Does anyone trim their 5.56 brass?

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CoalTrain49

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I have two rifles, a mini 14 that shoots about 2 MOA and a .223 Howa 1500 HB with a B&C stock that is about 1 MOA. I use nothing but range brass. Just recently I decided trying something new. I seperated all of the Lake City brass from everything else. Then I decided to trim all of it for consistency for use in my 1500.

I don't think my Mini is going to benefit from all of this but my 1500 might so I'm going to take some care in processing the LC brass.

If I don't trim the mixed range brass for the Mini 14 is this going to cause a problem? It seems to be running about 1.76-1.77" and 1.75" seems to be the trim length from 2 manuals. Being that the cartridge head spaces on the shoulder how important is this 1.75" length in an auto loader with a 5.56 x 45 NATO chamber? I would like to run untrimmed brass in it.
 
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I do a full length resize on my .223/5.56 brass and then trim to 1.75" with an acceptable +/- of 0.002". I'm sure my AR would function just fine with brass in the 1.74" to 1.76" range. Checking length and trimming does take some extra time (ha, I even slightly bevel the O.D and I.D of the case mouth) but I'm not concerned about how many rounds I can push out every hour. I like my reloads to be consistent.
 
If I don't trim the mixed range brass for the Mini 14 is this going to cause a problem? It seems to be running about 1.76-1.77" and 1.75" seems to be the trim length from 2 manuals. Being that the cartridge head spaces on the shoulder how important is this 1.75" length in an auto loader with a 5.56 x 45 NATO chamber? I would like to run untrimmed brass in it.

If the case neck sticks in the throat, you will experience something called high pressure. The case neck will pinch the bullet, and something bad will happen. High pressure creates signs which are not subtle, and from the smoke curling out of your mechanism, you will figure out something is wrong. That is the only reason I can see for brass trimming. It has nothing to do with accuracy, it has everything to do with safety.

Back in the day, a dial caliper was expensive, and a vernier caliper was slow, and took a magnifying glass to read, I decided to skip trimming on once fired brass. The theory was, the brass was new, therefore, it could not grow on its first sizing. Blown primers showed me that my theories were fallacious. I hate it when reality intrudes on a good theory. It turns out, brass grows the most on the first resizing after the first firing. It will also grow a surprising amount if you fire trimmed brass in a different chamber, or use a different sizing die. It may or may not stabilize if you always fire it in the same rifle and size it in the same sizing die. I am pretty certain because of the residual blow back effect, your brass is going to be stretched most unpredictably upon extraction, unlike a bolt rifle, so, I would never recommend skipping trimming.

Size your brass, check the length, and trim everything over length. I used to spend entire Baseball World series trimming 30-06 brass with a manual lathe trimmer. In time, I decided on buying a Gracey, and a Giruard trimmer. I do have an RCBS with a three way trim head. With these faster trimmers I just set them up and trim after every resizing. Trimming is without a doubt one of my least fun reloading activities.

I have not determined any malevolent effects with excessive trimming of a case neck. I suppose there are theoretical bad affects, probably having the same troublesome affect as the rotation of the earth on trajectory, that is, an unmeasurable problem having the same affect as a passionate argument about a meaningless philosophical point. I believe as long as the case neck is long enough to hold the bullet in place, the round will go bang, and you won't notice anything on paper with a trim length 0.020" below the recommended minimum trim length. And that is because, I regularly over trim the first couple of cases, and I have never seen any funnies on paper due to excessive trim length of that magnitude.
 
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I do a full length resize on my .223/5.56 brass and then trim to 1.75" with an acceptable +/- of 0.002". I'm sure my AR would function just fine with brass in the 1.74" to 1.76" range. Checking length and trimming does take some extra time (ha, I even slightly bevel the O.D and I.D of the case mouth) but I'm not concerned about how many rounds I can push out every hour. I like my reloads to be consistent.
That's pretty much what I do, but trim to 1.745". I figure if I make all cases consistent, it is one less step in trouble shooting if I run into problems.
 
If the necks get too long there is a chance that they will get pinched between the bullet and chamber wall/throat. If this happens the pressure will rise and if you are at the max already--bad things can happen. So I tried crimped and uncrimped 223 with a Lee FCD. My uncrimped ammo shot better so now I do not crimp it at all. I do anneal every three firings and the brass lasts about 10-12 loads before the primer pocket loosens enough to scrap them. Lower charges *might* help them last longer. I use the worn out brass for it's last load in my Mini 14 as that brass is ejected into low earth orbit as close as I can tell. Rather than check them for length every time I use the Lee length cutter system with the cutter blade/stem chucked into the drill press using the drill table as a stop, to size trim them all each time after I resize the brass. Doing each step in lots of 100-200 each session is easy on me.YMMV
 
I trim. I don't measure every piece, however, because I've got a Frankfort Arsenal trimmer set up specifically for 223. So it's quicker to put each piece in, let it trim if it wants to, and then move on. All other calibers I use a Lee's Quick Trim because I don't shoot them in any great quantity.
 
Yep! Trim to 1.750. Most of what I'm reloading now was 5.56 factory ammo, with some 223 mixed in. It definitely needs trimmed. But now that it's been trimmed, most if not all don't need a retrim. I still measure a few here and there, after resize just to make sure.
 
If the case neck sticks in the throat, you will experience something called high pressure. The case neck will pinch the bullet, and something bad will happen. High pressure creates signs which are not subtle, and from the smoke curling out of your mechanism, you will figure out something is wrong. That is the only reason I can see for brass trimming. It has nothing to do with accuracy, it has everything to do with safety.
This right here.

I can trim faster than I can measure and sort.
Yep.

It is faster for me to just trim all of my .223/5.56 brass each time using the WFT in a small hobby lathe instead of measuring first. If it didn't need it, nothing wasted. Then I deburr and chamfer. Maybe one day I'll get a "triway" trimmer that does it as you trim.
 
I run every piece of brass thru the trimmer after resizing. It's faster than measuring and sorting and trimming. One process versus three.
 
I used to measure, then trim. it's a lot faster if I setup the trimmer, and just run them all through. That way there is no doubt about pressure safety issues.
 
I use a homemade “go-no go” gauge to measure the cases. Those that do not fit the guage get trimmed.

You could set and lock a caliper and get the same result.

I find about 25% of the cases need trimming at each trimming session.

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I use the Dillon trimmer, if it needs to be trimmed, it is. If it doesn’t, the cutter doesn’t touch the case.

It’s faster than any measuring method could be as you are sizing/depriming and trimming at the same time.

1000/hour is not too difficult with a case fed progressive but it is a loud process.
 
I do a full length resize on my .223/5.56 brass and then trim to 1.75" with an acceptable +/- of 0.002". I'm sure my AR would function just fine with brass in the 1.74" to 1.76" range. Checking length and trimming does take some extra time (ha, I even slightly bevel the O.D and I.D of the case mouth) but I'm not concerned about how many rounds I can push out every hour. I like my reloads to be consistent.

I use the Crow, WFT (worlds finest trimmer) in my drill press and I trim it to as close to 1.760 as I can get without going over. It seems like a large share of Lake City brass is considerably longer than that. Since I want to use the taper crimp built into my seating dies, I try to get every case between 1.755 and 1.760 in length.
kwg
 
I am another that trims 223. Consistency in one reason but having a long case cause pressure problems is another reason. Loading 223's at 500-1000 at a time is what caused me to buy a Giraud. I can trim at a sustained rate of 15-16 per minute and maintain the length to within .001. Oh, I'll drop one occasionally or encounter a dinged case mouth that breaks my rhythm but I can usually do 900 in an hour. And I don't measure them, I just trim them.
 
I trim mine using a Trim-It 2 in a drill press.

This time of year I normally process a boatload of .223 getting ready for upcoming 3Gun matches. The Trim-It is set up for slightly over the min trim to length. I don't bother to measure and sort, it's just faster to run them through.

The brass for the bolt gun goes through a more refined process that includes annealing every couple firings and trimming on a Forster bench trimmer.
 
Thanks.

I trim with a an RCBS pro. I used to shoot a lot of 30 carbine. That stuff head spaces on the case mouth and it's important to trim the cases. I'm pretty knew to bottle neck so that's why I asked. Looks like I just need to trim all of it and consider it part of the case prep.
 
I trim everything I load. Frankfort Arsenal trimmer and RCBS Pro-Trim are cheap and fast, WFT's, take your pick, Giraud is where it's at.

Lots of guys are very happy running no-trim, mixed headstamp, range pick up brass. Lots of guys are very happy blasting 2-4MOA groups. Lots of guys aren't.
 
The vast majority of my brass is Lake City NATO 5.56mm. Some Lake City brass has very long necks. It all gets full length re-sized and run through the trimmer.
 
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