cold weather shooting - any differences?
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lysanderxiii
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Don't lick your aluminum receiver.....
Most powders will be 1-2 fps slower for each degree temperature changes. If the load was developed at +70 and shot at -20 you're talking about 100-200 fps slower. That can throw off trajectory at longer ranges. There are powders that are less sensitive to temp changes. You'll still see less speed, just not as dramatic, closer to 50 fps difference with a 90 degree temp drop.
I'd completely degrease my rifle and use no lubricant or a dry graphite lube. Oils can become very thick at extreme cold.
I'd completely degrease my rifle and use no lubricant or a dry graphite lube. Oils can become very thick at extreme cold.
lysanderxiii
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matrem
Member
Most of the first six suggestions are spot on.
Below freezing, as in 31 F to about the mid-upper teens to lower twenties (depending on humidity) have never shown me any difference as far as equipment.
I did get reminded on a 28 F foggy morning this past December to not leave front lens cover open with rifle leaning against a tree.
As for accuracy, guessing my shivering would be more of a factor than any physical ballistics. Keep in mind, I'm only talking about sub 200 yard shots where I hunt mostly.
I have experienced a few 'cold' related firearm issues, but all of those were under 0 degrees F, not 0 degrees C.
Below freezing, as in 31 F to about the mid-upper teens to lower twenties (depending on humidity) have never shown me any difference as far as equipment.
I did get reminded on a 28 F foggy morning this past December to not leave front lens cover open with rifle leaning against a tree.
As for accuracy, guessing my shivering would be more of a factor than any physical ballistics. Keep in mind, I'm only talking about sub 200 yard shots where I hunt mostly.
I have experienced a few 'cold' related firearm issues, but all of those were under 0 degrees F, not 0 degrees C.
Length of pull variance from a heavy coat makes getting the same cheek weld more challenging. And hopefully it doesn't stick.
Gloves make the trigger pull different. You may prefer to drop the trigger guard.
Breath on the optics or your own glasses if used is an issue. So is shooting into the wind if it gets into your eyes.
Prior to shooting, wipe off any extra lube and don't use heavy oils. Leave the rifle in a cold place - don't alternate by bringing it inside a heated shelter and back out, it will condense moisture which subsequently freezes. Same with ammo - acclimate it all.
Expect to exert more effort with bulky clothing, gloves, etc as you try to manipulate the controls. Hopefully you aren't stuck shooting off a concrete bench, which will absorb every BTU your body has where you touch it.
Subfreezing temps and wind are a lethal hazard. Think portable shelter, or a calm, sunny day.
It's not all about squeezing the trigger.
Gloves make the trigger pull different. You may prefer to drop the trigger guard.
Breath on the optics or your own glasses if used is an issue. So is shooting into the wind if it gets into your eyes.
Prior to shooting, wipe off any extra lube and don't use heavy oils. Leave the rifle in a cold place - don't alternate by bringing it inside a heated shelter and back out, it will condense moisture which subsequently freezes. Same with ammo - acclimate it all.
Expect to exert more effort with bulky clothing, gloves, etc as you try to manipulate the controls. Hopefully you aren't stuck shooting off a concrete bench, which will absorb every BTU your body has where you touch it.
Subfreezing temps and wind are a lethal hazard. Think portable shelter, or a calm, sunny day.
It's not all about squeezing the trigger.
Sav .250
Member
Dress warm and have at it.
bannockburn
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Wear plenty of layers of clothing; keep your head and hands warm. Have decent waterproof boots for those trips downrange to change targets. If at all possible have the wind at your back. Load up all of your magazines before you get to the range. Accuracy is not going to be the greatest due to conditions you are shooting in; be content just to get shots on paper. Don't stay too long.
All the above have been learned through experience.
All the above have been learned through experience.
OilyPablo
Member
Glad this is in the RIFLE section. The main thing about cold plinking that bugs me are snappy hand guns. But rifles are just fun, and not so hard on my hands. Only thing that bites me in the cold is stuffing pistol caliber lever guns with bare fingers.
1) I like some thin gloves, I finally settled on some "jogging gloves". Yeah I know. But they are not too tight, yet allow quite a bit of dexterity. Tight gloves are not good in very cold, IMHO.
2) As noted, lighten up on the lube. Conventional grease will keep a gun from properly cycling. Synthetic grease if grease is a must, synthetic oil better.
3) I went out at 22°F on New Year's day. That's my limit! But it was crystal clear and beautiful.
4) Yes layers. I have an Italian wool sweater - Army surplus!! A few layers underneath, the sweater then an outer blocking layer. My body stays nice and toasty. Long johns and flannel lined jeans work great. Then poly socks, with a wool-mix thick sock in boots.
1) I like some thin gloves, I finally settled on some "jogging gloves". Yeah I know. But they are not too tight, yet allow quite a bit of dexterity. Tight gloves are not good in very cold, IMHO.
2) As noted, lighten up on the lube. Conventional grease will keep a gun from properly cycling. Synthetic grease if grease is a must, synthetic oil better.
3) I went out at 22°F on New Year's day. That's my limit! But it was crystal clear and beautiful.
4) Yes layers. I have an Italian wool sweater - Army surplus!! A few layers underneath, the sweater then an outer blocking layer. My body stays nice and toasty. Long johns and flannel lined jeans work great. Then poly socks, with a wool-mix thick sock in boots.
Murphys Law
Member
Iv'e used the synthetic gun lube Shooters Choice FP-10 for over twenty years, in ALL types of small arms. Even in temps down into the teens, with no problems.
I'm not saying its the "best", and I'm sure there are other synthetic lubes that will work as well, but it works as advertised. After reading the thread, I did an internet search and found this thread
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/130312-atf-fluid-for-gun-lubricant
If Alaskans recommend it for their climate. It must be good.
As to breath frosting on the lens, I use flip open scope caps (Butler Creek), leaving the rear one closed until needed and consciously breathing down and away from the rear lens.
I'm not saying its the "best", and I'm sure there are other synthetic lubes that will work as well, but it works as advertised. After reading the thread, I did an internet search and found this thread
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/130312-atf-fluid-for-gun-lubricant
If Alaskans recommend it for their climate. It must be good.
As to breath frosting on the lens, I use flip open scope caps (Butler Creek), leaving the rear one closed until needed and consciously breathing down and away from the rear lens.
Caliper_Mi
Member
Bulky clothes may make shooting positions different, especially seated.
When returning home with an ice-cold rifle, I'll try to leave it in its case inside overnight to let it warm up. Pulling out a cold rifle in the house can generate condensation. Letting it warm in the case where the more humid air of the house is kept out will avoid this.
When returning home with an ice-cold rifle, I'll try to leave it in its case inside overnight to let it warm up. Pulling out a cold rifle in the house can generate condensation. Letting it warm in the case where the more humid air of the house is kept out will avoid this.
herrwalther
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There are entire courses in the military for cold weather warfare. Not much of it focuses on the actual mechanics of shooting. The useful things to know are use weather specific lubes. For example I would stop using generic CLP in exchange for Militec-1 when temps got to about -20. Also of note, cheaper plastics tend to crack under severe temperature changes, so a layer of tape can be used to insulate polymer from the cold. But unless you hunt with an AR you won't need to.
Your rifle can be cold longer than you can. If you bring a heated tent to stay warm, leave the rifle outside to avoid constant heat up-cool downs, which will lead to condensation and rust. When you are going to be warm for awhile, let your rifle "sweat" and warm up to normal before cleaning.
Your rifle can be cold longer than you can. If you bring a heated tent to stay warm, leave the rifle outside to avoid constant heat up-cool downs, which will lead to condensation and rust. When you are going to be warm for awhile, let your rifle "sweat" and warm up to normal before cleaning.
Sunray
Member
"...Don't lick your aluminum receiver..." Don't lick a steel receiver either. snicker.
Change lubes from oil to graphite or one of the high priced cold weather greases. Or shoot with the rifle bone dry. And work up a load using magnum primers.
31 F isn't cold. 'Cold' starts at -20 F. At -40, the two scales meet. -40 anything is friggin' cold, if you're not dressed for it. At that temperature, tomatoes turn into rocks, naphtha evaporates, 5 gallon milk bags start freezing 3' from a fire. So you close the hatch and turn on the heater. Assuming you have a hatch to close.
"...leave it in its case inside overnight..." Causes condensation that causes rusting. Out of the case, clean it and dry it.
Change lubes from oil to graphite or one of the high priced cold weather greases. Or shoot with the rifle bone dry. And work up a load using magnum primers.
31 F isn't cold. 'Cold' starts at -20 F. At -40, the two scales meet. -40 anything is friggin' cold, if you're not dressed for it. At that temperature, tomatoes turn into rocks, naphtha evaporates, 5 gallon milk bags start freezing 3' from a fire. So you close the hatch and turn on the heater. Assuming you have a hatch to close.
"...leave it in its case inside overnight..." Causes condensation that causes rusting. Out of the case, clean it and dry it.
entropy
Member
I triple dog dare ya!
I will tell you from personal experience that an M16A1 slathered with LSA will malfunction at +15F. I got three rounds off (blanks) before it FTF'd. (For the record, I did not lube the rifle; I was issued it about 5 minutes before firing it. The five minutes was spent loading as many rounds into mags as possible before the attack (ROTC FTX) on us. I had to pop the action open and wipe the bolt carrier and inside of the upper down to keep it firing. This was my introduction to the M16, and I wasn't impressed at the time. (At least I had fired and learned how to takedown a friend of my Dad's' AR-15 not long before that.)
I ran graphite in my 742 action for deer hunting below 0F. Worked slick. (pun intended.)
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That's only an issue in the movies. Go ahead and lick it.
Of course, I live in the south and didn't see snow until I was in my 40s...so I don't know crap about real cold. Cold to me is <60F.
I always use Kroil in temps down around 10 to 15 degrees. It works well. There are anti-fogging creams that be applied to optics, and cleaned off before hunting. It actually works. I always carry my scope cleaning "pen", and keep a cleaning rod, brushes, patches close by, as in the trunk.
Geno
Geno
Caliper_Mi
Member
Assuming it was dry when it was put in the case, it will not. The case is filled with the air that was present when it was closed at the range. That air is quite dry due to the cold temps. Letting the rifle warm in this dry environment will avoid condensation. Pulling it out of the case and into the more humid air of your house is what causes condensation.
tark
Member
Trust us northerners njl, you DO NOT want to lick your Aluminum receiver.... or your steel one....or almost any hard surface that is below zero in temp. You will look just like the kid licking the flagpole in the movie.
Scooter22
Member
I was shooting yesterday with my son in 23* weather. Dress warm and bring something to put on the bench seat. Having your butt freeze when sitting doesn't make for a fun afternoon. I have a couple sections of foam exercise mat that we put down. Ahhhhhhh
Ammo performance will drop slightly in cold temps, so expect a slight change in POI.
Trying to pick up your brass that's now frozen to the ground is frustrating, so switch to a manual action if possible.
In freezing temps I leave my wood stocked guns at home and shoot just synthetic stocks. Rapid temp change shock can crack wood.
You will find that in sub zero temps the decision to go shooting will be based on the wind chill factor.
Shooting is very pleasant down to about the teen's, but below that the wind speed is much more important.
I've been out shooting in -20 degrees on a calm day, and my hands were done after about an hour. Loading mags with bare hands will do that.
When returning home I leave the gun inside the sealed case until it's warmed to room temp, then remove and wipe it down. The air outside is cold but relative humidity is dry, but the air at home is warm and humidified, so warming it in a sealed case prevents condensation.
Trying to pick up your brass that's now frozen to the ground is frustrating, so switch to a manual action if possible.
In freezing temps I leave my wood stocked guns at home and shoot just synthetic stocks. Rapid temp change shock can crack wood.
You will find that in sub zero temps the decision to go shooting will be based on the wind chill factor.
Shooting is very pleasant down to about the teen's, but below that the wind speed is much more important.
I've been out shooting in -20 degrees on a calm day, and my hands were done after about an hour. Loading mags with bare hands will do that.
When returning home I leave the gun inside the sealed case until it's warmed to room temp, then remove and wipe it down. The air outside is cold but relative humidity is dry, but the air at home is warm and humidified, so warming it in a sealed case prevents condensation.
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