Custom gun case

[ryans63]

I am making a custom case for my pistol and I am cutting out a “hole” in the foam that is the same outline and deep enough so the gun doesn’t sit above the top of the foam. Basically I am making a recessed hole in the foam that my gun will sit in. I then want to cover the foam with a nice soft felt fabric so it kinda looks like this:

http://www.cal-graf.com/coltoak.jpg

but I don’t want the felt to have any creases in it like this case does. How do I cover the recessed hole and not have the felt wrinkle/crease like this case does, I would like to use only one piece of fabric so there are no seems or lines you can see because I used to separate pieces of fabric. Meaning I want it all to be very smooth with no wrinkles/creases/lines you can see that it is not all one piece of fabric. How do I do this???

 

[Rembrandt]

Not sure it can be done. The photo you show has wrinkles, some of the cases I have also have them. I have seen the custom upholstery guys use steam/stretching/adhesives on leathers and vinyls to shape the material. With most material they use two piece construction and a welt along the transition point.

 

[browningguy]

It's hard to get glues to really stick to foam, but try spray fabric adhesive. You will probably need to remove the foam from the case, spray the back of the fabric, lay it in place with the pistol set on top in the cutout. Then pull the fabric to the edges to get it flat, cut the corners of the fabic and lay over the side. When cutting the fabric at the corners you will need to cut it to the corner of the foam to avoid a lumpy corner. Start at the corner of the fabric, then cut straight to the corner of the foam.

 

[0007]

A lot of those fancy gun cases don't use actual fabric for the liner. They use what is called "flock". It like fabric that has been ground up. You lay down glue and the spray the flock over the wet glue. The flock sticks and, "voila", fabric without wrinkles. You might find it at an arts and craft store.

 

[markallen]

With fabric your trying to take a two dimensional fabric and conform it to three dimensions. without cutting and sewing panels, which would be unsightly, you will have wrinkles. You can limit the amount of wrinkles by gluing the fabric to the foam. The best glue for that job is 3M # 74, Foamfast cement. This is a contact cement, but will allow the foam to give under pressure without braking contact between the two.
If you go the the fabric route, just spray the outside area away from the gun contours. Foamfast will bleed under heat, as in 120 degrees and above. If you make a mistake and need to move the fabric after its been glued, soften it up with a hairdryer. but be CAREFUL this glue is FLAMMABLE. Too much heat and you will loose your eyebrows. And spray in a well ventilated area.
Don't make your outline cuts at 90 degrees, cut them at 45 degrees this will limit the wrinkles. Also limit the detail, too much, and wrinkles again.
You can use an electric knife to cut the foam, and don't try to cut from one solid block of foam. Layer it. For instance, take a piece of foam almost the thickness of the object, outline it, and cut completely through the foam. Then glue that to a solid piece of foam as the base. If you try to cut, or dig the outline out of solid foam, you'll never get it level at the bottom.
If you go with the flock, you will need to use a harder contact surface then foam.( pressure will cause the flock to open up showing the underlament of foam, when it's depressed) And you need to use the glue recommended for the flock.
Another way is to do this is to use Neopreme. It comes in different textures, and colors. It won't look as elegant as velvet....but. Just cut the foam the same way as above, and lay the neopreme on top, and glue the outside edge to the foam. Then when you put the gun in, it will sink into the cutout, and limit the amount of wrinkles. When the gun is remove the neopreme being four way stretch will level out again. Like I said it won't look as elegant as velvet, but it will serve the purpose. You can also spray the gun contact area with silicone to protect the guns finish, neopreme will absorb the silicone well, but keep it away from the glue are as it will soften the glue making it break contact.
Another way is to use wood like the cases pictured above. But you will have to cover each piece individually before you assemble.

 

[PTK]

How does one get around the problem of moisture and rust when dealing with cased firearms?

 

[4v50 Gary]

For showguns that aren't fired, use Rig Gun Grease. Rub it in and you won't even see fingerprints. Now, if you want the ultimate in protection, get Rennaisance Wax (Woodcraft stores carries them). It was developed by the British Museum and is used on wood, metal and leather. It's ph neutral and microcystalline in nature so once it's rubbed in, you can handle it without much fear. It's applied to outdoor sculptures too.

 

[PTK]

Would that work well for "wall hanger" firearms as well?

 

[Rembrandt]

How does one get around the problem of moisture and rust when dealing with cased firearms?

The ones I have are stored with their display cases in the safe w/golden rod. Been doing it that way for over 20 years, never a problem.

 

[jpcampbell]

0007 is right I have several Holland & Holland cases in my home collection and they are flocked.

 

[Wheeler44]

To mold felts use a thicker felt as you will lose some thickness as it stretches to desired profile. Hat shapers (mad hatters) use either starch or sugar in water then boiled to a steam. Put the felt piece over a pan of boiling starch or sugar water until pliable, place over form and gently work into profile. When the felt feels like it wont stretch anymore remove and put over over pan of boiling water again. Repeat as neccessary.

Wheeler44