Colt SAA help needed

[jtward01]

All,

I have a single-action Colt Peacemaker .22 with a timing problem and so far I haven't been able to find anyone to work on it, so I may have to try to tackle it myself.

The problem is that when cocking it the cylinder starts to rotate before the bolt has retracted. This is not only causing the cylinder to become marked, you can also feel it catch as you pull back the hammer. Would the fix for this be to cause the cylinder to move later, or to cause the bolt to move sooner? What would be the correct way to accomplish the needed adjustment?

 

[dfariswheel]

The best course is to return the gun to Colt.
NO ONE knows more about it than they do, and since they built it, they'll be able to fix it.

 

[jtward01]

The best course is to return the gun to Colt.
NO ONE knows more about it than they do, and since they built it, they'll be able to fix it.

Unfortunately, Colt will no longer work on these revolvers. They sold off their stock of spare parts several years ago.

I've contacted Peacemaker Specialists and several others and no one will work on it, I guess because it's "just" a .22.

 

[Old Fuff]

jtward01:

Question: Is this problem something that recently developed, or something that's always been around since you got the gun?

Also, did you purchase it new or used?

I believe that parts are still available at (www.e-gunparts.com).

 

[jtward01]

Long story. It had the problem from the time I received it.

I purchased what was supposed to be a 100%, mint condition, single action Colt from a well known outdoor writer. When the gun arrived I found that the ejector rod housing and the grip frame had been replaced with non-Colt parts and that the base pin retaining screw had been installed backwards. I re-installed the base pin properly and contacted the guy to ask for my money back. He refused, since I had "disassembled" the gun.

This is a very rare gun. It's one of only six Peacemaker .22s to leave the Colt factory with a nickel finish (confirmed by Colt letter). Finding replacement parts is impossible. I had to buy a regular blued ejector rod housing and grip frame and have them nickel plated. Of course, the gun has little collector's value left.

I don't think the gun has ever been fired. My guess is that the housing and grip frame were damaged somehow and the original owner, not being able to find nickel plated Colt parts, used parts that were close copies, probably from one of the many German built .22 single actions that were so popular back in the '60s.

I've got $750 invested in a gun that is worth maybe $450, and still isn't right. I doubt I'll ever sell it, I'd rather get it fixed, make a shooter out of it and pass it down when the time comes.

 

[Jim K]

One way is to trim a bit off the top edge of the hand so it engages a little later. But the problem could be in the bolt (cylinder stop) engaging the hammer. If there is wear or misfitting there, the bolt could be releasing late. Usually, it takes some examination and checking to determine just what is wrong and how best to correct it. And both the checking and the work involves "fit and try", sometimes many times. And THAT means removing and replacing screws, many times, something you might not want to do with that gun.

Since you don't plan to shoot the gun, why worry about the timing anyway?

Jim

 

[jtward01]

I've got $750 invested in a gun that is worth maybe $450, and still isn't right. I doubt I'll ever sell it, I'd rather get it fixed, make a shooter out of it and pass it down when the time comes. Besides, I'm picky. Just knowing the gun isn't right just flat bugs me!

 

[Old Fuff]

jtward01:

Numrich/The Gunparts Corporation at (www.e-gunparts.com) catalogs a new cylinder bolt for $5.25. (Plus shipping and handling which will probably double the cost).

In any case, I'd buy a new bolt for insurance, and then slightly lower the ball (that part of the bolt that sticks up through the frame and locks the cylinder) just a bit while being careful to retain the exact shape and angle. I suspect that something like .003" to .005" will cure your problem.

A Colt nickeled backstrap (the grip part) would run you $43.25, and an ejector tube $18.70 - but you would probably have to get it nickeled. Anyway, this would return your revolver to its original condition with all Colt parts. That's something to think about.

I wish you luck...

 

[jtward01]

jtward01:

Numrich/The Gunparts Corporation at (www.e-gunparts.com) catalogs a new cylinder bolt for $5.25. (Plus shipping and handling which will probably double the cost).

In any case, I'd buy a new bolt for insurance, and then slightly lower the ball (that part of the bolt that sticks up through the frame and locks the cylinder) just a bit while being careful to retain the exact shape and angle. I suspect that something like .003" to .005" will cure your problem.

A Colt nickeled backstrap (the grip part) would run you $43.25, and an ejector tube $18.70 - but you would probably have to get it nickeled. Anyway, this would return your revolver to its original condition with all Colt parts. That's something to think about.

I wish you luck...

I've already checked out Numrich. I'm just trying to get some advice on which parts to replace. The grip frame and ejector rod housing have already been replaced with Colt parts, although I did have to have them nickel plated.
I may end up replacing the trigger, bolt, hammer and hand, but since the Peacemakers, even the .22 models, were handfitted, there's no guarantee the replacements would work any better than the existing parts.

 

[Standing Wolf]

If 'twere mine, I'd send it to the good folks at http://www.cylinder-slide.com

Cheap? No. Fast? No. Good? Definitely.

 

[jtward01]

If 'twere mine, I'd send it to the good folks at http://www.cylinder-slide.com

Cheap? No. Fast? No. Good? Definitely.

I've already talked to them. They don't want to touch it.

 

[Old Fuff]

jtward01:

... but since the Peacemakers, even the .22 models, were handfitted, there's no guarantee the replacements would work any better than the existing parts.

I'd be willing to bet there wasn't any hand-fitting work on the ball of the bolt. The purpose of buying a second bolt is simply to insure a back-up is available if something goes wrong while working on the original one - which is unlikely. As it is, you can cock the hammer, but it has a slight catch. Removing .003" to .005" off of the top of the ball won't effect cylinder lock-up, but will eliminate the catch & drag you have now. Replacing all of the lockwork (trigger, bolt, hammer and hand, etc.) would be expensive in terms of both parts and labor for the (possibly)needed fitting. You're making a mountain out of what shouldn't be more then a 20 minute job, which I have done successfully on several occasions. But again, I wish you luck.

With that observation the Old Fuff will depart...