Complete cleaning

[Abran]

May not be the right part of the forum, but figured this would be the best knowledge base

I have a dental ultrasonic cleaner(work was gonna throw it out so I brought it home to tinker with, turns out it works just fine...). What cleaning solution do y’all recommend both for cleaning brass and firearms?

so far I used a hot water/dawn dish soap combo that worked very well for both, but caused rust spots on my pistol parts (Ruger mark 3 blues standard and sig 938). Nothing that didn’t wipe away with an oil soaked paper towel immediately after removing from the solution, but still... I was planning on using simple green, as an army mechanic that stuff is a miracle, but have heard it’s the devil for aluminum and hard coat anodized parts

I want to run my s&w M&p pro and the 1911 I inherited through the ultrasonic but wanted to ask for advice before I potentially damage anything... especially the 1911, it belonged to my dads best friend, when he passed away 4-5 yrs ago my dad got it. My dad passed away two months ago and that’s how I got it... I don’t want to think about doing anything that may possibly damage that gun...

 

[Kp321]

I have had very good luck with Brownells D’Solve cleaner. It can be diluted to make it more economical and still cleans good.

 

[beag_nut]

Mechanically, it doesn't matter too much what is in the solution, as long as some of it is a detergent (to prevent re-deposition of the oils/dirt on the metal parts). NOBODY has better formulas than Hornady. Their stuff lets the machine do the work, and allows easy rinsing. Their 40:1 mix ratio is very endurable, cost-wise.

 

[JJFitch]

Lyman and RCBS also make a cleaning solution. You can upload the instructions for their U/S cleaners to get some pointers. I can't think of a situation where an U/S cleaner would be necessary for cleaning a 1911! The only time I've used mine is for some revolver cleaning that worked really well.

Smiles,

 

[wiscoaster]

Keep us posted on what you use and how it works for you.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I use a simple green solution. Water soluble and cleans real well. Blow parts off when done and then lightly oil 'em with Break Free CLP.

 

[MarshallDodge]

I use Simple Green concentrate, dilute it down with water around 10:1, and put a couple drops of dish soap in it. I've cleaned all kinds of stuff...guns, carburetors, brass, jewelry...and rinse it really well in warm water when done. There have never been any issues with rust or corrosion, and I make sure the gun parts are coated in a thin film of oil or CLP before putting them away.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I use Simple Green concentrate, dilute it down with water around 10:1, and put a couple drops of dish soap in it. I've cleaned all kinds of stuff...guns, carburetors, brass, jewelry...and rinse it really well in warm water when done. There have never been any issues with rust or corrosion, and I make sure the gun parts are coated in a thin film of oil or CLP before putting them away.

And it's also easy to dispose of, not like petroleum products. I get the stuff I use by the gallon at our local Farm & Fleet. Called "Jungle Jake" . Kind of a hokie name, but it works pretty well. I use it full strength on gunked-up gun parts.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've used the Simple Green for cleaning parts. You have to dry and oil soon after you remove the parts to prevent rusting. I've since switched over to Ed's Red gun cleaning mix.Google Ed's read for the formula. You only need to add Acetone or MEK if your dealing with shotguns for plastic wadding. Otherwise leave it out. lanolin is add for a metal protection. I normally don't add it. If you use a Syn ATF the odor is very low.

For brass whats used most is Citric acid( LimiShine), ArmorAll ( or dawn) mixed with hot water, some add salt. Or use one of the commercial brass cleaning solution designed for cleaning brass. Note that If you over do it with the acid it will leach out the Zinc weakening it. I would stay away from Ammonia products like Brasso.

 

[rdnktrkr]

I also use Eds Red in my ultrasonic cleaner, I disassemble the gun and insert frame and slide in heated solution and run for a couple of cycles, while that is going I run a cleaning patch through the barrel and then put it in with everything else and run it 2 more cycles, wipe everything down with micro fiber cloth, lube and assemble. I don't put wood grips in it. I pour mix into jug filtering it with a cone coffee filter in a funnel.
For brass, I mix everything up in a gallon jug and load up "glass beakers" with brass and solution, run about 4 cycles then filter used solution into another beaker and run fresh water in first beaker then cycle everything, I have about 10 or 12 beakers I use, I use the mix for 2 cleanings then replace. My solution now is teaspoon of Lemi-shine, capful of Dawn and capful of car wash and wax in a gallon of water.

 

[ballman6711]

Simple green is an amazing cleaner, but it will absolutely remove an anodized finish. Don't know about using it on aluminum, never tried that.

chris

 

[edwardware]

Simple green is an amazing cleaner, but it will absolutely remove an anodized finish. Don't know about using it on aluminum, never tried that.

Based on the Googles, SimpleGreen will remove the sealant and die from anodizing with enough soak time, but won't reduce the anodizing (structural surface layer) itself.

In other words, it won't ruin the part structurally, but will strip the color.

 

[ballman6711]

In other words, it won't ruin the part structurally, but will strip the color.

edwardware is 100% correct in that it will remove the color (if soaked long enough) but will not affect the actual anodizing of the part.

I should have been more clear in my post. Thanks for the correction.

chris