COMPLETE-AR noob-considering

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bantam9

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PSA has what seems to be very good deals for entry level kit(s). I'm assuming they're entry level, seeing the price. Free shipping to boot.
School me on this kit.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...ainless-mid-length-1-7-freedom-rifle-kit.html

All that I know of AR's is that they look like a heck of a lot of fun to shoot. Getting to an age where if I'm gonna get one, I may start thinking about it.
Any downsides to this kit. Is SS barrel preferrable?? Any better deals out there?
Is S&W entry level completed the way to go???

bantam
 
For the money its a perfectly acceptable entry level AR kit. It will go bang. Is it military/Socom/Armchair Ninja spec? No. But it should reliably go bang.
 
That's a good kit and it will last you for a long time. SS barrels are a bit oversold. At the high-end they are the most accurate barrels sold. At the low end (that is not to say they are bad though) they lack any accuracy improvement over a basic non-SS barrel. Building an AR is a good learning experience and almost always results in a functional rifle. The most you will need is some basic tools (pliers, hammer, punch set), a lower vise block and a buffer tube wrench.

With a S&W, you'll get an assembled rifle but will not have an option of mid-length (slightly different gas system and most importantly longer handguards) at that price point. Both are good, but I'd recommend the PSA.

I'd look at this one too. Same price and it will have Magpul MOE furniture, which most people prefer over mil-spec. http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...ess-steel-moe-freedom-rifle-kit/category/313/
 
I'm also an AR newbie and bought a Smith&Wesson M&P sport and love it. This rifle will certainly do everything I want to do, which is blast away at paper at the range.

I got mine for $640 out the door.
 
You will need a stripped lower, which will cost around $100 from a local dealer, and some mags.

Is it the best of the best? No. Is it an affordable way to get into the AR game and see if you like the platform? Sure
 
I'd look at this one too. Same price and it will have Magpul MOE furniture, which most people prefer over mil-spec. http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.../category/313/

+1

Unless you really like M4 furniture :)barf:), the MOE kit at the same price is a no-brainer. If you don't want stainless, they have a phostphated MOE kit also at $399, or an MOE kit with the hammer forged & chrome lined lightweight barrel for $559:

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...o-1-7-ultra-light-moe-defender-rifle-kit.html

If you can spare the extra $160, it's definitely a better kit. The NiB BCG is nice from a cleaning and aesthetics standpoint, and I do believe there is a difference between the Freedom line fire control groups and the PSA premium ones (cleaner trigger).

Splitting the difference is a premium MOE kit with a government profile barrel and phosphated BCG (still a CHF and CL barrel):

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...to-1-7-a2-profile-moe-rifle-kit/category/313/

That said, I have two of the stainless "Freedom" uppers, and they have both been trouble free with pretty dang decent accuracy.
 
None of those kits include rear sights, optics, sling, or mags either.
So figure at least another $75 -$500+ for that.

rc
 
Those MachIV posted are great options too. Really, take your pick. None of them are bad rifles.

I like the lightweight barreled ones because they handle and carry better, but I've seen some real good accuracy results from their stainless ones. The gov't profile barrels are kind of a goofy, needlessly front-heavy profile, but hey, they shoot.
 
Don't pay $100 for a lower. I sell consecutive serial numbered forged lowers for $65/each locally.

I'd recommend a build rather than buying a complete rifle. You really get to know exactly how the rifle works that way.

Be sure to check out Anderson Mfg. They are running a labor day sale 15% off and free shipping over $500.
 
Eh for a few hundred more you can get a top tier offering from colt or bcm if you know how to shop.

It's a buyers market and there is no reason to settle for PSA.
 
Eh for a few hundred more you can get a top tier offering from colt or bcm if you know how to shop.

It's a buyers market and there is no reason to settle for PSA.

That is a point. Pony up (get it?) $300 more and you can get a Colt 6720.
 
With the deals the way they are now I'd say skip the Colt and get a BCM middy. The complete uppers are a tad over 500 with bcg and gf charger, but you also get a free comp. Then you can get a complete blem lower, gunfighter stock and all, for 307 shipped if you know where to look.

You will have a rifle that you could take to battle and will be worth more than you actually paid for it on the resale market.

Even the Colt would be a great investment, but you are stuck with a carbine gas system, which is just stupid on a 16 incher.

Don't dork around building your own for a first AR - buy a quality rifle and get to know the platform first. THEN after you've had some experience, build exactly what YOU want.

Please trust me on this.
 
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Good start and it looks like the upper ships complete already so that cuts some work on the build. As others stated you will need some tools, although the vice block isn't absolutely needed. Would make it easier, but lower can be finished without a vice. Unless you already have em, just budget for a punch set, hammer, and armorers wrench when comparing price against a complete rifle. Needle nose pliers'd also help for holding the tiny pins. Not hard so long as you have a little mechanical aptitude and you can get step by step instructions with pictures and or video guides online.

Edit to add: and a stripped lower, that'll run anywhere from 70-200+ and generally right around 100-125 all depending on what you want and where you buy. Remember that's the "gun" so anything online/out of town will have to deal with shipping to a local FFL for transfer.

I don't know how people consider a few hundred more to be "top tier" even on sale. Solid mid range compared to the entry level sure...but not top end. Top tier to me means the very best not just solid.
 
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The biggest issue is that it will NOT be your only AR. ARs have a way of multiplying. The only barely possible way to avoid it is to buy everything necessary to build the gun exactly the way you want it at the beginning and throw everything you did not use in assembly into the trash bin.. Otherwise, you WILL upgrade various parts, eventually ending up with a spare parts drawer that "ONLY" needs a lower receiver to make another complete gun. Using the things you've learned, you will, of course, buy a "better" lower receiver the second time which turns out to be SO much better that you need to upgrade the second one, too, leaving you with a drawer full of parts that need.....

I built three of them this way -- so far.
 
Compared with other rifles or shotguns, the AR 15 requires relatively few specialized tools. I ended up building one from scratch and rebarreling a problematic upper. If the upper is assembled AND headspaced with the bolt, then the lower is a piece of cake. Castle Nut wrench, a center punch for staking the castle nut (assuming adjustable type stock), some long needle nose pliers, and a set of roll pin punches. A Robogrip or similar wide wrench with good padding on the jaws also helps on starting small roll pins such as the trigger guard. A cheap set of files and pool chalk can also help if a specific problem such a burr in the magwell happens. Of course you also need a hammer for the center punch but is not normally otherwise needed. However, a small soft faced hammer--nylon, rubber, etc. can be used to good effect judiciously.

Oh, and one last thing, buy an AR 15 assembly manual--see Amazon (yeah I know YouTube videos exist--the problem is figuring out which are useful--some information put out there is a) dangerous, b) foolish, and c) ill-advised, and d) risk damage to your components). I use manuals with good pictorials and tips that can rest beside you at the bench and are indexed. This is my personal choice. At my workbench, I do not want a computer, smartphone, tablet, because of risk of damage--furthermore, often I waste more time viewing the online video than I would simply turning to the page needed.

If you are a visual learner instead of reader, then get a dvd or other visual information from the American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) or some other authoritative source such as a working gunsmith rather than reliance on the quality of You Tube videos. You Tube videos can be useful but you need a sufficient knowledge base to evaluate whether or not the information is useful in the first place. Use an authoritative source first either manual or video and then watch to your heart's content.

One minor tool is a gun oil precision applicator with the long slender metal tube filled with the gun oil of your choice. The lower receiver tends to get dirty and collect crud--the easiest is blow out with compressed air what you can and then hose it out with something like gunblaster solvent and the like. After doing so, you will need to reapply oil to the working parts of the lower. A small drop or two is all that is necessary thus a good applicator helps. You can use the small plastic tubes that come with some oils but I tend to misplace them as it is difficult to store the oil with them attached.

Eventually, the Peace River or Wheeler upper receiver clamp for a vise helps significantly with upper receiver work and cleaning and I can also recommend the Magpul magazine well vise tool especially for quick and dirty jobs. The Magpul vise block secures on the barrel extension rather than putting pressure on the upper. Not crazy about the plain upper receiver blocks that use takedown pins only for securing--if not careful you risk ruining a receiver if not careful. For barrel work, you will need a good solid barrel wrench--don't go cheap here. A standard, well secured, cheap 3-4 inch jawed shop vise is always useful--do not need a wilton but the cheapo harbor freight is more than sufficient--some woodworking vises that are secured can work as well.

If you build a lot, then specialized tools exist to help you--get a Brownells catalog (cheap and informative) and then you can figure out whether you need a specific tool. Good luck.
 
A lot of info to absorb !!

You guys are great. Way more replies than I thought.
I would love to buy off the rack, but I just saw the prices on kits and thought, it's almost a no brainer for $399 plus a stripped lower(+free ship) for someone somewhat mechanical.

The price point grabbed me. Now I need to figure out just what route to take.
 
If price point is what you're after ('course, we still want quality), you might also consider the new Ruger 556?

Getting good reviews, seems to have good fit / finish, and I think the street price at our local gun shop is $599?
 
I own some PSA stuff and I have no complaints. I paid $550 for the first AR I ever purchased in 1989(?). It was an Olympic Arms 11.5" with a stainless barrel and giant flash hider to make it legal. :eek:

You can now have a complete AR15 for <$500 (and that's before we adjust for the considerable inflation since then) that is better in every way than that Oly. So you are not only getting more gun with a weaker dollar - you're even paying less of those weaker dollars than I did.

This is a deal - a tremendous deal. I know there are a lot of people out there who are living paycheck to paycheck and $100 is a lot of money to them. The PSA is going to be a good, functional AR that is a great value for those people. If you have the budget and inclination to buy $4000 worth of ammo and train hard, the Colt or BCM is probably worth the step up; but you won't be disappointed by the PSA.
 
PSA

My upper and the lower parts kit are from PSA. The lower is from Spikes Tactical (local to me) and then I have some BCM parts sprinkled in. I have about 600 rounds through it and no problems. This is my first. It feels solid and performs well within my expectations. I would have no problem using PSA for another build.

I tried to use all spikes tactical parts because they are a local business and make a good product, but at the time they had such a back log I couldn't even get a parts kits let alone a upper.

Good luck, building a rifle is a way to go. That way you are familiar with the parts and operation and can service it if needed.
 
Looks like a great kit to me.

The great thing about an AR is, if later you find you want something
a little different, no problem. Just change it.

Do you have a rear sight or optic in mind?
 
You will have a rifle that you could take to battle and will be worth more than you actually paid for it on the resale market...

...Please trust me on this.

There is a lot of silliness floating around the AR world. This is a prime example. BCM, for example, makes a quality product that will last longer than a PSA Freedom, specifically the barrel. If you plan on shooting 10,000+ rounds, and don't want to change out a $150 part (the barrel) eventually, a BCM upper is a good option. A BCM lower for $300+ dollars however is a joke and is a $20 buffer tube different than the PSA option.

BCM also markets themselves heavily as a "professional" option, to the point where people can't see the product past the hype. The PSA kit is great, and you'll be able to shoot a mountain on ammo out of it before having to replace any major parts. The BCM's barrel will last longer due to it being chrome lined and will also come with a very nice charging handle, which you'll probably want to upgrade anyway if you want to run and optic. OTOH, if you plan on a high round count PSA offers uppers with a chrome lined barrel as well, for aboyut $100 more and still cheaper than a BCM. Marketing isn't free after all...
 
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