CVA Kentucky Pistol--please help

[1KPerDay]

(2) I unscrew my bolster/drum from the barrel of my CVA Hawken and drill through the original cleanout hole and rethread it with a 10 X 1.25 mm tap.

(3) I cut the bolster for a length that will be slightly above the barrel flat when it is screwed into the barrel.

I'm confused... why are you drilling/re-threading the cleanout hole if you're just going to cut that end of the bolster off anyway?

 

[20cows]

OK Gang, here's the way I see it from here!
20Cows, correct me if I am going astray!

(1) I place an order with Dixie Gun Works for (1) replacement CVA bolster (P/N NP0905) with 10 X 1.25 mm threads and (3) SS vents (P/N NP0506) with 5/16 X 24 threads.

(2) I unscrew my bolster/drum from the barrel of my CVA Hawken and drill through the original cleanout hole and rethread it with a 10 X 1.25 mm tap.

(3) I cut the bolster for a length that will be slightly above the barrel flat when it is screwed into the barrel.

(4) I Cut a slot across the face of the cut off bolster to facilitate the replacement of the bolster into the barrel. The bolster is about 1/2 inch in diameter, so that a special wide blade will be needed. (need to match the slot width to the thickness of the blade).

(5) I Screw the bolster plug firmly into the barrel and carefully grind the plug flush with the barrel.

(6) I chase the threads in the plug with the 10 X 1.25 mm tap to insure that the threads are smooth.

(7) I insert the flash hole liner.

(8) I order a CVA replacement Flint Lock from Deer Creek (P/N LK1330).

(9) I install the lock and I now have a CVA Flintlock Hawken, a spare perc bolster and some spare flash hole liners in case I screw up!

Before I did any work on the project, I would order and have on hand ALL the parts I knew I would need to test for compatiblity BEFORE I did something I couldn't undo.

 

[20cows]

I'm confused... why are you drilling/re-threading the cleanout hole if you're just going to cut that end of the bolster off anyway?

The hole in the bolster is too large to function as a vent for the flintlock. It must be drilled to the proper size and threaded for an appropriate liner. It is easier to work on before cutting it off, because it's still big enough to hold in vice without damaging the bolster's threads. It gives you something to hold onto.

And the cleanout hole goes all the way through the bolster to the barrel chamber, that's why it's a good place to put the new vent liner. That also puts the new vent hole in the proper postion for the new lock.

 

[sundance44s]

Trap&skeet ... before ya load that pistol again ..be sure always ..i mean always pop a few caps on it before ya load it .. the cap fireing will clear out any oil hideing in the breech where the powder sets , and after cleaning i never oil mine with anything but wd40 .. any heavy oil will always be harder to dry up with the cap fireing . . cleaning is easy on these type pistols .just remove the barrel and in the sink or horse trough she goes .. just remember there is always gonna be some oil or moisture hideing in the breech ... have fun and keep yer powder dry ..

 

[1KPerDay]

The hole in the bolster is too large to function as a vent for the flintlock. It must be drilled to the proper size and threaded for an appropriate liner. It is easier to work on before cutting it off, because it's still big enough to hold in vice without damaging the bolster's threads. It gives you something to hold onto.

And the cleanout hole goes all the way through the bolster to the barrel chamber, that's why it's a good place to put the new vent liner. That also puts the new vent hole in the proper postion for the new lock.

Thanks.

 

[20cows]

Guess what I got in the mail yesterday?

Deer Creek just sent me their latest catalog. Their ears must have been burning .

I haven't had a chance to look it over yet, but at least it's here.

 

[TriggerPhinger]

Hey 20Cows, That sounds great! I guess I'll order the vent liners from Dixie and then the lock from Deer Creek unless Deer Creek has liners in their catalog. Let me know! It would be great if D.C. has all of the stuff I need!

BTW did you order the metric tap along with the vent liners from Dixie? If not, I guess I'll try harbour freight and see if they have metric taps.

I found a BP shop here and went Saturday and bought a flask and Pyrodex etc for my Remington 58. We FL boys have all the luck!

 

[sundance44s]

Trigger another good place to buy parts is ..www.trackofthewolf.com they have a good on line store .. with very good pics and good prices too , just about anythink you could need to build or replace repair .

 

[20cows]

BTW did you order the metric tap along with the vent liners from Dixie? If not, I guess I'll try harbour freight and see if they have metric taps.

I didn't use a metric threaded vent liner. Since I was going to drill the hole, I got to pick the size I wanted.

Several of the liners in the Dixie catalog were not metric. (Come to think of it, I don't know if any were metric.)

 

[TriggerPhinger]

Thanks Sundance for the Track Of the Wolf page!

20Cows,
I messed up in step (2) of my lenghty post!! The original tapped bolster hole was threaded for a metric thread (10 X 1.25 mm)! I should have said "unscrew my bolster/drum from the barrel of my CVA Hawken and drill through the original cleanout hole and rethread it with a 1/4-28 tap"!

Track of the Wolf carries replacements for the original flint CVAs with metric threads. However, they also have some with 1/4-28 and 5/16-24 threads. They also sell the tap and 28 degree countersink for the liners.