Crack in a wooden bow, is it serious?

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NoirFan

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Hello all, I have an ash/walnut flatbow which has not been shot for two years. I recently took it to the range and noticed what feels like a small hairline crack perpindicular to the bow limb. It's very hard to see, but if you run your fingernail down the limb it will slightly *catch* on a small rough area where it feels like a thin layer is beginning to lift away from a layer under it. The bow is finished with something called "FlaxWax" but the maker has since gone out of business so I don't know anything about it.

My question is, does this sound serious to you experienced wooden bow shooters out there? Should I give this bow some kind of treatment - linseed oil maybe - before taking it back out to the archery range?

Also, if there are any traditional wooden bowyers in central Indiana, I would be willing to pay a fee to have this bow examined by more experienced eyes. Please PM me if interested.
 
Is it completely wooden with an Ash back and Walnut belly or does it have fiberglass on the back/belly?
 
if you think the wood is cracked, I'd retire it. I have a wood/fiberglass laminated bow that has some very fine cracks in the glass. If they weren't parallel to the grain of the glass, I'd be retired.

perpendicular cracks are bad.
 
Is it completely wooden with an Ash back and Walnut belly or does it have fiberglass on the back/belly?

Hi, completely wooden, no fiberglass
 
+1

Dangerous to continue using it.

If it lets go at full draw, the broken limb can flip around and stab you in the head or arm!!

In other words, you could shoot your eye out!!

rc
 
Is the crack in the ash or walnut? Back or belly? You might be able to save it.

Hi, it is in the ash backing, facing away from me when strung. Can it be saved?

Thanks for all the replies, but I really hope you guys are not correct because that bow's been with me a long time.
 
First made sure if it is just a crack in finish from being stretched or if it is an actual crack/splinter lift in the wood

You can:

1: Remove the ash backing and reapply another wooden backing. Black Walnut isn't the strongest belly wood so you should go with another ash or maple backing. Bamboo or hickory would probably crush the BW. I actually did a how-to/build-a-long of this process two years or so ago, but it only works with pva glues (white glue, wood glue) If both backings where prepared correctly you'll probably just have to scrape a little to adjust the tiller.

2: Apply a rawhide backing. You can order rawhide backings from various places. You'll probably have to scrape a little to adjust the tiller.

3: Soak super glue into the crack and then tightly wrap cord around the area of the crack. I have the least amount of confidence in this fix, but it has worked for others.

4: Patch it with sinew. Using real hide glue or knox gelatin (or unflavored store brand) and real sinew apply a layer of sinew over the crack and then wrap the ends by wrapping more sinew around the bow. It'll made the bow slightly stiffer in that area but hopefully that's all you'll have to do. This is the method that I would attempt. It's a lot easier/quicker than 1 and 2 and I feel more dependable than 3.

I'm not a professional. This is merely my opinion based on making bows for a few years. Do what you want at your own risk.

You can go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a straight grained red oak 1x2 that is 6 feet long. It'll cost you about $6. You can make a rather nice bow from that with just a few had tools.

Hope it helps

john
 
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