Coil spring prototype underway on 1858 Remington

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Apr 6, 2018
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Since the bench is currently clear I've been working on a mainspring conversion to a coil spring for the 1858. So far it's showing some real promise. It's been interesting getting the operating angles sorted out but so far so good. Not going show photos until I get most of the bugs worked out. Once the Remmie conversion is figured out I am gonna tackle the open tops and see what can be done there. Let me know if anyone is interested in this conversion. I am really intrigued by the possibility of fitting this set-up in a Walker or Dragoon.
 
Pioneer! Don't you have to make a hammer strut with pivot and some means of securing it inside the frame?

Good luck with your tinkering and please do share it with us.:D
 
Actually it's been the other way, started with the Remington and now looking at the Colt. Whole different animal.
 
Pioneer! Don't you have to make a hammer strut with pivot and some means of securing it inside the frame?

Good luck with your tinkering and please do share it with us.:D
The ROA’s would serve as a model if one has the expertise to fashion them from scratch.
 
Been doing just that as far as the reverse engineering is concerned. The biggest hangup so far is getting the spring strut at the right angle to work the hammer and be able to clear the frame without binding.
 
JMHO, but Jack Lewis use to make a single shot pistol. The early ones used a Colt pistol grip frame, the latter ones a Ruger pistol grip frame. Colt was a flat spring, Ruger a coil spring. The flat spring model just about always fired. The coil spring one better have a fresh, new nipple. Maybe the flat spring one was just stronger to start with, I don't know. When shooting at Friendship it was 10 shots plus any practice shots per event every 30 minutes.Starting at 9 AM and shooting till noon, a hour break, then shooting from 1 to 5 PM meant at least 140 shots. Re-entry was two targets hung because a 8 ring meant you'd start another target. So 150 to maybe a 170 shots meant you didn't want to be changing nipples. I always teased him about the difference. I had a 36 and 40 cal, both early models, and a 50 that was a late model I ordered myself. Sorry I rambled on - just wanted to explain why I don't like coil springs.
 
Sorry, I don't see the point.

I don't see the point of putting a coil hammer spring in the 1858 Remington.

Ruger has always used coil springs instead of flat leaf type springs, and they are very practical over the flat leaf type hand spring and split trigger bolt spring, I just do not see the need to replace the hammer spring with a Ruger style strut and coil spring.

I have never seen the leaf type of hammer spring break, in any single action revolver, with a Colt or Remington style action. As a matter of fact I have never seen a flat hammer spring break in a double action revolver either.

Changing over to coil springs always involves increasing the part count, because in addition to the spring a plunger is usually needed to impart the spring action to the part it is moving.

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Look at how many more parts there are in a modern Ruger. Even without the transfer bar, a Ruger has more parts than a traditional Colt type action. Granted, the indestructibility of Ruger's hand and trigger/bolt spring make those parts superior to the analogous parts in a Colt. Trust me, I once had a trigger/bolt spring break at a CAS match and had to borrow a gun to finish the match. I always bring a back up set of Rugers in case something happens to one of my Colts. But I just don't see the point of putting a coil hammer spring and strut in the 1858 Remington.

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Moderators: One more photo that did not load.
 
Well DJ, you said it right away in your second paragraph. They are "practical" .
In fact, I've been doing coil conversions in Colt and Remington revolvers for over a decade. They help make them virtually indestructible.
I'm not a fan of the main spring being coil but the rest of the action benefits to the extreme for durability and life of . . .

The "idea" of having a coil main may give a competition shooter an even better sense of confidence in the revolver. Therefore, the conversion makes sense to that shooter (it being even more "like the Ruger" !!).


Personally. I think the flat main is the better spring for the job needed. Apparently Freedom Arms does too since they use a flat main in their revolvers.

I brought this to Jackrabbit1957's attention because of a simple part I found in a customer's revolver.
The problem with it is there's no good way for an action stop. It doesn't lend itself to what I install in Colt / Remington platforms or even my stop for the Ruger.

I didn't have time or machines to fool with it so I passed it on to him.

The coil actions are definitely superior to flats all the way around but keeping the main flat is still the way to go.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike! Right now it's an experiment to see how practical it is and to see if there is a simple and cost effective way to make it work. Project is currently on hold due to other work on the bench. I sorta have the Remmie figured out but there are still details to work on. The Colt is a different animal, fortunately I have a beater revolver to play with on both models. I am hoping to get the Remington figured out as I have an 1875 that likes to pop the flat spring out of its seat on occasion. It would most definitely benefit from the Ruger set up.
 
Made some progress on the coil spring conversion on both the Remington and Colt pistols. I wound up making a "S" shaped strut to fit the curve of the grip frame better and make the angles work. The strut is 1/8 inch drill rod that can be shaped to fit but still hold its curves without changing. I found that a short 1 1/2 inch somewhat angry spring works well to drive the hammer. I also figured out an action stop as well. I have an 1875 Uberti Remmie that was giving me trouble with the flat spring popping out of it's seat if it wasn't in exactly the right spot. This solves the problem. I will try to shoot it this week if the weather settles down. So the question arises, is it worthwhile to do this, can it be done in a cost effective manner , is there a demand for it? The modification shows good promise at this point.
 
with the flat spring popping out of it's seat

Do you mean where the end, or the fat part of the spring seats in the notch in the grip frame, or did it pop out from under the hammer?

I had a Remington once where the spring was a bit short, and would "pop out" from under the hammer. ?? I forged it out longer and re-tempered it.
 
This one would pop out at the fat end. Weird and really annoying. Problem is fixed now. Just have a few minor tweaks to do and it's good to go.
 
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