Allen One1
Member
If you can see the crimp it's enough. The one on the right above looks good to me.
lol, so true, but it doesn't need much roll crimp, so it's all good.The referenced Speer LSWC has probably the smallest, least 'user-friendly' groove
It certainly influences the crimp. If you go look at some roll crimps in the crimp thread you'll see how the case mouth likes to form to the crimp groove in hard cast bullets That soft Speer may not influence it much.The crimp groove in the bullet plays a big role in your success
Good deal! You may want to measure them, just so you know how consistent they are, and the average length. Remember, your current expander, seat depth and roll crimp is based on this length, not necessarily the trim length. It’s good to keep records of all this for future work.This is my once fired federal brass, so - I'm giving them the benefit of doubt on case length.
That's pretty common for me with a medium to heavy crimp I give them a wipe with a rag, I don't want the brass hair going through my barrel.several of them had a tiny little string of brass hanging off the end, like a thread. Has to be shaved brass
You could work up the load, I would do it in 1/10 grain increments so I didn't miss out on a good load. I load 5-10 of each and shoot from a rest over a chronogragh and check for leading and COL change between loads. One of my favorite loads for a 158gr cast SWC is 4.2gr of W-231 and a standard primer.shoot - speer lists the start charge for that bullet at 3.8 grains
Doing a little internet searching, found some info that the little brass thread is common with newer brass - often caused by not chamfering and de burring the case mouth. I have no actual experience with this other than, I was loading once fired brass that I did not chamfer or de-bur. I did check the spec on how much the case was flared and it was well within the spec in the die directions. The crimp did not look too strong, so - my best guess would be the little thread is from not doing a quick job with the de-bur/chamfer tool.That's pretty common for me with a medium to heavy crimp I give them a wipe with a rag, I don't want the brass hair going through my barrel.
Your load is pretty light you may get away with less crimp, less is more sometimes.
I trim all of my revolver once, and then deburr the outside of the case mouth and chamfer the inside. This is a big plus for taper crimping plated bullets, besides just being good case prep.Doing a little internet searching, found some info that the little brass thread is common with newer brass - often caused by not chamfering and de burring the case mouth. I have no actual experience with this other than, I was loading once fired brass that I did not chamfer or de-bur. I did check the spec on how much the case was flared and it was well within the spec in the die directions. The crimp did not look too strong, so - my best guess would be the little thread is from not doing a quick job with the de-bur/chamfer tool.
Me too, unless it is a batch of new all same brass that is very consistent in length, but I still chamfer and deburr it.I trim all of my revolver once, and then deburr the outside of the case mouth and chamfer the inside. This is a big plus for taper crimping plated bullets, besides just being good case prep.
lots of good info here - taking in a lot, gives me a little basis for doing some testing with the dies, probably just cases and bullets to get a feel for it for a while, this is the bullet type from speer 158 grain LSWC
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