Different S&W frames

[Stuart C.]

Hi,
I'm fairly new to S&W revolvers. I'm looking at the catalog and really can't see any appreciable difference between the medium and large frames. Can someone give me the lowdown on the practical differences between the K N and L frames? I don't want a J. Use will be LOTS of targets, limited concealed carry (scouting/hiking), home defense. The 4" 686 looks like the ticket, but am I choosing the right frame?
Thanks for any info.

 

[lesjones]

Here's something I put together on the differences between frames.

http://www.lesjones.com/posts/003804.shtml

 

[SJshooter]

The L-frame was a replacement for the K-frame, which sometimes had mechanical difficulties when shooting hot 125 grain magnum loads over time. So, the L-frame is virtually the same as the K-frame, which a beefed up forcing cone and one or two other areas of the gun that are slightly thicker - but it is hardly noticeable. These two frames share the same grips. Currently, Smith only makes the 617 and Model 10 in the K-frame, I believe.

The J-frame is the little snubby frame, although there are longer barrels on the J-frame. It will fit in the palm of your hand.

The N-frame used to be the big daddy (before the X-frame of the .500 and .460). Yes, in the photos is looks the same as the L-frame, but in your hand it is a full size bigger. Shooting .357 (normally chambered in a L-frame 586/686/619/620) from an N-frame (627, 27, 28, etc) is a joy.

 

[ugaarguy]

http://armchairgunshow.com/images/11framesizes.jpg
http://armchairgunshow.com/SWHE-info.html

 

[jad0110]

Can someone give me the lowdown on the practical differences between the K N and L frames? I don't want a J. Use will be LOTS of targets, limited concealed carry (scouting/hiking), home defense. The 4" 686 looks like the ticket, but am I choosing the right frame?

For what you describe, it sounds like you are looking for a versatile, well rounded design that does everything very well. In a S&W, it is hard to beat a good 3" K-Frame in 357 Magnum. The 3" guns are rare (2.5", 4", and 6" are all more common), but IMO it is the perfect barrel length for performing all the duties you mentioned. Unlike the 2.5", the 3" has a full length ejector rod to make spent case ejection easier. A 4" would be a good option too, but a 6" is a bit much for CCW, IMO.

As far as I know, there are 4 S&W K Frames available in 357 Mag (not all barrel lengths were offered in some models, I believe):

Model 13: blue, fixed sights
Model 19: blue, adjustable sights
Model 65: stainless, fixed sights
Model 66: stainless, adjustable sights

The finish and type of sights are a matter of your personal tastes.

Oh yeah, in a K Frame, be sure to use 357 Mag ammo of around 140 to 150 grain weight or heavier to avoid damage to the forcing cone. The lighter stuff can be used, but sparingly.

 

[dogngun]

There were problems with the K frame .357 magnum and some light weight high velocity loads back when the K frame magnums were first made, but the factory loads/powders have changed considerably over tha last 30 odd years.
I have been shooting K-frame .357 magnum Smiths with any weight bullet for many years and there has been no problem.
I'd recommend a Model 19 4" (blue, K-frame, adjustable sights) or a Model 686
(stainless, L-frame, adjustable sights) for a GP revolver as you described.
The L-frame is a slightly larger gun, has a full length lug under the barrel for extra weight, and my L-frame is the best shooting .357 Mag I have ever owned in over 35 years of hand gun shooting.
The L-frames are widely used in competetive shooting and are very solid and extremely accurate. If you won't be carrying it much, I'd get the 686.

Mark

 

[ugaarguy]

Use will be LOTS of targets, limited concealed carry (scouting/hiking), home defense.

I'm a big fan of .38 special for HD since it has far less flash & blast than the .357 mag. For target shooting .38s are your least expensive factory loaded round in a revolver (unless you find one of the few 9mm wheel guns). I think a K-38 Target Masterpiece (Model 14 after 1957) or Combat Masterpiece (Model 15 after 1957) would serve you quite well for the intended uses. The Model 67, a stainless version of the 15, is another excellent .38 special built on the KT (K Target) frame. The 4" bbl. 15s and 67s would be my first choices based on your original post.

 

[Walkalong]

I love my 4" 686 AND my 4" Model 15. ( L frame and K frame ) My 6" Mod 14 is SWEET too.

There is a big difference in overall size and wieght despite the frame similarities.

 

[christcorp]

DognGun;

I've heard similar comments about the "Early" "K" frames and early factory loads and powders. It there a time frame roughly when S&W worked th bugs out with the cone, or when factory ammo/powder started NOT being a problem any longer.

I recently picked up an excellent condition "K" frame model 13-1. The original release was the -1, so that makes this revolver dated between 1974 and 1977 when they came out with the -2. Someone did a DOB on my serial number and said mine was dated 1977. Must have been just before the -2. Anyway, I am a firm believer in practicing with what you plan on shooting with. This eliminates surprises. I will shoot some 38 specials because of the cost, but I will probably shoot mostly 357 magnums through it. The pistol is tight and passes all the tests for checking out a new revolver before buying one.

I would prefer to shoot 125g hollow points through it as a normal course of events. Is there a date or time period where the 125g was a problem? There are basically the 4 "K" frame in 357. The model 13/65 and 19/66. Both the 13&65 were started in 1974 and the 66 was in 1971, It's only the model 19 that is a bit older; 1955. So, was this primarily a problem with the early model 19's, or did it not get resolved even in the 1970's when the other 3 came out? Thx... Mike....

 

[W Turner]

My understanding is that a steady diet of 125 gr. .357 loads will cause issues with any K frame revolver regardless of version. The 140gr. and up loads don't have that issue the way I understand it. This is why the L-frame was developed. The reason had to do with flame cutting on the topstrap of the k frames, forcing cone wear (I think), and the sharper recoil impulse of the 125.gr and under loads.

Simply put, conventional wisdom says if you want to primarily shoot 125gr. magnum loads, get an L frame or be prepared for accelerated wear on your k frame.


W