Crimp/No-Crimp Garand Ammo

Status
Not open for further replies.
:rofl:

There is more to properly setting your size die for a particular rifle than just dropping the case into a go/no go gauge, but unless you just have to have the 'inth degree of accuracy, I wouldn't bother. A rack grade Garand is not one that would benefit from it, either, I'd just FL size my brass and go with it... because that's what I do.

I agree with that. Everyone should take those esoteric bench rest techniques and throw them as far out as you can, in front of the firing line when loading for semi auto's. You want plenty of clearance between the case and chamber, and techniques like neck sizing or partial neck sizing will, in time, result in an out of battery incident if you use Federal match primers in your Garand or M1a. First and foremost you want safe ammunition that will feed and extract each and every time.

You cannot measure chamber headspace with a cartridge headspace gauge and fired case because in a semi auto the case is stretched on extraction. You can in a bolt rifle. If you want to determine the exact chamber headspace of your rifle you will have to do with with chamber headspace gauges. And that is not necessary, as long as the rifle accepts the Go and rejects NO GO it is safe. Cartridge head space is best measured by cartridge headspace gauges, and to reduce the base to shoulder distance, you screw down the die. But, I have several Lee sizing dies that were so long that even when they touched the shell holder, I could not size a case to cartridge headspace gauge minimum. What I had to do is grind material from the bottom of the sizing die. I then sized a case, used a case gauge to measure the base to shoulder distance, and keep grinding and sizing until I had a sizing die that sized a case to gauge minimum.
 
:rofl:

There is more to properly setting your size die for a particular rifle than just dropping the case into a go/no go gauge, but unless you just have to have the 'inth degree of accuracy, I wouldn't bother. A rack grade Garand is not one that would benefit from it, either, I'd just FL size my brass and go with it... because that's what I do.
To be clear, I personally recommend at least gauging post-FL-sized brass in a Wilson type case headspace gauge, because even FL sizing will leave some brass long to the shoulder/datum point due to spring back, differences in brass, etc.

In semi autos with floating firing pins it’s a safety issue with very serious consequences if the stars align the case is a tad long and the primer is a tad proud and tolerances stack and you get an OOB detonation or slamfire. Even with the sizing die touching the case holder some brass won’t pass the gauge after sizing. You CAN get more setback by turning in the die another quarter turn or however much your press will allow, but there’s a limit.

I get about 5-10% of my Garand brass that gauges long after sizing and needs another trip through with the die turned down further. I don’t anneal, though.
 
I don't crimp any of my brass in .308 Winchester or 30-06 Springfield. I use mostly RCBS dies with a few Lee tossed in the mix. Some fancy dies but have loaded ammo which shot just fine in matches with basic dies too. I clean the brass and size the brass and each piece I check using a RCBS Precision Mic.What I want is uniformity, I want each piece the same and I keep lots together. Once sized uniform I trim and make all the lengths uniform. I prime till my primers bottom out in clean pockets. I chamfer the case mouths and charge the cases keeping my charges uniform and finally I seat my bullets and again uniformity counts.

I have never seen a need to crimp and matter of fact I do not crimp any bottle neck cartridge.

Ron
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top