230RN
2A was "political" when it was first adopted.
I purchased an R&D .45 Colt ("Long Colt") conversion cylinder for a steel-framed Uberti 1858 Remington replica, and per the instructions, it may be necessary to file away a portion of the frame to make it fit.
The original percussion cylinder measures 1.998" in length and the R&D conversion cylinder measures 2.005" in length.
Therefore, 0.007" of metal must be removed somewhere for the conversion cylinder to fit in the gun.
The instructions indicate that "Some revolvers may need a small amount of metal removed from the frame (use a file or Dremel [sic] tool) to eliminate interference", with a diagram indicating that the metal should be removed from the area of the frame where the ram of the loading lever protrudes into the cylinder space.
This, of course, means that the original percussion cylinder will have an additional 0.007" of longitudinal play when it is replaced on the gun.
I do not intend to use the percussion cylinder very often, which is why I got the conversion cylinder.
I am reluctant to cut away on the frame of the revolver, and have access to a precision machinist's skills to face off the replacement cylinder the required 0.007" in a lathe.
This, of course, would require:
(1) cold re-bluing of the conversion cylinder face
(2) use of an 0.007" shim (washer) on the original percussion cylinder to restore the correct longitudinal dimensions while installed in the gun (to avoid fore-and-aft play).
There appears to be sufficient cylinder-to-barrel throat gap with the conversion cylinder that removal of this .007" on the frame of the revolver will still allow rotation of the cylinder with no problems. (I cannot measure this gap directly until the cylinder can actually be placed into the gun.)
Question:
In THR's collective experience, would it be better to remove this 0.007" from the frame (per the instructions), or from the cylinder itself?
At this point, my preference would be to face off the conversion cylinder to match the dimensions of the percussion cylinder, rather than remove metal from the gun and correcting the dimensions of the percussion cylinder with a handmade 0.007" shim (washer).
Thank you for your advice,
230RN
(I did a preliminary search for "conversion cylinders," but nothing immediately relevant seemed to turn up.)
The original percussion cylinder measures 1.998" in length and the R&D conversion cylinder measures 2.005" in length.
Therefore, 0.007" of metal must be removed somewhere for the conversion cylinder to fit in the gun.
The instructions indicate that "Some revolvers may need a small amount of metal removed from the frame (use a file or Dremel [sic] tool) to eliminate interference", with a diagram indicating that the metal should be removed from the area of the frame where the ram of the loading lever protrudes into the cylinder space.
This, of course, means that the original percussion cylinder will have an additional 0.007" of longitudinal play when it is replaced on the gun.
I do not intend to use the percussion cylinder very often, which is why I got the conversion cylinder.
I am reluctant to cut away on the frame of the revolver, and have access to a precision machinist's skills to face off the replacement cylinder the required 0.007" in a lathe.
This, of course, would require:
(1) cold re-bluing of the conversion cylinder face
(2) use of an 0.007" shim (washer) on the original percussion cylinder to restore the correct longitudinal dimensions while installed in the gun (to avoid fore-and-aft play).
There appears to be sufficient cylinder-to-barrel throat gap with the conversion cylinder that removal of this .007" on the frame of the revolver will still allow rotation of the cylinder with no problems. (I cannot measure this gap directly until the cylinder can actually be placed into the gun.)
Question:
In THR's collective experience, would it be better to remove this 0.007" from the frame (per the instructions), or from the cylinder itself?
At this point, my preference would be to face off the conversion cylinder to match the dimensions of the percussion cylinder, rather than remove metal from the gun and correcting the dimensions of the percussion cylinder with a handmade 0.007" shim (washer).
Thank you for your advice,
230RN
(I did a preliminary search for "conversion cylinders," but nothing immediately relevant seemed to turn up.)