De-burr new pistol brass primer pocket?

[Pit4Brains]

It's 2200 here in Az and it's 105 degrees in my garage so instead of doing any reloading tasks, I decided to look at this bag of Magtech .357 brass I just bought the other day. I measured one case and it came out to be 1.280 which is the trim length according to Hornady 8th. Max is 1.290 so should i expect pistol brass to grow?? Never had the problem before.
I looked through the primer pocket and flash hole and there is a little bit of excess brass on one side. Do I need to de-burr the inside or just load and go? This is the first time I have ever bought new brass.

 

[murf]

i would size all the brass first, then check the length. i then would trim all the brass to the same length and chamfer the inside and outside of the rim (should only have to do this once in its lifetime).

bell the mouth and you are good to go.

if you want to deburr the flash hole, uniform the primer pocket, now is the time (busy work). it's going to be in the 110's all summer long. nice way to spend the day inside with the a/c.

murf

 

[FROGO207]

IMHO if the brass is used for bench rest then yeah do everything that you can. Otherwise for regular range ammo etc I would not bother. If you feel it makes the round better then go for it. More effort into it=More quality out of it.

 

[Walkalong]

I don't worry about deburring flash holes on pistol cases. I do size new pistol brass before loading, although some folks don't. I do trim .38 Spl & .357 range brass (after sizing), because it can be quite varied in lengths. I bought 500 Starline .32 Mag brass, and it is consistent enough that all I did was size, & then deburr and chamfer the case mouths. The only flash holes I have uniformed have been 6PPC for my Bench gun. I would also do so for any serious rifle target ammo. I would not fool with pistol, because I can guarantee you I could never hold well enough to prove it helped, if it did.

 

[Sam1911]

Agree with Froggo and Walkalong. There's just not that much precision involved in 99% of handgun shooting that you'll ever see any benefit from advanced case prep work. If you're a competition Bullseye shooter, or IMHSA shooter, maybe. But for IDPA, USPSA, defensive classes, or whatever most people do with pistols at the range, there's not much point.

Sort of like doing a full "race prep" on your car tires before heading off to the morning commute. Gonna be hard to identify the benefit you're getting for all that effort.

 

[jmorris]

The only "pistol" brass I trim, debur, turn or any prep other than roll sizing is for Contenders or XP-100s but those are bottleneck cases.

 

[beatledog7]

I uniform and debur flash holes in rifle brass, but who knows if it helps. Can't hurt.

It's a bridge too far for handgun brass unless maybe for really specialized applications of exotic chamberings. I did uniform and bebur a batch of new Winchester .357 cases once, but only after a found two in which the hole was barely there.

 

[gamestalker]

I resize and trim new brass the first couple of times it get loaded. After that I just check it for length so my crimps will be consistent. But I load full house stuff all the time which requires every case to have a consistently firm crimp.

GS

 

[hang fire]

First things first, living in AZ heat zones without a evaporative (swamper) cooler for the garage is unthinkable for me.

I live over on the Colorado River where 125 degrees outside is not unusual, inside the garage it can easily reach 140+ degrees. I turn on the cooler 15 minutes before working in garage and things are good. Have never had a humidity rusting problem over the last 21 years.

Like you, I check all new brass for length, burrs &c then correct if needed. Have been pleasantly surprised as to how good the Privi brass has been and it now the only new brass I buy.

 

[Pit4Brains]

Thanks for all the info fellas! I think Ill size, trim, flare, prime and load.

[QUOTEFirst things first, living in AZ heat zones without a evaporative (swamper) cooler for the garage is unthinkable for me.

I live over on the Colorado River where 125 degrees outside is not unusual, inside the garage it can easily reach 140+ degrees. I turn on the cooler 15 minutes before working in garage and things are good. Have never had a humidity rusting problem over the last 21 years.

][/QUOTE]

Man the heat is turning on now. I have a small fan that has an evap pad on the back of it. It does ok. I keep my dies on my safe in the air conditioning just to ensure they don't rust. The monsoon is around the corner and the dew point gets pretty high here in the valley.