Fatelvis
Member
I've read here, and on other sites, how guys have reamed/modified thier Dillon powder measure to promote better charge consistency, and prevent powder bridging. Can someone explain in detail, how they did it? Thanks a bunch-
Dillon powder measure modification
- Thread starter Fatelvis
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30Cal
Member
I polished my .308 funnel--I think by pulling crocus cloth back and forth inside it. It worked great.
As far as reaming, you might need to do that on calibers with a smaller neck dia--say a .223 funnel.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=7818&
These steps should eliminate bridging.
As far as consistancy, the best way is to use a nice, repeatable, consistant stroke. I find that putting only one case on the shellplate at a time helps a lot. I also tap the side of the measure before dropping each charge.
Ty
As far as reaming, you might need to do that on calibers with a smaller neck dia--say a .223 funnel.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=7818&
These steps should eliminate bridging.
As far as consistancy, the best way is to use a nice, repeatable, consistant stroke. I find that putting only one case on the shellplate at a time helps a lot. I also tap the side of the measure before dropping each charge.
Ty
mc223
Member
Just polishing the powder funnel will help a lot. Here is a copy of my original post that lives in the stickys
Varget and the Dillon powder measure.
Over the past few months there have been a few threads about bridging and related problems with Varget and other stick powders in Dillon powder measures and small mouth cases.
I had the same problem with mine, so I set out to cure the problem. First came polishing the drop tube. Helped some, but still had an occasional mess to clean up. So I used a taper reamer to enlarge and smooth the drop tube followed by an extra fine polishing. Much better but still got a bridge about 1 in 250 rounds.
I worked at a place once that mixed chemicals. Mostly granular type stuff. They used shakers to keep the stuff flowing.
I used a small sealed electric motor and a piece of 1/2 in scrap steel mounted to the motor shaft like the one used on tumblers. This assembly was then mounted to the Dillon Strong mount and wired to a dimmer switch to control the shaking force.
Powders flow smoothly and more accuratly. And since the whole machine is vibrating there is some settling of the powder in the case, which reduces the old familiar crunch. Bullet seating seems smoother also.
This system is in place and operating. The drop consistancy is at .1 grain. That is as close as I can measure. It's not plus or minus .1 It is within a tenth.
The taper reamer I used is commonly availabe in better hardware and home centers. It was used for 223 so the small end was about 1/4 in. The big end was about 3/8. You only want to cut metal to the case mouth lip. Then polish to a very smooth finish. Iused a Dremel tool with progressively finer grit abrasive paper mounted to a peice of 1/8 bar stock with a hacksaw slit in the end to slip strips of the abrasive paper into. Then used felt bobs and jewelers rouge to fine finish.
There is also another posting that I read where a guy is using a small piece of bead chain hanging down to the opening of the powder funnel to break the bridging powder as it falls.
Good Luck.
Varget and the Dillon powder measure.
Over the past few months there have been a few threads about bridging and related problems with Varget and other stick powders in Dillon powder measures and small mouth cases.
I had the same problem with mine, so I set out to cure the problem. First came polishing the drop tube. Helped some, but still had an occasional mess to clean up. So I used a taper reamer to enlarge and smooth the drop tube followed by an extra fine polishing. Much better but still got a bridge about 1 in 250 rounds.
I worked at a place once that mixed chemicals. Mostly granular type stuff. They used shakers to keep the stuff flowing.
I used a small sealed electric motor and a piece of 1/2 in scrap steel mounted to the motor shaft like the one used on tumblers. This assembly was then mounted to the Dillon Strong mount and wired to a dimmer switch to control the shaking force.
Powders flow smoothly and more accuratly. And since the whole machine is vibrating there is some settling of the powder in the case, which reduces the old familiar crunch. Bullet seating seems smoother also.
This system is in place and operating. The drop consistancy is at .1 grain. That is as close as I can measure. It's not plus or minus .1 It is within a tenth.
The taper reamer I used is commonly availabe in better hardware and home centers. It was used for 223 so the small end was about 1/4 in. The big end was about 3/8. You only want to cut metal to the case mouth lip. Then polish to a very smooth finish. Iused a Dremel tool with progressively finer grit abrasive paper mounted to a peice of 1/8 bar stock with a hacksaw slit in the end to slip strips of the abrasive paper into. Then used felt bobs and jewelers rouge to fine finish.
There is also another posting that I read where a guy is using a small piece of bead chain hanging down to the opening of the powder funnel to break the bridging powder as it falls.
Good Luck.
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