Cutting the Barrel...
- Thread starter kis2
- Start date
- Status
~z
Member
Is your concern that it is shot out? For a few dollars more do yourself a favor and rebarrel it. You will be MUCH happier. But to answer your question, no it will not "hurt" anything, may not help though. Check w/ local gunsmiths as prices may vairy.
~z
~z
P.B.Walsh
Member
My gunsmith price is $65, but as stated it can vary. Why spend the money on an inch or two? I have also thought about it also, but if I cut some of my barrel off, I'd be 3-6", IMHO.
Redlg155
Member
So long as the crown is not damaged, there shouldn't be an effect on accuracy. You might consider chasing the threads or using a file to clean up the threads and either place a muzzle brake or thread protector on the end.
Karl Hungus
Member
IMO 26" is kinda long for a .308. As long as you have a decent gunsmith doing the work there should be no concern about accuracy. $60-$70 is what I've payed. If you're getting it cut down and re-threaded it will probably be a little more.
that all sounds like good news, i was worried i got myself into a mess. i'll probably start by trying to see if anyone can fix the threads on the barrel, if not maybe cut and crown at about 24"? worry about rethreading after i save the cash for the silencer 
thanks for the help
thanks for the help
P.B.Walsh
Member
Well, if it is a "here I am" just tape the muzzle over and paint right around the muzzle.
Maverick223
Member
The cut portion (on the muzzle) will certainly be silver and fairly shiny, and should be coated especially if it isn't stainless. If it is SS I would rebarrel as it will likely never be quite as accurate as a good steel barrel. Also I have been told (by reputable sources) that a 20-22" bbl is ideal for a .308, it will not affect the velocity to a great extent and will stiffen the barrel making it more repeatable (not necessarily more accurate).
P.B.Walsh
Member
How will a steel barrel be more accuate than a SS barrel?
P.B.Walsh said:
I'll always choose a stainless barrel over a mild steel (or chrome moly) one if I have a choice. When I ordered two Krieger barrels I got them both in stainless and they're more than accurate enough. This is what Krieger thinks about the stainless vs steel debate ...
Q: Which is better Chrome Moly or Stainless Steel?
A: For the most part neither one is better than the other. The only difference we find is that sometimes the chrome moly might take a little longer to break-in and might have a little more affinity for copper or seems to show it easier. In terms of barrel life and accuracy, we can find no difference.
I wonder if the accuracy debate was/is due to the way that a barrel is rifled. Krieger barrels are single cut whereas others are button rifled, broach rifled or hammer forged. Stainless steel is typically more difficult to machine since it strain hardens rapidly. I have no idea of the differences during forging, but any cutting process will be more difficult with stainless so maybe stainless barrels of old had inferior rifling. Machining processes/equipment/tools have improved so this shouldn't be an issue for quality barrel makers today.
Not a thread-jack
I've got a similar R700 with the 26" HB (SPS Varmint actually), and it too has the 26" barrel (as stated) with 1/12 Twist, but chambered in .223
I'm looking at doing a little different to mine, in that I would like a different twist. Are the Remmy's easy to rebarrel myself? I'd like to go with a 1/9 Twist so i can turn a little bit of a heavier weight bullet to shoot out further distances, and to use with larger game.
I too was looking at reducing the barrel length of mine from 26" to 20-22" instead... the twist rate would be the same, if I'm not mistaken... and as a result, would still shoot the same bullet. However, the possibility of boring the chamber to a .243 could be a viable option as well... however, the price difference is what is keeping me away from that. Any of you guys have opinions on that?!
I've got a similar R700 with the 26" HB (SPS Varmint actually), and it too has the 26" barrel (as stated) with 1/12 Twist, but chambered in .223
I'm looking at doing a little different to mine, in that I would like a different twist. Are the Remmy's easy to rebarrel myself? I'd like to go with a 1/9 Twist so i can turn a little bit of a heavier weight bullet to shoot out further distances, and to use with larger game.
I too was looking at reducing the barrel length of mine from 26" to 20-22" instead... the twist rate would be the same, if I'm not mistaken... and as a result, would still shoot the same bullet. However, the possibility of boring the chamber to a .243 could be a viable option as well... however, the price difference is what is keeping me away from that. Any of you guys have opinions on that?!
Last edited:
kis2 said:
Both the 20" Remington XCR Compact Tactical and 26" Remington XCR Tactical Long Range have the same 1:12 twist rate in .308 and 1:9 twist rate in .223.
~z
Member
Sneed, scratch the option of reboring to 243. Cost would be crazy and you would still be dealing with inferior steel of a factory barrel. Save your money, do some research on options and buy a new barrel and have a good smith install it. As a son of Texas check out Shilen, I have been quite happy with their barrels.
~z
~z
Maverick223
Member
I was referring to chrome molybdenum...people still make barrels out of mild stock? Also I was referring to factory barrels and it could be due to the type of rifling but I can't say. I can say that Krieger makes a great bbl, and I would certainly trust their SS barrels, as well as any chrome moly version that they produce.
praharin
Member
Um, 223 is 5.56mm, 243 is 6mm. I dont think changing the chamber (and bolt face) will work out well for you after the first firing pin strike.
please don't do it, for the sake of your face.
I guess you could get the entire bore reamed out, but that would probably be more expensive, with worse results than just getting a whole new barrel put on.
lefteyedom
Member
I am a member of the $100 saddle on a $10 Mule Club. that said
Have your gunsmith cut 1/2 inch off the back of the barrel and then recut the chamber. At the same time have him cut at least 1/2 inch off the front and re-crown the barrel.
The net effect is that you will have removed the areas that barrels are most often damaged throat and crown. If you want to drop your barrel length to 20, 22 or 24 inch then of course the Gunsmith will chop it off to what ever Length you want.
Have your gunsmith cut 1/2 inch off the back of the barrel and then recut the chamber. At the same time have him cut at least 1/2 inch off the front and re-crown the barrel.
The net effect is that you will have removed the areas that barrels are most often damaged throat and crown. If you want to drop your barrel length to 20, 22 or 24 inch then of course the Gunsmith will chop it off to what ever Length you want.
Maverick223 said:
Mav, let me rephrase that ... I'll always choose a stainless barrel over any carbon steel barrel if one is available. Sometimes we don't get a choice such as the barrel on my POF upper, but the barrel on my shiny new Savage is stainless.
Maverick223
Member
I am not knocking SS, if/when I get a Marlin 1895GG (actually the new SBL model) is will be stainless due to durability (but not for accuracy).
I would keep it at 26" and just have a gunsmith chase the threads and recrown (if needed) and put on a thread protector to protect the threads and crown. A 26" .308 seems like a cool thing, just a bit different and able to reach out just a bit further.
Praharin:
To answer you, I wasn't going to use the same crown or action. I am not quite that much of a newb. I am however, concerned about being able to use a heavier bullet.
I'm frustrated that Remington used a "varmint" rifle platform with a 1/12 twist when using "factory" ammo, the effective range has been only out to 200 yards (for DRT action).
The sucker is 15 pounds with all the gear, and it's not a brush gun... when I varmint hunt, I'm not moving around, mind you, but if I'm in a box blind, it's a hard gun to manuever in and out. So maybe I'll just have a smith cut 5-6 inches off, and place a crown and thread on it, so I can put the can on it that I want. Effectively making the rifle again a 26" Barrel with the can on it, but without it being illegal (ya know... whole short barrel rifle thing!).
To answer you, I wasn't going to use the same crown or action. I am not quite that much of a newb. I am however, concerned about being able to use a heavier bullet.
I'm frustrated that Remington used a "varmint" rifle platform with a 1/12 twist when using "factory" ammo, the effective range has been only out to 200 yards (for DRT action).
The sucker is 15 pounds with all the gear, and it's not a brush gun... when I varmint hunt, I'm not moving around, mind you, but if I'm in a box blind, it's a hard gun to manuever in and out. So maybe I'll just have a smith cut 5-6 inches off, and place a crown and thread on it, so I can put the can on it that I want. Effectively making the rifle again a 26" Barrel with the can on it, but without it being illegal (ya know... whole short barrel rifle thing!).
- Status
