cleaning your revolvers
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BHP FAN
Member
Seconds on the hot water and dish soap, followed by a rinse of hot water, then clean again as you normally would with any modern revolver. the hot water nutralizes the BP residue, and dish soap cleans it away, hot water to rinse removes any residual soap, and dries quicker than cold water, and then you just clean it, oil it, and put away like any other hand gun.
If you gun is firing on all chambers, pull the nipples one at a time, apply anti seize grease and leave them in for at least a year. Don't wear yourself out taking the nipples out at each cleaning or you'll get tired of the whole thing and stop shooting them. Complete disassembly of the innards is done only if you get cap fragment down in the works that are interfering with functioning. Otherwise a little oil into the works prevents rust. I use a lot of Q-tips.
J-Bar
Member
I am normally faced with cleaning at least two, and perhaps more cap and ball revolvers after a range trip, so I make sure the disassembled parts don't get mixed.
Get some plastic containers from the Dollar Store (cheap!) about the size of a shoe box. I field disassemble each revolver (4 parts for an open top- barrel/rammer, wedge, cylinder, grip and frame) into a separate container. Then hot soapy water in another container, hot rinse water in the last container. All lined up side by side on the workbench.
Other tools...toothbrush and a pistol rod with a soft mop, a roll of paper towels, bore snake, and as Hellgate says, lots of Q-tips.
Then just run the parts through the wash and rinse containers and return them to their original boxes. If you need instructions on how to scrub parts, let me know!!
Edit:
Sometimes I can't do the cleaning immediately after returning home. If I have to delay cleaning, I will still disassemble the revolvers into their respective containers, spray them thoroughly with aerosol Ballistol or Ballistol/water mix, and let them sit. It may be a couple of days before I get back to them, no problem.
Get some plastic containers from the Dollar Store (cheap!) about the size of a shoe box. I field disassemble each revolver (4 parts for an open top- barrel/rammer, wedge, cylinder, grip and frame) into a separate container. Then hot soapy water in another container, hot rinse water in the last container. All lined up side by side on the workbench.
Other tools...toothbrush and a pistol rod with a soft mop, a roll of paper towels, bore snake, and as Hellgate says, lots of Q-tips.
Then just run the parts through the wash and rinse containers and return them to their original boxes. If you need instructions on how to scrub parts, let me know!!
Edit:
Sometimes I can't do the cleaning immediately after returning home. If I have to delay cleaning, I will still disassemble the revolvers into their respective containers, spray them thoroughly with aerosol Ballistol or Ballistol/water mix, and let them sit. It may be a couple of days before I get back to them, no problem.
Last edited:
BSA1
member
1. Put DVD movie into the player. Usually a western since I am cleaning a Old West designed gun.
2. Remove cylinder for 1858's, barrel and cylinder for Colt clones.
3. I remove the nipples.
4. Water and Moosemilk.
5. Cloth patches only. No bronze brush.
6. Ballistol. A shot inside the action and wet patch down the chambers and barrel.
7. Finish watching movie.
2. Remove cylinder for 1858's, barrel and cylinder for Colt clones.
3. I remove the nipples.
4. Water and Moosemilk.
5. Cloth patches only. No bronze brush.
6. Ballistol. A shot inside the action and wet patch down the chambers and barrel.
7. Finish watching movie.
DD4lifeusmc
Member
cleaning
Back in the 70's an old man then, taught me to use plain rubbing alcohol,
because in the range and field hot soapy water probably would not be available.
Brand new=== complete full disassenbly and stone any rough edges
reassemble trigger and hammer.
fill the cavity with CVA patch grease- no longer available.
Today fill that cavity with home made lube or bore butter.
Completlely full residue and fouling can't get in. neither can moisture
There after every couple years.
Make sure where main spring meets hammer is filled also.
apply a very light coat to sides and face of hammer and the hammer slot.
Any residue there will pretty much just wipe off
Remove the nipples clean threads, lube threads with anything to act as antisieze. Nost people use antisieze. re-install nipples don't over tighten.
Now normal day to day after shooting.
remove cylinder and the loading ram.
Wipe down the whole exterior of revolver with rubbing alcohol. If it was coated with lube in the hammer slot and the cylinder frame area before shooting. most likely won't need a brush.
But maybe a nylon tooth brush.
Same with barrel bore. Swab with patches dipped in alcohol and then dry ones till clean.
If you have bad leading (but shouldn't) you may need hoppes or such and a brass bore brush to get the lead out.
But loaded properly shouldn't have a leading problem.
After bore is clean and dry, a all natural non petroleum lube lube.
You exotic fellows use your synthetics.
the cylinder and nipples.
While you were cleaning rest of the gun the cylinder with nipples still installed should be submerged in the alcohol.
now take it out. swab the cylinders clean. shouldn't need brushing.
Blow through the chambers clearing the nipples. Inspect them , if see light through them they're clean.
If you did antisieze on threads above, fouling won't get to the threads and no reason to remove.
As in the trigger assembly I only remove once a year or so.
I do not lube my chambers, as I immediately reload the revolver.
I use paper cartridges and lubed conicals
the exterior of gun, I just wipe with a rag just barely dampened with any gun oil/ sewing maching oil
Nothing fancy to my cleaning. Usually done in about 15 minutes.
Back in the 70's an old man then, taught me to use plain rubbing alcohol,
because in the range and field hot soapy water probably would not be available.
Brand new=== complete full disassenbly and stone any rough edges
reassemble trigger and hammer.
fill the cavity with CVA patch grease- no longer available.
Today fill that cavity with home made lube or bore butter.
Completlely full residue and fouling can't get in. neither can moisture
There after every couple years.
Make sure where main spring meets hammer is filled also.
apply a very light coat to sides and face of hammer and the hammer slot.
Any residue there will pretty much just wipe off
Remove the nipples clean threads, lube threads with anything to act as antisieze. Nost people use antisieze. re-install nipples don't over tighten.
Now normal day to day after shooting.
remove cylinder and the loading ram.
Wipe down the whole exterior of revolver with rubbing alcohol. If it was coated with lube in the hammer slot and the cylinder frame area before shooting. most likely won't need a brush.
But maybe a nylon tooth brush.
Same with barrel bore. Swab with patches dipped in alcohol and then dry ones till clean.
If you have bad leading (but shouldn't) you may need hoppes or such and a brass bore brush to get the lead out.
But loaded properly shouldn't have a leading problem.
After bore is clean and dry, a all natural non petroleum lube lube.
You exotic fellows use your synthetics.
the cylinder and nipples.
While you were cleaning rest of the gun the cylinder with nipples still installed should be submerged in the alcohol.
now take it out. swab the cylinders clean. shouldn't need brushing.
Blow through the chambers clearing the nipples. Inspect them , if see light through them they're clean.
If you did antisieze on threads above, fouling won't get to the threads and no reason to remove.
As in the trigger assembly I only remove once a year or so.
I do not lube my chambers, as I immediately reload the revolver.
I use paper cartridges and lubed conicals
the exterior of gun, I just wipe with a rag just barely dampened with any gun oil/ sewing maching oil
Nothing fancy to my cleaning. Usually done in about 15 minutes.
Noz
Member
Nothing much to add. I use water to clean, Ballistol to preserve.
I don't pull nipple for each cleaning. I do agree that the nipple installation should be with a good antisieze and be only finger tight.
My cleaning regimen is to insure that I get around to doing it sometime soon. I once let a revolver go(forgot about it) for a little over 3 months with no damage.
I don't pull nipple for each cleaning. I do agree that the nipple installation should be with a good antisieze and be only finger tight.
My cleaning regimen is to insure that I get around to doing it sometime soon. I once let a revolver go(forgot about it) for a little over 3 months with no damage.
Fingers McGee
Member
1. Spray barrel bore, cylinder and frame/hammer with Balistol & let sit for a day or two.
2. Break revolver into 3 parts - frame, cylinder, barrel.
3. remove nipples and let sit in Birchwood Casey BP solvent while you clean rest of revolver.
4. Run patched jag through barrel to remove now softened fouling. Run Balistol wetted and dry patches through barrel till clean. Usually takes 3 or 4.
5. Wipe fouling from outside of barrel.
6. Take cylinder to utility sink and scrub chambers and nipple cutouts with brush till clean. Blow dry, then run Balistol wetted patch into chambers and nipple cutouts to get any remaining fouling. You may have to use brush on nipple cutouts.
7. Wipe frame down & use Q-tips and pipe cleaners to get into nooks & crannies. You may have to use a brush wetted with Birchwood Casey BP solvent to dissolve cap fouling from hammer & recoil shield.
8. After all other parts have been cleaned and wiped down with Balistol wetted cloth, take nipples from solvent bath, wipe outsides using brush as necessary, run pipe cleaner into nipple, blow nipple out with compressed air, spray threads with Balistol, and reinstall in cylinder.
9. Reassemble revolver.
If I'm doing two revolvers, I break down and remove nipples for soaking from both of them. I use two cap tins to soak the nipples.
I do a complete tear down and cleaning every two or three months - or around 300 rounds.
2. Break revolver into 3 parts - frame, cylinder, barrel.
3. remove nipples and let sit in Birchwood Casey BP solvent while you clean rest of revolver.
4. Run patched jag through barrel to remove now softened fouling. Run Balistol wetted and dry patches through barrel till clean. Usually takes 3 or 4.
5. Wipe fouling from outside of barrel.
6. Take cylinder to utility sink and scrub chambers and nipple cutouts with brush till clean. Blow dry, then run Balistol wetted patch into chambers and nipple cutouts to get any remaining fouling. You may have to use brush on nipple cutouts.
7. Wipe frame down & use Q-tips and pipe cleaners to get into nooks & crannies. You may have to use a brush wetted with Birchwood Casey BP solvent to dissolve cap fouling from hammer & recoil shield.
8. After all other parts have been cleaned and wiped down with Balistol wetted cloth, take nipples from solvent bath, wipe outsides using brush as necessary, run pipe cleaner into nipple, blow nipple out with compressed air, spray threads with Balistol, and reinstall in cylinder.
9. Reassemble revolver.
If I'm doing two revolvers, I break down and remove nipples for soaking from both of them. I use two cap tins to soak the nipples.
I do a complete tear down and cleaning every two or three months - or around 300 rounds.
Gosh, I guess I'm more anal than most. I do a complete teardown and cleaning each and every time I come home from shooting. I do usually shoot at least 80 rounds in a session though. After that many rounds, there is so much residue in the frame/grip area, I don't feel comfortable leaving it dirty. I also pull the nipples each and every time. I use a hot soapy water mix then rinse in hot water and take each part out to the air compressor and blow dry each part separate while they are still hot. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't like a spec of fouling in my guns. I never know when I will have them out again so that's what I do.
I suppose if I knew I would be shooting them again in a few days, I wouldn't be so thorough. I also use a lot of q-tips and anti-seize on the nipples and natural lube on the rest
I suppose if I knew I would be shooting them again in a few days, I wouldn't be so thorough. I also use a lot of q-tips and anti-seize on the nipples and natural lube on the rest
Do not get caught, but you can remove the grip panels, and stick it in the dishwasher barrel down. Cleans up real nice, the dry cycle removes all moisture and then lube.
Oh, and run the dishwasher thru a cycle empty to remove any evidence. If you have time, run a load of dishes thru. The wife will think you are just a super guy for being so considerate.
Too bad long gun barrels don't fit.
Oh, and run the dishwasher thru a cycle empty to remove any evidence. If you have time, run a load of dishes thru. The wife will think you are just a super guy for being so considerate.
Too bad long gun barrels don't fit.
44 Dave
Member
The important thing here, as I see it, is SHOOTING it in the first place.
Lot of good suggestions here, just don't make cleaning so much of a chore you won't want to shoot!
I use a home made bp solvent, antisieze on nipples and sometimes a little bit of Balistol down into the works. I winter shoot and don't want lube that gets thick.
I do go back and re-oil all of my bp guns often.
Lot of good suggestions here, just don't make cleaning so much of a chore you won't want to shoot!
I use a home made bp solvent, antisieze on nipples and sometimes a little bit of Balistol down into the works. I winter shoot and don't want lube that gets thick.
I do go back and re-oil all of my bp guns often.
Panzerschwein
member
I use a 10 part water to 1 part Ballistol mixture, placed in a spray bottle.
Take the gun apart. Squirt everything with mixture. Use q-tips and jags and cleaning patches. After the mixture dries it leaves a thin coat of Ballistol to prevent corrosivation.
Take the gun apart. Squirt everything with mixture. Use q-tips and jags and cleaning patches. After the mixture dries it leaves a thin coat of Ballistol to prevent corrosivation.
Ephraim Kibbey
Member
Jeepnik, you are a genius! You too Tomahawk!
I've been washing my revolver parts with Dawn and water in old foil baking pans for years.
Then I dry them in a warm oven, oil the gun and reattach the stocks.
My wife is already used to my guns in HER kitchen.
Its OK as long as I don't pick a time when she is creating something delicious.
The dishwasher is the logical next step for 21st century black powder clean up.
What brand of dishwasher detergent do you use?
I've been washing my revolver parts with Dawn and water in old foil baking pans for years.
Then I dry them in a warm oven, oil the gun and reattach the stocks.
My wife is already used to my guns in HER kitchen.
Its OK as long as I don't pick a time when she is creating something delicious.
The dishwasher is the logical next step for 21st century black powder clean up.
What brand of dishwasher detergent do you use?
Mike OTDP
Member
Remove cylinder. Remove nipples. Run a patch soaked in Simple Green through each chamber. Submerge cylinder and nipples in a cup of ~10% Simple Green solution, let soak while you work the barrel.
Take rest of gun (I shoot a Remington). Flush barrel and cylinder window with hot running water. Scrub cylinder window with brush, be sure to get the barrel threads. Scrub barrel with patches soaked in Simple Green - it'll take about three. Dry gun. Run Ballistol-soaked patch down bore, rub outside with patch. Spray Ballistol into lockwork. Put aside.
Remove cylinder and nipples from cup. Rinse and dry nipples, set aside. Run soaked cleaning patch through cylinder chambers until clean...one or two patches, total. Rinse cylinder, dry chambers and outside. Spray with Ballistol. Reassemble nipples finger-tight, reassemble gun. Cock gun and lower hammer (to ensure smooth operation and get the lubricants spread evenly.
With practice, it takes ~15 minutes. Do a complete disassembly and detail cleaning annually.
Take rest of gun (I shoot a Remington). Flush barrel and cylinder window with hot running water. Scrub cylinder window with brush, be sure to get the barrel threads. Scrub barrel with patches soaked in Simple Green - it'll take about three. Dry gun. Run Ballistol-soaked patch down bore, rub outside with patch. Spray Ballistol into lockwork. Put aside.
Remove cylinder and nipples from cup. Rinse and dry nipples, set aside. Run soaked cleaning patch through cylinder chambers until clean...one or two patches, total. Rinse cylinder, dry chambers and outside. Spray with Ballistol. Reassemble nipples finger-tight, reassemble gun. Cock gun and lower hammer (to ensure smooth operation and get the lubricants spread evenly.
With practice, it takes ~15 minutes. Do a complete disassembly and detail cleaning annually.
Steve2md
Member
I break my bp revolvers all the way down every time I shoot them. It really doesn't take that much more time, and allows me to catch any problems before they show up
BigHunt 1981
Member
This is my procedure exactly, unless I am going to shoot it again soon, then I just spray the whole thing with WD-40 and wrap in a plastic grocery bag and stick it back in the holster or gun rug. Comes out just like it went in even after sitting for a week! Did this for 3 weeks straight and finally cleaned it after about 250 rounds total. No rust anywhere!
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