CZ 75BD trigger problem

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mick53

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hi,

i have a 75 bd (the one with the loaded chamber indicator and lanyard) that has probably a little over 800 rds through it.

i expected the trigger to get "better" the more it was fired. it has stayed the same.

with continuous light pressure the trigger has three separate "stops" it then fires right after the third "stop."

i like to shoot with the same continuous stroke on every shot, as i can with my sig and with my kahr (elite trigger).

can't do it with the cz. start with a light smooth stroke, it stops. and i have to pick up the stroke again from there, it stops. begin again, stop, begin again then it fires.

i am a fair target shooter and the whole thing is starting to psych me out when i shoot the cz. a harder pull and it sails on through but accuracy suffers.

anyone experience anything similar or have any suggestions on how to get a smooth pull out of this otherwise excellent, reliable pistol?

thanks,

mick
 
Take it to a gunsmith for a trigger job, or put a snap cap in it, and dry-fire the crap out of it.

Similar experience?

I had to do BOTH with a Witness Sport Long Slide that still had a horrid DA trigger, even after a trigger job. It took me almost a month of 300 -400 trigger pulls a night to get it where it needed to be.
 
hi walt

...yeah, that's what i figured. snap cap is th solution. trig job is out of the question. just bought a pm9 and have to slow down on the $ thing.

walt, i bet you know. what the hell is going on over at the cz forum on ezboard? i can no longer log in whether i have cookies on or not.]

it's asked me for an answer to a security question in case i forget my sign ons and then it tells me that the question is invalid.

and as we discussed over there, it is the singularly worst internal search engine i have ever encountered.

and to think i credit cared them $15 to help keep the forum going. i bet someone drank it up. it really sucks over there.

mick (or mikem at the other ????ty forum).
 
EZBoard seems to lose its mind, every now and then.

Go to EZ Board (www.ezboard.com) and try logging in there. You should then be able to link to the CZ Forum easily -- since you're already participating there.

(Trigger jobs, around here, are about $50 or a little less if there's no major work parts replacements involved. While this varies from place to place, it may not be all that expensive in your area. Ask around, and check with some gunsmiths.)
 
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The staging" or the seperate trigger clicks in your gun are uncommon, but Ive shot a couple of guns like that.

Lube the hell out of the entire hammer/sear/decocker section with the slide off of it....and the firing pin block.

The Block is the last stage you feel. I actually took some thick oil and soaked my FPB with it and ran it up and down with a pencil, eraser side, about a zillion times on one of my guns.......the staging went away.

Do use a Snap Cap for ALOT of dry firing......

After you dry fire it ALOT with lots of lube on the parts......clean it, use a good good lube on it....Miltec, etc.....and youll see alot of difference.

Shoot well.
 
I'm of mixed emotions about dry firing and also applying a lot of lube before (or as) you do it.

The intent of dry firing it to accelerate wear.

The purpose of applying a lot of lube is to prevent wear (and to overcome any roughness already there.)

Seems as though these two steps would work against each other.

I wonder if cleaning thoroughly with a solvent, removing all lubes, and then dry-firing might not be a better idea? (Then, when you're done, flush it all with solvent again, and then lube the crap out of it, as suggested.)

Any gunsmiths here an opinion on this topic?
 
Every CZ I've handled has that type of creepy trigger. I had a 75B in which it smoothed out after a thousand rounds or so and a lot of dry-firing, and have an 85 Combat in which it hasn't in twice the amount of each.

One thing that at least makes it easier to fight the creep is a Wolff reduced-power hammer spring. I used 15-pounders (the lightest they make) in both of the above guns with no misfires.

I hear Teddy Jacobson and EGW do good CZ trigger jobs. I wouldn't trust it to a local 'smith.
 
I've had several trigger jobs done on my CZs by a local smith.

If the local smith has a good reputation, what's to risk? CZ aren't especially exotic or fancy. (I'm sure the 'smith has done trigger work on similar Witnesses or Tanfoglios, even if he or she hasn't done a CZ.)
 
I must be lucky, my CZ 75 Turkish mil started out a little rough, but now is as smooth as silk. I have about 2,000 rounds through it.
 
I took a Tanfoglio-based gun to a local 'smith and he butchered it, and charged me $85 for the privilege. I know it's a sample size of 1, but there it is.

Actually I think there's a decent argument that the CZ action is relatively exotic, considering how few you see on shelves, at shows, and at the range. I bet the average 'smith sees a dozen SIG's, S&W's, and Rugers, and a hundred 1911's for every CZ or Tanfoglio they work on.
 
Re: local 'smith who butchered your CZ...

That's why I mentioned "good reputation."

A gunsmith with a good reputation should be up to the task. If not, you can always send the gun to Mike Eagleshield, the CZ gunsmith, at CZ-USA. His trigger jobs are highly touted by the folks who have had him work on their guns.

My gunsmith, who also happens to be a locksmith, is very good. When you take him an unusual problem, he almost always figures out how to make it right. Young guy, and thoughtful.
 
FIRST of all....
Walt, I bet you know. What the hell is going on over at the cz forum on ezboard? i can no longer log in whether i have cookies on or not.]

Hah! I'm not alone. I L-O-V-E my CZ's and I love czforum, but it's been acting very squirrely for me too. My other ezboard site doesn’t give me trouble, just CZF. :scrutiny:

As for gritty/creepy/stagey triggers . . . . . . My CZ-83 has THE BEST trigger I’ve ever felt/tried :D . By CZ-75BD (also a true POLICE version) is second smoothest. My PCR is a little gritty, but it's still young in its shooting career. ;)
 
Walt the theory of Dry firing, which dry means no live rounds in the chamber, is to accelerate the wear of the trigger parts......this you know.

With a heavy oil, the little micro pcs that come off of the parts as the mate or wear into each other, will carry them away and keep them away from the parts as this happens. At least in theory maybe.

If you dry fire in this fashion and then get rid of the oil with the partictles in it, clean the gun and start over with the heavy oil and dry firing...it works better for me. Its the same theory as with any "breaking in" of mechanical parts.

A new engine is the same way.......Use a good good oil, drive it 500-1000 miles, change the oil to get rid of the particles and so on. Same theory in machining..anytime your taking material away, you want to flush the particles away........you have less heat cycling and end up with a better part.

Shoot well..............
 
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