CZ Owners please HELP!

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gilfo

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Went to the range today with my new SP01 and my Rami P. Boy what a disaster, first the new SP was spitting the empty shells right back at me. The front of my shirts was black by the end of the session. Is there anything that can be done to eject the shells to the side like normal?

Now on to the Rami. Shot about 50 rds rapid fire because that is the way I think it will go if I use it for defense. Rubbed a big blister on the bottom of my trigger finger. Any suggestions, what am I doing wrong, grip, finger placement, trigger problem what. I am using the first crease of my finger because that is where my finger goes naturally, like in a SD situation. Any help would be appreciated my finger realy hurts and it took all the fun out of the range session.
Thanks
 
Ejecting shells behind you, seems to be a common problem. Most guns start throwing it to the side once you break it in. After 250+ i am barely at 100 round in my CZ75/SA so i still haven't got it fixed... If the problem persists after 250 you can tune the extractor i have no idea how to but someone will let you know...
 
don't use the crease (knuckle joint?) of your finger. i use my pad, in between the tip and the first joint.

ejecting backwards.... some people have this... after breaking in the gun (200 rounds?) it tends to go away. if not, there's info on the CZ forums to modify the ejector. basically you sand it so the ejector face that contacts the brass gets angled a little more to the right and away from you.

todd jarett also has a good video "on pistol shooting" on youtube. search it there and he talks about grip and the trigger finger placement.

hope this helps. :)
 
My SP-01 was throwing shells back at me at first. As a matter of fact, I wrote that you should keep your mouth closed while shooting so you didn't swallow one. I was using WWB ammo. I have heard that the CZ's like a little more powerful ammo to overcome the strong recoil spring. Like a 124 gr. However, I'm shooting what's cheap and that's WWB. The last time out (second hundred) it was still kinda weak but off to the side.
I like the gun though, great machining.
 
Actually, the CZ's are considered softly sprung from the factory. But I think they need a break in time. They are old school, with a cast steel frame, wiht locking lungs on the barrel, and the frame rails are long. Some modern guns don't need any break in time. For example, the Glocks I have owned have a very loose slide to frame fit, plus they only have these small tabs on the frame, so very little is touching the slide. Plus, the barrels have not locking lugs, or barrel bushings liek the CZ's.

So CZ's are tighter, and have more areas touching, all of this would add friction. Oil it up good, the shoot the heck out of it. Maybe even polish things a bit if you would like.

Also, go find you some Feochi Ammo, that stuff is pretty hot, like +p.
 
on the stronger ammo... what i've been told was that it was tested to be NATO certified using NATO ammo which is stronger? hence why they advertise the p-01 and sp-01 to be NATO certified...
 
CZs are very tight fitting, part of what makes them inherently accurate.

just run the crap out of the gun with WWB and you'll be fine. we used that for the first few hundred rounds in ours till i started reloading. now i'm shooting a weak 124grn bullet that's softer than the WWB and it's still working great.
 
You can get Pearce grip extensions for the Sprigfield Armory XD that, with a little modification, will work on the RAMI. For most people this easy modification will allow an all-finger grip, something that really helped in my case. Go to czforum.com and do a search in the RAMI section for "Pearce grip" and you should find infomation on the modification needed to make the XD extensions fit your RAMI.

Don
 
You might try an extra power CZ 75 extractor spring from Wolff Gunsprings. It might provide enough difference to change the angle of ejection and is good idea on it's own merit.
Regards,
Greg
 
the extractor spring just increases the ejection force, i don't see how it'd change angle or direction. i installed them on my guns, just makes them fly farther lol.
 
the extractor spring just increases the ejection force, i don't see how it'd change angle or direction. i installed them on my guns, just makes them fly farther lol.
It was just a thought; it might help (with the extra tension changing the timing of the ejection sequence ever so slightly), isn't costly, is reversible, and the extra power spring is not a bad idea by itself.
On the other hand: If the ejection angle doesn't change, making the empties fly further might make for some interesting shooting:eek:
Regards,
Greg
 
--The CZForum does give a simple mod with pics to redirect the ejections to the right instead of in your shirt pocket.
--Some do need a stronger ejection spring--especially for aluminum cases.. Mine wouldn't reliably shoot (aluminum) two 10rd mags without a stovepipe. The spring let me shoot one box with no problems, but I've never shot aluminum again.

Burningsquirrels: what load are you using with the 124gr? I'm shooting 124s rated at 1075 through a 4" and wouldn't mind a lighter load if it still makes power .I'm shooting production with a 75B.
 
the extra power extractor spring is something to buy with something else like magazines or other springs imo, i bought it because i was buying an SA trigger and mag springs so the $3 was 'might as well'. after installing it, i've been noted to hit my cameraman/woman with hot brass before, LOL!

i've never chrono'd my load with 124 before; i'm using titegroup with cci 500 small pistol primers. i'll get back to you later with the powder weight. my "old" USPSA minor load that was copied from another SP-01 shooter who chrono'd is a 115 grain round nose on top of... eh, i'll look at my load notes tomorrow. i'm also copying that 124 load. i don't want to be inaccurate and guess the powder weight off the top of my head...
 
How hard is this extractor swap?

Have a few flybacks every once in awhile. but mainly the shells just kind of go a few feet right. my .22 rifle flings them with force.
 
changing the extractor spring: it's held in place with one pin. look at the exploded diagram and you'll see how it goes together. basically when you drive that pin out, you must have something to catch the extractor and spring when they fly out as you remove the brass punch. clean the area with a q-tip, clean the parts, and reinstall with the new spring.

install at your own risk, and be careful if you like having a perfect polycoat finish.
 
A suggestion when gun smithing, take that blue 3m tape and tape it up around the area you are working on. That cuts down on tool mark boo boos.
 
yup, and have plenty of light so you know what you're working with... and make sure you are using the correct size punch.

don't forger to lube it up before putting it back in by the way. i use grease in that area since oil can be flung off when the slide cycles.
 
Okay, let me ask. What makes the empty fly out? I thought the extractor spring just grabs the brass and pulls it back. Doesn't the Mag spring pushing the next round up also push the empty brass out of the ejection port? Seems like I read where people were putting +10% Wolf springs in Mags to this reason. I'm not sure it was the SP-01 though.
 
the extractor pulls it back with the slide. there's the ejector, which is just a spike shaped ramp. you'll see it when you field strip the pistol. the ramp puts pressure on the brass, and together with the sprung extractor, the brass it flung out of the action.


this is the ejector off of a different pistol. this is viewed from the left side of the pistol... and that leg that sticks up and out is where the sprung ejector pinches the brass, and the brass is flicked out.

Ejector_CZ52.jpg
 
the extractor spring just increases the ejection force, i don't see how it'd change angle or direction. i installed them on my guns, just makes them fly farther lol.

It does help mine. I had the same problem on my CZ clone and stronger extractor spring does change the throw direction to the right side. I may still want to modify the ejector angle, but it is doing much better now.
 
What burningsquirrels said. The extractor is a spring-loaded kind of claw which grabs onto the rim of the cartridge case when it's fed into the chamber.

When the pistol is fired, the extractor pulls the fired case from the chamber (because the slide moves backwards and the extractor is fixed to the slide) - the base of the case is pulled backwards at high speed against the ejector (a flat-faced, spike-like protrusion fixed to the frame) which pushes against the left-side of the base of the case, pushing it out to the right out the ejection-port.

The angles on the flat face of the ejector can be modified to hit the base of the case at different places, changing the angle of ejection.
 
When the pistol is fired, the extractor pulls the fired case from the chamber (because the slide moves backwards and the extractor is fixed to the slide) - the base of the case is pulled backwards at high speed against the ejector (a flat-faced, spike-like protrusion fixed to the frame) which pushes against the left-side of the base of the case, pushing it out to the right out the ejection-port.

The angles on the flat face of the ejector can be modified to hit the base of the case at different places, changing the angle of ejection.
That makes sense. But, if the ejector spring is catching the brass, why would a stronger spring throw it farther? Maybe the slide isn't moving back fast enough, due to the low power ammo.
I agree about the Nato certified ammo, and I have heard that WWB ammo is on the weak side, but that's what I use.
 
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