Do I need to watch for stretching and bump the shoulder if I FL resize?

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mljdeckard

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I have accumulated enough .223 and .243 brass to start reloading them for my AR rifles. I am going to start with small-base dies, just to eliminate the guesswork of whether or not I need them.

I have not yet reloaded rifle cases enough that they have stretched enough to need to trim or bump the shoulders, I am just getting into that fun.

So I am reading up on when and how to bump the shoulders, and from what I can tell, if you just over-cam the sizing die, this does it anyway. I will get a gauge to check them, but is it not enough to just do it this way every time and not worry about it?
 
So, with that die set, how he runs them, he bumps the shoulder with the sizing die every time.

I do plan to use the .243 for distance, at least 1000 meters, but I still want to at least start with a small-base die, because I'm running through an AR-10. If I were using a bolt rifle, I might lean more towards a dedicated competition die set just to do everything the same way every time.
 
Shoulder bump is a sizing technique used for bolt rifle not simi-autos. It has nothing to do with press cam-over. It's all about adjusting your sizing die so it moves the shoulder back to your desired position. On bolts it's normally 0.001"-0.002" of the chamber, with simi's it needs to meet SAAMI spec so it will fit your chamber every time. All guns are different when it comes to gas operated guns. I have one AR (6.5CM) that is so well controlled that I only need to move the shoulder 0.002" for it to be sized properly. Then I have another that requires 0.005". I anneal my brass every cycle to keep from splitting necks out. The use of a case gauge will help in determining if you moved the shoulder back enough.

You also need to be aware of your OAL. I have minimum spec chambers in all my AR's. This makes some bullets contact the lands if I use recommended length published i some manuals. The first thing I do with all my bullets is determine at what length I'm into the lands. I then back off 0.020"-0.030". I have found over the years that Sierra Bullets normally have there published recommended OAL at around 0.030". In most all cases I find that I don't have to adj the length more than 0.005".

You also need to run 0.002-0.004" neck tension so the bullet does not move when it's slammed home by the BCG. The recoil spring have enough energy to move the shoulder back several 1/1000's when closing. So a overly long improperly sized brass can get the shoulder bumped, doing so makes the bolt hard to retract.
 
I have not yet reloaded rifle cases enough that they have stretched enough to need to trim or bump the shoulders, I am just getting into that fun.

The trim issue does not seem to have been addressed yet. But I have never had an occasion where once fired brass was not over length after sizing. I don't know what is going on, but brass length is always the longest, and exceeds OAL trim lengths on first sizing. And I trim the heck out the case necks.

I used to use manual trimmers and spent entire Baseball World series trimming hundreds of cases. It was slow, luckily baseball is boring and nothing happens so I did not miss much looking away from the television. I experimented and experimented with hardware, and finally ended up with a Gracey trimmer.

Trimming is tedious. :barf:
 
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