So do you need 4 Gun Cleaning oils/solvents: one each for Copper, Carbon, Lead, and Plastic Wads?

[Aim1]

This post pertains to all firearms; pistols, rifles, shotguns, and muzzleloaders.

There's 4 components that make guns dirty, correct? Copper from bullets, lead from bullets, carbon from the powder, and plastic from shotgun wads.

More so when you are firing a revolver you get carbon from the powder on the barrel and cylinder and on a semi-auto the slide, you obviously wouldn't use a copper cleaner on this. To clean the barrel you're certainly going to want to get the copper, lead, and carbon out depending on what type of bullet you shot. For plastic shotgun shotshell wads you are going to want something to remove the plastic.

So do you need 4 Gun Cleaning oils/solvents: one each for Copper, Carbon, Lead, and Plastic shotshell wads?


***** And if this is the case, what are the 4 best cleaning solvents for each of these issues? *****

 

[Jenrick]

In general what you need is a solvent that will remove what residues can't be wiped off the gun. A whole lot of carbon can simply be wiped off the surface of the pistol. Lead usually comes out fairly well with a brass brush, though you may occasionally need a solvent. Really only areas where high heat allow the residues to bake on actually require a solvent.

I find I rarely need a copper solvent, and lead even less so. Carbon is the main one, and honestly there are so many out there you can really use whatever is handy. For carbon I've been using Hoppes #9 for a long time, and find it works well. Blue Wonder and Gunslick if I need to worry about copper.

 

[Mk-211]

No, I use one that will do it, Boretech Eliminator.

But, if you really get into it like the rest of us... Slip2000 makes a great carbon remover and some other great gun cleaning/lubes...

Boretech also makes separate cleaners and lubricants. Both companies are top notch.

ETA: Because the above poster hit the thread, wanted to add this about what was posted.

I've used Blue Wonder, left me wondering what it was doing. Still have 99% of the container left and will never buy it again.

Hopper's #9 is good for carbon but not for copper fouling. I think they make a copper solvent #9 now, would have to check.

Gunslick does make a good copper solvent.

 

[Dibbs]

Barrel cleaning is a completely different animal from exterior finishes.
FOR THE BARREL, when buildup is evident, I like Janitors Ammonia, cut with water, followed by Cider Vinegar. Dawn and water for cleanup, then a light lube.

Exterior Finishes, cleaning varies by the firearm's composition, as some already mentioned, a wipedown, with a clean, dry, 100% cotton rag removes a lot of dirt.
Follow manufacturer's recommendations.

 

[Steve S.]

+1 Boretech Eliminator (it liquifies everything to bright, shiny steel) - then a very light coating of anything that protects from rust (ie any common gun oil).

 

[Pat Riot]

For pistols and revolvers I never need copper solvent but in rifles, yes.

I use Hoppe’s #9 and / or Break Free CLP for handgun and rifle cleaning unless I need copper solvent and the I use Hoppe’s Copper Solvent.

If I get excessive lead build up a bronze brush usually works, but I have had to resort to Lead Away patches when I have shot inferior ammunition.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I only shoot jacketed bullets or monolithic. So for me there’s little need to worry about lead. I use Hoppe’s #9 for general cleaning and use their copper solvent roughly every 2000 rounds or so.

Honestly I doubt I even need the copper solvent.

 

[boom boom]

Depends on how rough your bore is and how hard you like to push your reloads.

I like firing old military surplus rifles with original barrels that can be quite rough (but often accurate until they foul). To a degree, a certain amount of fouling can actually improve accuracy by smoothing a roughened bore but then it can also be a safety hazard after a certain point especially if you choose to shoot reduced loads. Reduced loads are often prudent in old firearms. That is one of the reasons that I use a borescope to determine bore condition and rarely shoot enough in an old rough milsurp at one setting to risk pressure events.

The risk to leaving fouling in old rifles with pitted bores is that layers of fouling can attract atmospheric moisture and lead to unseen corrosion in the barrel. So better safe than sorry in removing the fouling.

I have a certain handgun that hate lead with a passion so that I have to spend time cleaning them with a Lewis Lead Removal tool. So, I pretty much shoot it with jacketed bullets. Others love lead bullets and leave little residue.

So, I have solvents for all three--carbon, lead, and copper because it makes it easier to deal with new (used) acquisitions. I have even a setup for electrolysis which pretty much can get EVERYTHING out of a barrel.

I have heard great things about Boretech eliminator and plan to try it in the near future on some old separate barrels first which is my usual go to.

 

[tbs]

Bore tech for the win!! followed by one patch of Hoppes 9 for that great smell!

 

[doubleh]

I've never been unable to remove lead with a bronze bore bush wrapped with strands of copper from a choreboy scouring pad.

 

[243winxb]

There's 3 components that make guns dirty, correct?

There are 4. Plastic from shotgun wads & sabots in muzzle loaders.

Hoppe's #9 Benchrest copper solvent. Wet bore. Soak for 24 hrs. Remove.

 

[Aim1]

There are 4. Plastic from shotgun wads & sabots in muzzle loaders.

Hoppe's #9 Benchrest copper solvent. Wet bore. Soak for 24 hrs. Remove.

Ah, forgot that. I did just buy some Slip2000 Choke Tube Cleaner for my shotgun's plastic wads.

 

[Shawn Dodson]

Hoppe's #9 works very well in removing copper fouling - just as good as any dedicated copper solvent. Apply and let it sit for 20 minutes. Run a clean, dry patch thru - the patch may come out green or black. If it comes out black the patch will turn green in a few minutes as the copper oxidizes. Apply and let sit 20 minutes then run a clean, dry patch thru the bore. Repeat until the patch comes out clean.

 

[film495]

not in my experience. 99% of the time I use Hoppe's #9. I have a bottle of Shooter's Choice for stronger cleaning, but have only used it to test if a stronger cleaner pulls out any more copper than the Hoppe's and did not. So, I just use the Hoppe's, but - it is there if I decide I need it for something. I'm pretty sure any solvent, mineral spirits or paint thinner, could be used for most cleaning - and it is less expensive. I don't shoot enough to find the cost of a few bottle's of Hoppe's to be prohibitive, so - I don't do that, but pretty sure it would clean up carbon as well as anything else.

 

[Deus Machina]

I should probably find a good lead solvent, but so far I haven't run into something I haven't been able to fix with penetrating oil and scrubbing.
For my normal shooting needs, I use Hoppes for carbon and basic cleaning, and a $2 jug of ammonia for copper. Apply with soaked patches, scrub with brush, repeat.
I'm not a benchrest shooter or anything that builds up serious deposits, though. I'd want something that could stick and soak if I were.
I should probably also find a decent plastic solvent for my shotgun, but I'm not yet worried about some streaking in a HD Mossberg.

 

[Aim1]

Wasn't there a thread on here where people said that Slip2000 was a great cleaner and protectant?

 

[Ks5shooter]

 

[tactikel]

#9

 

[Mark1964]

For bores, I use Kroil.
When copper is involved, Kroil chased with dry patches, then a copper solvent, then dry patches, then Kroil.