's perfect.
Yes, there are small bits in both sets that will handle scope and sight screws.
Punch size: 3/16" or smaller
It was mentioned in both the disassembly and reassembly videos, but it should be stressed: Keep track of where the screws came from and be sure to put them back in the same holes. They are not interchangeable.
If you decide to buy one of the Brownell sets, get a spare set of Ruger single action revolver screws at the same time. You may never need one but it sure will save on shipping if you do. They no longer mention Old Army parts but the Single Six screw set is identical.
Punch size: 3/16" or smaller
It was mentioned in both the disassembly and reassembly videos, but it should be stressed: Keep track of where the screws came from and be sure to put them back in the same holes. They are not interchangeable.
If you decide to buy one of the Brownell sets, get a spare set of Ruger single action revolver screws at the same time. You may never need one but it sure will save on shipping if you do. They no longer mention Old Army parts but the Single Six screw set is identical.
Are you saying that the left screw isn't the same as the right screw or not to confuse the screws from the bottom of the trigger guard with those under the hammer?
Single Six screws are the same? I figured it would be the Blackhawk that was the same. Isn't it built from a Blackhawk? All of the screws or the ones below the hammer (I hear it's common to lose those)?
I may just have to take it apart to see what disassembly/reassembly is all about. And probably just to make certain it is in good condition in there.
Single Six screws are the same? I figured it would be the Blackhawk that was the same. Isn't it built from a Blackhawk? All of the screws or the ones below the hammer (I hear it's common to lose those)?
I may just have to take it apart to see what disassembly/reassembly is all about. And probably just to make certain it is in good condition in there.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
The screws from the bottom of the trigger guard with those under the hammer
Here are the Ruger part numbers for the grip frame screws. By part number you can see which screws are the same and which are different.
Grip Frame Screw-A-Front XR01700 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-B-Back (2 Req’d.) XR01800 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-C-Bottom (2 Req’d.) XR01900 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-A-Front KXR01700 Stainless Models
Grip Frame Screw-B-Back (2 Req’d.) KXR01800 Stainless Models
Grip Frame Screw-C-Bottom (2 Req’d.) KXR01900 Stainless Models
Ruger Old Army Manual
Grip Frame Screw-A-Front XR01700 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-B-Back (2 Req’d.) XR01800 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-C-Bottom (2 Req’d.) XR01900 Blued Models
Grip Frame Screw-A-Front KXR01700 Stainless Models
Grip Frame Screw-B-Back (2 Req’d.) KXR01800 Stainless Models
Grip Frame Screw-C-Bottom (2 Req’d.) KXR01900 Stainless Models
Ruger Old Army Manual
788Ham
Member
rodwha,
I've read this whole diatribe, can't figure some of this out. You have a BP revolver, have shot it, are now wanting to clean it, BUT, you don't know how, other than putting it in the dishwasher? You've spent monies on a revolver, BP, caps, but no cleaning solvent or patches? Not able to clean this outfit, but are trusted on the range with it? I'll come back tomorrow and re-read this, might make more sense then.
I've read this whole diatribe, can't figure some of this out. You have a BP revolver, have shot it, are now wanting to clean it, BUT, you don't know how, other than putting it in the dishwasher? You've spent monies on a revolver, BP, caps, but no cleaning solvent or patches? Not able to clean this outfit, but are trusted on the range with it? I'll come back tomorrow and re-read this, might make more sense then.
788: I read many accounts of people claiming it was as easy as putting it in the dishwasher, which didn't work for me so I cleaned it with a bore brush and a brush with soap and water. It left a lot of stuff around the nipple recesses, and some around the barrel under the top strap, which with a little help from the guys here I was able to get with pipe cleaners.
I was not familiar with cleaning a black powder weapon, though I have cleaned a few smokeless pistols.
I did not buy any cleaning solvent as I read water or soap and water was all that was necessary. I believed it would come clean easier than it did. And I do have cleaning patches, along with 2 cleaning kits (smokeless).
I'm definitely new to black powder all together, but not firearms in general, and am sorry I have given you such pause.
"...but are trusted on the range with it?"
I just freaked a little bit when I could't get it all cleaned well knowing that the residue could help create rust. I couldn't have that!
Be at ease that I'm certainly not dangerous with it as I understand common firearm safety.
I was not familiar with cleaning a black powder weapon, though I have cleaned a few smokeless pistols.
I did not buy any cleaning solvent as I read water or soap and water was all that was necessary. I believed it would come clean easier than it did. And I do have cleaning patches, along with 2 cleaning kits (smokeless).
I'm definitely new to black powder all together, but not firearms in general, and am sorry I have given you such pause.
"...but are trusted on the range with it?"
I just freaked a little bit when I could't get it all cleaned well knowing that the residue could help create rust. I couldn't have that!
Be at ease that I'm certainly not dangerous with it as I understand common firearm safety.
J-Bar
Member
Where did we ever get the idea that a gun must be cleaned in a certain amount of time? Maintenance is one of the privileges of gun ownership. It is not a race, it is not a competition.
I enjoy cleaning my guns. I enjoy disassembling, examining, cleaning, polishing, lubing, and reassembly. It might take me a day or two on one revolver. So what? If you are a true gun nut, what else would you rather be doing?
Approach it as a Zen exercise. Get a piece of paper and a bunch of ziploc sandwich bags. Remove a screw. Put it in a bag and label it "Screw #1" Write down where it came from on the gun. Repeat until the gun is disassembled. On an ROA, you put a 3 penny nail in the hammer strut to maintain mainspring pressure. And the caution about the pawl plunger and spring is well noted. Go Slow. Don't force anything.
Dishwashers are for dishes. Shooters clean their guns the right way.
I enjoy cleaning my guns. I enjoy disassembling, examining, cleaning, polishing, lubing, and reassembly. It might take me a day or two on one revolver. So what? If you are a true gun nut, what else would you rather be doing?
Approach it as a Zen exercise. Get a piece of paper and a bunch of ziploc sandwich bags. Remove a screw. Put it in a bag and label it "Screw #1" Write down where it came from on the gun. Repeat until the gun is disassembled. On an ROA, you put a 3 penny nail in the hammer strut to maintain mainspring pressure. And the caution about the pawl plunger and spring is well noted. Go Slow. Don't force anything.
Dishwashers are for dishes. Shooters clean their guns the right way.
J-Bar
Member
If that is where you want to do it, feel free.
I don't like digging screws out of garbage disposals or U-traps.
Go to the Dollar Store and buy a half-dozen shoe box sized plastic boxes, like you would use to store stuff in the fridge. You can disassemble each revolver into on box, it keeps the parts from getting mixed.
I work in the Food Safety and Inspection Service. I don't care to have solvents and shooting residues where my food is prepared, or where my eating utensils are cleaned. You can clean them wherever you want. It's your gun and your gut.
I don't like digging screws out of garbage disposals or U-traps.
Go to the Dollar Store and buy a half-dozen shoe box sized plastic boxes, like you would use to store stuff in the fridge. You can disassemble each revolver into on box, it keeps the parts from getting mixed.
I work in the Food Safety and Inspection Service. I don't care to have solvents and shooting residues where my food is prepared, or where my eating utensils are cleaned. You can clean them wherever you want. It's your gun and your gut.
For after most shooting sessions I don't dissemble the whole gun. I remove the cylinder and nipples and do exactly what I have said before.
Remove the grips and cylinder and nipples, spray and run a brush through the barrel and cylinder a few times and then drop it in the dishwasher.
It comes out 98% and I oil it and put it away. A couple of times and I disassemble and take a brass brush to it.
Remove the grips and cylinder and nipples, spray and run a brush through the barrel and cylinder a few times and then drop it in the dishwasher.
It comes out 98% and I oil it and put it away. A couple of times and I disassemble and take a brass brush to it.
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