Cleaning the bore of M1 Garand or Marlin 30-30

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its not going to stop a cleaning rod from flexing and bowing against inner bore. Any little nick in the bore is going to kill accuracy. The bore is the same hardness as the blued or stainless exterior, think of all the exterior little imperfections your rifle has. foaming bore cleaner and a bore snake is all I will ever use.
 
a carbon fiber or plastic-coated cleaning rod isn't going to nick your bore and they don't have a shoestring that will eventually break
 
rc model nailed it again.

In my case I machined a guide for my cleaning rod from delrin that fits over the barrel and is milled out for the gas tube. Hole for the rod is of course in line with the barrel.
 
Been using the same snakes for 12 years now, and I've added a few along the way.

Ain't broke a one.
Click to expand...

Spose so, and I'm sure there are those that still use jointed steel/aluminum rods and no bore/rod guides.

I do use the Weed Whacker Line method tho at times albeit sparingly.
 
All of my cleaning rods (Hoppes) are aluminum. I only have one steel rod that I use sparingly on my .22's, and that, only because it's long enough to do the job, and because the bore-snake labeled for .22s does not, for some reason, fit my barrel. :/
 
One of the major POTENTIAL problems of rods coated with nylon, fiber, plastic or whatever is the possibility of grit becoming embedded in the surface of the rod and thus wearing the barrel.

A quick bore-protector can be made by cutting-off an inch or so of the front of a case whose neck will JUST fit into the muzzle of the rifle being cleaned.... 6.5mm works great for .30.caliber, for example. The cut-off portion is slipped over the rod and its neck inserted into the muzzle. VOILA' ..... no more rod-to-bore contact. Cost: ZERO.
 
A quick bore-protector can be made by cutting-off an inch or so of the front of a case whose neck will JUST fit into the muzzle of the rifle being cleaned.... 6.5mm works great for .30.caliber, for example. The cut-off portion is slipped over the rod and its neck inserted into the muzzle. VOILA' ..... no more rod-to-bore contact. Cost: ZERO.
Click to expand...

True, this protects the muzzle, but not the bore slightly further down into the barrel when the rod flexes and comes in contact with the bore. Unless of course you've inserted "something" into the case and then center drilled the insert to accommodate the cleaning rod.

One of the major POTENTIAL problems of rods coated with nylon, fiber, plastic or whatever is the possibility of grit becoming embedded in the surface of the rod and thus wearing the barrel.
Click to expand...

This is what makes a highly polished stainless steel cleaning such a good rod, bar none.
 
Aluminum and brass rods can imbed with grit and harm the bore. They have been discredited for years. You are much better off with hard, unjointed steel rods. In any case, wiping the rod clean before putting it down a bore is a good idea.

I use Bore Snakes on occassion and find them useful. It is amazing, though, the crud that I find in a bore when I follow a snake with a good rod, brush, and tight patch. The rod cleans FAR better.
 
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