Dillon 750 Primer Feed Issue

peeplwtchr

peeplwtchr

Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2019
Messages
1,608
Hi All-

I am running into an issue with primers getting stuck/rotated in the feed tube nipple. I replaced it, anyone had to fix this before?

EDIT: I tried everything in the manual.

Thanks
 

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Haven’t had the issue. But I have a part in my 750 spare parts kit that looks the same. Also have a larger diameter one which leads me to believe these are for large/small primers. Primer Magazine change instructions in the manual states to install “Plastic Tip”. Their capitalization. Perhaps yours is worn out?

upload_2023-5-26_18-43-44.jpeg
 
Sure, that’s why they come with extras. It’s the Achilles Heal of all the Dillon’s except the 650.

I have had the best luck with the knurled retainer cap, not really tight. Just rotated down with friction from one side, not even two fingers tight or even snug, just to where they make contact. Any degree of “tight” and they don’t seem to last as long.

One thing I do every time before I replace one is to ensure the primer punch/anvil is fully seated, as a high one (with cup) can destroy the plastic tip.

Like ~ :54 into this one.



There are some that have used the brass tip primer tubes for the rotary priming system on the 650 in the reciprocating machines but I have never done that myself. However, I have never set off a primer either…
 
Okay I think I got it, just did 100rds no issue. I realised the weakest part of my roubleshooting was that I was using the wrong tool to reset the priming cup height. I was using my calipers to compress it to 1.380, then retighten the set screw holding the assembly in my hand, they weren't strong enough. I put the assembly in a vice, compressed it with vice grips, then retightened the set screw. See pic.
 

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jmorris said:
Sure, that’s why they come with extras. It’s the Achilles Heal of all the Dillon’s except the 650.

I have had the best luck with the knurled retainer cap, not really tight. Just rotated down with friction from one side, not even two fingers tight or even snug, just to where they make contact. Any degree of “tight” and they don’t seem to last as long.

One thing I do every time before I replace one is to ensure the primer punch/anvil is fully seated, as a high one (with cup) can destroy the plastic tip.

Like ~ :54 into this one.



There are some that have used the brass tip primer tubes for the rotary priming system on the 650 in the reciprocating machines but I have never done that myself. However, I have never set off a primer either…
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention the brass tips,I almost bought one last week. Have you heard of them detonating or smashing primers?
 
peeplwtchr said:
Funny you should mention the brass tips,I almost bought one last week. Have you heard of them detonating or smashing primers?
Click to expand...

I have heard of people igniting primers while loading so I generally don’t do anything that might make that more likely. The plastic tip is a “fuse”. Intended to let a primer go, when something is not right vs get bound up.

I might have tried it myself but I figured out how to make the plastic tips last about 25 years before I owned a 650 and realized they made different ones for them.

If Dillon thought it was a good idea, they would probably just send one of them out for every machine I have of theirs, that’s not a 650 vs sending me free replacement tips for the rest, forever. I do tell them when I call for more if they are for one of my 4 digit presses as they are not free like the SD, 550 machines (I don’t actually own a 750 myself) and the “commercial” presses don’t carry the lifetime no BS warranty but they still send them out for free.
 
If you run into any further issues, give Dillon a call directly, they are great in troubleshooting over the phone. I’ve had to do it once or twice, and usually it was me doing something incorrectly or had something setup wrong. Excellent customer service from Dillon.
 
I've operated 10 different SDB, 550 and 650 machines over the last 20 years, loading many, many thousands of rounds. Here's what I've noticed....

► The 550/750 plastic primer nipple (unlike the 650's brass nipple) has a key that must fully seat into a hidden slot. The condition of the KEY, not the "fingers", figures more prominently into proper primer drop and dispensing. This means...
• DO NOT drop the primer tube into the primer column or the key will be damaged. Slowly lower the primer tube into place. When it reaches the bottom, rotate the tube to find the notch. The Primer Tube will fall into the notch under its own weight.

► When the Primer Tube is properly seated, the height of the incoming primer above the "don't drop a primer just yet" plunger AND the primer shuttle cup is set. But the lateral position of the shuttle cup under the Primer Tube may not be correct. Often times the cup is not being pulled back far enough. (IMHO, this is where/how primer "flipping" takes place.) This means...
• There is a set screw that determines the final position of the primer cup and this screw may need to be re-set. Traveling too far is much better than not enough.
• On at least one machine, machining burrs kept the primer cup from backing up far enough. Cleaning the burrs off the machined primer column base with a pocket knife really helped.

► Running a cleaning patch once a year through the Primer Tubes and Primer Pickup Tubes really helps. Use a standard cleaning patch on a section of coat hanger wire.

► Getting the next primer properly positioned into the plastic primer dispensing tip may vary by the weight of primers inside the Primer Tube. The weight of 100 primers may work perfectly, while the weight of 15 may become "iffy". To eliminate issues the user can add a 45ACP case atop the black primer feed rod (as seen below). On mine I also add a 180gr 40cal bullet inside. The brass case is a snug fit and glue is not usually required to keep it in place.
NVwWda2l.jpg

Hope this helps.
 
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rfwobbly said:
I've operated 10 different SDB, 550 and 650 machines over the last 20 years, loading many, many thousands of rounds. Here's what I've noticed....

► The 550/750 plastic primer nipple (unlike the 650's brass nipple) has a key that must fully seat into a hidden slot. The condition of the KEY, not the "fingers", figures more prominently into proper primer drop and dispensing. This means...
• DO NOT drop the primer tube into the primer column or the key will be damaged. Slowly lower the primer tube into place. When it reaches the bottom, rotate the tube to find the notch. The Primer Tube will fall into the notch under its own weight.

► When the Primer Tube is properly seated, the height of the incoming primer above the "don't drop a primer just yet" plunger AND the primer shuttle cup is set. But the lateral position of the shuttle cup under the Primer Tube may not be correct. Often times the cup is not being pulled back far enough. (IMHO, this is where/how primer "flipping" takes place.) This means...
• There is a set screw that determines the final position of the primer cup and this screw may need to be re-set. Traveling too far is much better than not enough.
• On at least one machine, machining burrs kept the primer cup from backing up far enough. Cleaning the burrs off the machined primer column base with a pocket knife really helped.

► Running a cleaning patch once a year through the Primer Tubes and Primer Pickup Tubes really helps.

► Getting the next primer properly positioned into the plastic primer dispensing tip may vary by the weight of primers inside the Primer Tube. The weight of 100 primers may work perfectly, while the weight of 15 may become "iffy". To eliminate issues the user can add a 45ACP case atop the black primer feed rod (as seen below). On mine I also add a 180gr 40cal bullet inside. The brass case is a snug fit and glue is not usually required to keep it in place.
View attachment 1153763

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
AWESOME! Comprehense, valuable post.
 
NC9mm said:
I have used the brass tips for small and large primersfor now over 15k rounds loaded without problems.
The plastic tips are a problem waiting to foul the system.

https://uniquetek.com/product/T1739
Click to expand...
Okay so I just tried the brass tip. Problem solved! In fact, the whole priming system runs better than it ever has, after at least 10k rounds, and 3 plastic tips. I haven't had time to think about why, but the primers even seem to seat easier and catch less. To be honest, I didn't think this brass tip would make any difference at all, but figured a $30 gamble was worth it. Too bad I bought extra plastic tips a few weeks ago. This seems to be one of those cheap high-value reloading finds. Thanks for pushing me over the purchasing edge NC9, I've known about these forever, just figured they were a vanity item.

EDIT: Now that I think about it, I believe there may be a big advantage to being able to crank the top primer tube housing fitting down tightly, which you can't do with plastic tips, because it deforms them. I cranked mine down really tight in order to let the loctite set in the correct position and alignment, and didn't loosen it before running primers. Dillon should've made these an OEM part.

I also just noticed that primers are now in the very middle of the primer seating cup every time.
 
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Dillon's over the phone technical advice is superb...give 'em a call. My personal experience with two 550B's. Rod
 
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