Colt Cobra lubrication

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J-Bar

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I have an early model Colt Cobra (aluminum frame, 5" barrel -yes 5", .38 Special). After leaving it in storage for several months it was nearly impossible to turn the cylinder. A few drops of oil where the cylinder contacts the crane relieved the bind and now it turns easily. I have not experienced this with any of the other revolvers I own.

Just wondering if this is a characteristic of Cobras or an idiosyncrasy of this particular revolver.

Any similar experiences from other Cobra owners?

Thanks for your insights.
 
No, it is nothing specific to your Colt Cobra revolver.

It is specific to the type of oil that was last used on it before storage.

Some kinds of oil dry out and turn into varnish over time.
Others don't.

I have been very fortunate over the years to buy several old fine firearms made during or before WWII.

Some of them have been almost glued shut with old dried oil, and others were as free as the day they were made.

The only possible difference it could be is the kind of oil used on them in the intervening years since they were put away the last time.

At any rate, a complete strip and cleaning all the old varnish and re-lubing with new oil made them work as new again.

BTW: If you have a 5" Colt Cobra, it has been re-barreled with a barrel off something else.

rc
 
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I agree with rcmodel except that I don't recommend tearing down that Cobra. I think the problem can be resolved by just removing the grips and soaking it in a good solvent, then follow with light lubrication. Don't use heavy oil, just light gun oil. A couple of drops ahead of the hammer, and a couple ahead of the trigger, plus one or two on the ejector rod and the same on the crane arbor, both the center where the cylinder turns and on the bottom one.

Jim
 
But 5" Cobra?

That would be a very rare, very special factory order bird!

But I don't know for sure.

Rc
 
Colt made a bunch of variants of guns that were never cataloged. Because of it they make a fortune lettering guns.....Google turns up at least one or two, plus other info on them.
 
To expound on what our resident masters (Jim K and rcmodel) are trying to tell you,

Among those of us with an appreciation for older revolvers, we sometimes encounter the mistakes of the previous owners. Either in their selection of lube and cleaning habits, or simply the repeated sin of OVER lubrication over a period of years.

In my experience ALMOST ALL of the malfunctions of this sort in vintage revolvers are attributable to one or the other and rectifiable by thorough cleaning with an impressive solvent (Ed's Red anyone?) and learning the correct method for lubricating ALL revolovers.

Good light oil (REMOIL is a good one for me) and the method mentioned above ( by Jim K in post # 5) have served me well for years and more than 1 vintage revolver has come into my possesion simply due to a need for a thorough cleaning and proper lube.

YMMV

Regards
 
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It doesn't take long for oil to become gummy. A couple of months ago I put some Eezox in a two ounce plastic bottle that doesn't seal 100%. I have been watching the level go down. Yesterday I squirted some out. It was the consistency of light pancake syrup. Eezox is normally like water.
 
It's a factory barrel

Sorry for the cell phone photos, but COBRA is on the left side and Colt's identification is on the right side. This one has Venezuelan Federal Police markings, so it was re-imported by Century Arms at some time.

Probably just clogged up with some Venezuelan crude!!

Is there an easy way to remove the cylinder without having to disassemble the whole thing?
 

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Yes.

There is a large cap screw above and forward of the trigger on the right side that holds the cylinder crane lock in place.

Back out the screw and the spring loaded pin should back out of the frame and release the crane.

At that point it can de slipped forward out of the frame.

You can then slide the cylinder assembly back out of the crane.

Do Not attempt to dissemble the cylinder assembly any further.

rc
 
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