Detachable shoulder stock?

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desidog

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Recently i got a Pietta 1860 Army, that has cuts for a shoulder stock. I'm intrigued by the idea, but it seems that a new one costs more than the pistol itself!

If i were to find one at a reasonable price, would it be worth it, or are they a novelty item? I imagine that it puts the hammer and cap pretty close to the shooter's eye.

Your experience, comments on accuracy, etc. please.
 
I've read that it has greatly increased accuracy as it's more steady.

The idea of cap fragments flying around that close would make me a little uneasy, especially as I don't wear glasses while afield.

I've fancied the idea of how to make a stock for my Ruger Old Army, and one thing I would do is to increase the length so it's closer to what it would be when shooting the pistol free hand. I figure it also helps to put the sights back into their proper setting.
 
I have two different Italian made walnut and brass stocks..
One is a near identical copy of Colt's 1859 patent design
where the stock attaches to the frame vía the 4th
frame screw and the cutouts in the recoil shield and grip frame bottom
as on the original Colts. The other one attaches
to the frame vía a longer hammer screw and grip frame bottom. With some minor
work sanding the wooden grips this stock fits my Pietta 1851 Navy, 1860
Army AND 1858 Remmington buffalo...all with no frame cutouts needed.
Lots if fun at the range, especially the Lee Van Cleef
comments .
 
Hmm, I also have an 1851 and 1858...i assumed that the longer backstrap on the Army would preclude use on a Navy...if it can be used on three guns, that somewhat justifies spending more loot.
 
The repro shoulder stocks are very specific as to the guns that they work on. A few years ago, I bought a Pietta 1860 revolver, and then a short time later I got an Uberti 1860 shoulder stock on ebay. No way they would work together! I ended up selling the Pietta at a loss and buying an Uberti revolver, just so it would work with the shoulder stock. BTW, repro shoulder stocks, of whatever brand, are hard to find. I suggest getting the shoulder stock first, and then the gun to match, rather than the other way around.
 
What is likely worse then caps near your face, is the propensity for many to want to hold the revolver forward of the cylinder with their off hand when utilizing a shoulder stock. This is bad juju
 
That, and having the sights too close to your eye to see them properly.

Shoulder stocks went by the wayside during WWII.

And for a good reason.

They DO NOT make a handgun a carbine or rifle, by any means.

rc
 
When Colt came out with the shoulder stocks he was hoping to sell a bunch of them
to the govt. They were not well received. There are few photos of these
in use, except in use by Federal Navy shore parties. They are fun to shoot(w/
shooting glasses of course). I built a brass spur trigger guard
attachment that screws on to the bottom of the trigger guard
from a spare Remmie trigger guard to
hold with my other hand for additional safety.
 
Shoulder stocks predate the revolver. They were seen as a means of making the cavalryman's pistol a bit more accurate.

Even after WW II, the HK VP-70 had a shoulder stock holster that when attached, allowed the shooter selective fire. BTW, the VP-70 was the first polymer framed gun to hit the market (not the Glock). The Soviet Stechin (sp?) pistol also featured a shoulder stock holster. I expect that we will continue to see that concept resurrected every now and then.
 
I found the shoulder stock caused the revolver (1860) to shoot to a different point of aim. For that reason, I opted to pass it on.

But I did get one photo of it on a different 1860!

44Snubwithstock001.gif
 
I believe that the Pietta brassie buffalo with the 12"
barrel has the notch already cut for the shoulder stock grip hook.
Also I did have to do some modification to the hook to make it
work on the 1860: I added a short bushing and short piece of threaded rod
to lengthen the hook. If you search on this forum in the Walker
owners club I recall some pics posted by lionrobe with Walker using a detachable
stock of the Long Hammer screw connection type. He obviously had to remove some brass from
shoulder stock to fit the Walkers Wide frame and grips, extend the hook screw, and machine the bottom
of the grip for the hook notch. I have played around
with using a Pedersoli Howdah pistol shoulder stock on a Le
Mat and Scofield nut this is REALLY TOO SHORT!
 
I've read that it has greatly increased accuracy as it's more steady.

The idea of cap fragments flying around that close would make me a little uneasy, especially as I don't wear glasses while afield.

I've fancied the idea of how to make a stock for my Ruger Old Army, and one thing I would do is to increase the length so it's closer to what it would be when shooting the pistol free hand. I figure it also helps to put the sights back into their proper setting.
I lost most of the vision in one eye to injury related glaucoma.
You'd better believe I wear eye protection even if I'm just walking in the woods.
Put your glasses on!
 
Gary,

You left out the Beretta 93R select fire version of the service pistol.

I thought that HK 4 multi caliber and HK9 pistols that predate the VP70 were also plastic, been a while though. I disliked the VPs 20 pound trigger pull.

-kBob
 
I have fired both Remington and Colt types with the shoulderstocks. Beyond glasses, I found the need for a bandana on my face to protect my cheeks from cap fragments and blowback. The revolving carbine by Uberti is similar.

A muzzle loading rifle with a sidelock causes most debris to go off to the right. The revolver is centered on your eye, and blows straight back.
 
Kbob - you're right. Wasn't that a folder?

rcflint - good observation. Wearing a bandana around your face and safety glasses sounds like a must for those old stocked cap 'n ball revolvers.
 
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