Colt walker shot

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Its the best you will get for your money and pretty much matches swiss performance. Too bad you missed out when BlackMZ was around...stuff could be had for 10 bucks a pound at any sportsmans warehouse or 20-30 bucks a poubd everywhere else. That stuff was sooo clean and as far as power...it was powerful so long as you compressed it, and it compressed a whole bunch. I could fill my .36 chambers with 30 grains and shove a conical on top and it would compress it and fit great. But now its discontinued and just about every black powder shooter out there is kicking themselves for not ordering 50 pounds of the stuff when they had the chance. It was amazing stuff. Something ill tell my grandkids about in like 50 years haha "oh i remember when taking a date to a movie only cost 60 dollars for tickets and snacks...and blackMz was still around and could be had for 10 dollars a pound!". I still have a stash of it that im keeping and slowly using...enjoying it in small amounts like a fine bourbon. Sigh...Alliant really did us wrong by taking it off the market...now i mainly shoot homemade black or old eynsford...but blackmz was.a way for the people of our sport to shoot a clean alternative on the cheap. But yes...you will love old Eynseford. Its clean and powerful and well worth the couple extra bucks per pound.
 
You want clean put a little hand cleaner over your loaded balls/bullets. My toothbrush and bore brushes I clean with that were black now look new. I just rinse them with water after cleaning. With hand cleaner over a loaded cylinder, Remington revolvers won't bind up.
 
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Mike 56 said:
You want clean put a little hand cleaner over your loaded balls/bullets. My toothbrush and bore brushes I clean with that were black now look new. I just rinse them with water after cleaning. With hand cleaner over a loaded cylinder, Remington revolvers won't bind up.
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The problem I have with putting anything over the ball is that it never stays there. I’ve had to add so much bees wax to my lube just to get it to not blow away when firing. I did come across these ore made wads that go over the ball. I may order them and see how they work
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Regarding “Horse Pistols” so I’m assuming the story of Captain Walker wanting a caliber capable of killing a horse not true. Story I read he was engaging the Mexican army whose mounted Dragoons were lancers. Easier to hit a horse than a man on the horse, eliminating the horse eliminated the mount lancer. Captain himself was slain by a lancer. Perhaps just another story perhaps.
Sorta like the Paterson story and the Texas Rangers first encounter with a band of Natives. Dismounting the rangers fired a volley, thinking them now busy reloading the natives charged and were met with volley after devastating volley from the new repeating arms. History according to the story teller. :)
 
Russell13, you should try lube cookies or lube disks. This will be the best way too lube your gun. Theres videos on youtube as well where people compare the barrels after shooting both methods. I use a over powder card and then a thin lube disk. I always seperate my powder and lube...never let them touch due to contaminatong. It may not contaminate them much if left for a short period lf time...but it does. When the powder stick to the lube felt wads etc...the powder obsorbs some of the oils from the lube disk/wad. When i make paper cartridges i put powder, wax paper disk , lube disk, then hard cardboard disk cut from cereal boxes. The wax paper is a thin layer that keeps the powder from obsorbing any oils out of the way lube, then a wax lube of my choice, then a cardboard card , then bullet. When the powder burns it hits the very thin lube disk and iinstantly melts it to keep fouling soft. The larger the lube disk the harder it is to melt anf coat the entire barrel. So keep it thin so that it instantly melts. The powder pressure also pushes the lube towards the card sealing the groovers from any gasses escaping along the sides of the card and bullet/ball. Gas cutting needs to be prevented due to causing poor accuracy , loss of power, and larger speed deviations. Using a thin wax disk with a card will prevent this. Also using a thin disk and card are thinner than using a felt wad and doesnt take up as much space that could be used for powder.
 
Russell13 said:
The problem I have with putting anything over the ball is that it never stays there. I’ve had to add so much bees wax to my lube just to get it to not blow away when firing. I did come across these ore made wads that go over the ball. I may order them and see how they work
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Use your wads, cookies, or filler COW filler works better with a wad between the powder and filler. You only need a little hand cleaner. If you use a wad and put a small amount of hand cleaner over your load you will know what I am talking about. Hand cleaner is 4.00 for 14oz. It does not seal the chamber it is a slick lube that melts BP fouling on contact. The dollar store sells two small squeeze bottles for a dollar.
 
Mike 56, are you using gojo or which one? Thinking about using "fast orange" brand and see how it does. Thank you for yhe tip...It really interests me. Wonder how it would do if i placed it in wax and made lube disks. Might make for a very well working lube...or a mess...either way worth the try.
 
Not fast orange I am pretty sure it gritty. I have used Goop and GoJo both work I thought Goop was a little better.
 
They have both fast orange with pumice and without. I have the "smooth" without pumice. Which goop did you use?
 
This is what they say about fast orange...which i like that it has lanolin which is very black powder friendly

"Permatex Fast Orange Pumice Lotion Hand Cleaner is fortified with aloe, lanolin, glycerin, and other skin conditioners, to gently clean the toughest dirt. The biodegradable, waterless, petroleum solvent-free formula contains no harsh chemicals, mineral oils or ammonia that can sting cuts and abrasions,"

Available with or without pumice. I have some arriving today and i will try it next.
 
If the fast orange does not have pumice I would use it. I think it's pretty much all the same. The Goop and GoJo hand cleaner I have been using are white and kinda look like mayonnaise. I bought the GoJo Hand cleaner at Walmart in Nampa Idaho. Ruger357 I have a Ruger Gp100 4in love that gun.
 
Still great shootin...atleast we know it cycles well. Hows the cylinder gap i set for you? Using a good lube on the arbor/cylinder pin and a good lube between powder and ball/bullet and youre set to shoot for a long stretch without binding
 
Comanche the reputed only survivor of the Custer Hill fight had 7 bullet wounds and lived a long and pampered life.
"Probably," most of the bullets were 44 Henrys which didn't have much poop to start with.. They killed a lot of troopers though.
 
Just a quick mention about the hand cleaner. I have a 5 year old tub of Goop. Just in the last few months with the container about 75% empty, I noticed some slight "weeping" with a small amount of "oil" separating from the more solid substance. I realize this doesn't prove much, but it took that amount of time for this to take place.
 
Don't store your gun in the leather holster. It will take the bluing off.
 
I once told a friend not to store his revolver in his leather holster in his safe and especially not for long. He left for work in the oil fields and came back 7 months later to a rusted gun. He was so mad...but not as bad as his wife being 4 months pregnant. All i could say was "i told ya...i warned ya..", and that was to both situations he came home to.
 
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