Cleaning question

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When cleaning a gun, do I need powder solvent, copper solvent, AND oil? Should I run a patch with each down the barrel?

Whats the deal with people using brake/carb cleaner?

Which solvents/oils do you guys use and like? There are SO many.

Thanks
 
Your going to get an answer from everyone.

You need a copper solvent to remove copper deposits, this will also get you many answers about everyones favorite product. Carbon deposits might not come off all the way with just a copper solvent so you might need a cleaner that removes carbon deposits.

People use brake parts cleaner as a fast way to remove dirt, oil and cleaning solvents off their guns. You need to be careful when using it as it can and will destroy certain stocks and finishes.

My personal favorites are Boretech's Eliminator copper solvent http://www.boretech.com/introducing.htm and Slip2000 carbon cleaner and lube http://www.slip2000.com/
 
i dislike copper solvent because the one rifle i thought needed it actually suffered accuracy loss when i removed the copper fouling.

i like plain old hoppes9 followed by oil. many times i spray on wd40 and let sit for a day to loosen up things. stubborn carbon just brushes right out if you soak it all good. carb cleaner can melt some plastics to be careful. i rarely use carb cleaner cause i end up with it on my skin and i hate that.
 
The reason the gun was less accurate following removal of the penny factory was that the conditions inside the bore were different. If you'd started with a clean barrel, handloading for accuracy, you'd notice a deterioration as it crudded up.

If it was already crudded up, first, it's gonna be erratic. Shot might go into the group, or into west jeezus... It's gonna be just as hard maintaining the proper level of crud as it is maintaining a proper level of clean...

My favorite solvent is Butch's Bore Shine... Good all-round powder/plastic solvent, and excellent copper cutter. For .22s, I like TM's stuff. Both are available at www.sinclairintl.com.
 
In general

if you shoot jacketed or plated centerfire, you will get buildup of jacket metal. Each shot will lay down a film of jacket, which is then covered by firing residue, which is then covered by copper on the next shot. If you don't remove the copper you can't remove the fouling.

Most folks start with a standard bore cleaner, and then if they can see any copper they follow with a copper solvent. Take your pick-there are many. I've used SHooter's Choice, Accu-Bore, Hoppe's Benchrest, etc. but mostly I use Sweet's 7.62.

If you shoot only rimfire or lead,you only need a standard solvent like Hoppe's #9. If your centerfire handgun gets barrel leading, you'll need lead remover also.
 
I agree with 50 shooter on the Eliminator and the Carbon Killer. Great stuff.

I also like Slip2000 gun cleaner as well as M-Pro7 gun cleaner. I like the M-Pro7 gun oil, Snake oil, Gun Butter, and Slide Glide.

Some folks just use motor oil.
Is it good for 3000 miles or 3000 rounds?:neener:
 
I use Sweets, Kroil, Butch bore shine, JB bore paste, and Ballistol. I despise copper in a barrel, some of the old milsurps I bought had so much copper in them, I cleaned for weeks, then used bore paste on them, shot a few rounds, and cleaned again. They shoot much better clean. Once they are clean, you can keep them that way with Kroil alone.
 
I agree with 50 Shooter. both the "Eliminator" and the "carbon killer" are biodegradabel and non-toxic. Take care of your kidneys and liver by staying awy from the toxic cleaners when you have these options.
 
A Lewis lead remover is very good for removing lead. Copper pads are for pots and pans.
Brownell's sells them.
I use Hoppe's products for my smokeless cleaning needs and Ballistol for real powder.

Dave
 
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