Don't let disassembling a revolver intimidate you.

[Old Fuff]

Today it doesn't matter, but "back when..." side plate's were individually hand fitted, and so tight that you often couldn't tell where the plate and frame came together. However if you "popped the plate" a few times - even though it was done correctly - that perfect fit would disappear.

So if you are lucky enough to have a revolver that's still perfect, think twice about removing the side plate for routine cleaning - because for this it isn't necessary.

 

[Waveski]

"So if you are lucky enough to have a revolver that's still perfect, think twice about removing the side plate for routine cleaning - because for this it isn't necessary."

Agreed. A revolver which is still perfect does not need to be disassembled. My nickel 586 no dash for example - I would not even begin to think about getting within 5 feet of that revolver with a screw driver. Same goes for my nickel Chief. My finish worn , mechanically sound once gummed up model 15 however - acquired for the specific purpose of learning disassembly - has given me some very rewarding "intro to gunsmithing" experience.

 

[NMPOPS]

I agree that removing the sideplate is not necessary for routine cleaning. But I also disagree with the common advice of just removing the grips and squirting brake cleaner inside and letting the gunk run out. Removal of the side plate, loosening the strain screw, removing the main spring and hammer and them carefully cleaning and oiling is simple and takes no real exceptional skills.
I do this about once per year to all my revolvers.

 

[AZAndy]

I see that the original poster has not met the hammer in my 640. I bet it took an hour to get that little devil back in, and that was after watching several detailed videos on it. ;-)

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I see that the original poster has not met the hammer in my 640. I bet it took an hour to get that little devil back in, and that was after watching several detailed videos on it. ;-)

Nope, but you got it back in right? You decided to learn, and you were successful.

 

[seeker_two]

Question: Can one remove the sideplate on a S&W revolver, spray a degreaser on the internal parts, let it drain, reapply a light oil, and replace the sideplate without any parts falling out?

 

[Maj Dad]

I Suppose You Could...

seeker_two,
You would have to be very careful in draining the degeaser/gunk - not turning it upside down & shaking - and very watchful. In reality, you would be well advised to learn how to disassemble them first, then if something falls out, you can replace it. Of course, if you learn how to do it, you can disassemble it partly to clean, or totally if you want. It is not rocket science or a mechanical engineering task. If you don't want to get Kuhnhausen's book, there are a ton of resources, including a S&W disassembly thread on this site that I can't find anymore. Maybe I'm cross-eyed from staring at this thing so much

 

[vaalpens]

Thanks for the post, and thanks for the reminder.:banghead:

I always take my SP101 apart when I clean it since it is the only way I can clean the crane assembly properly and it also makes it easier to clean the cylinder.

When I remove the trigger housing, I do it carefully, but one time I think I bumped the pawl, which released the plunger. Trying to get it back lead to the cylinder latch plunger also being released. This and the Phoenix heat had me sweating for a while, but finally I had everything figured out.

My advice is that if you start disassembling you revolver or semi-auto, take your time and bite of one thing at a time. Also, don't just do it once and stop. Practice makes perfect.

 

[Waveski]

vaalpens --

Congratulations on figuring that out on your own. I had to suck up my pride & call Ruger.

 

[P89DCSS]

SP-101 and GP-100 are a walk in the park compared to a Ruger single action with transfer bar. When my t-bar snapped on my Super Blackhawk it took a few tries to get it all back together working correctly. And the Ruger video is missing a few re-assembly steps.

 

[Shaq]

Question: Can one remove the sideplate on a S&W revolver, spray a degreaser on the internal parts, let it drain, reapply a light oil, and replace the sideplate without any parts falling out?

The only part that will fall out on a S&W revolver is the hammer block which just sits there.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Question: Can one remove the sideplate on a S&W revolver, spray a degreaser on the internal parts, let it drain, reapply a light oil, and replace the sideplate without any parts falling out?

Howdy Again

As previously stated, the hammer block just sits in position inside the gun. It is held in place by the side plate. If you remove the side plate, the hammer block is free to fall out if you pick up the gun and tilt it.

If you look at my photo of my Model 17 with the side plate removed, the hammer block is the long thin part laying at an angle with a slot at the bottom. Normally the hammer block rides in a groove in the side plate. With the side plate removed, there is nothing to hold the hammer block in place. If you are going to remove the side plate, remove the hammer block too so it doesn't fall out and get lost.

DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO LEAVE THE HAMMER BLOCK OUT WHEN PUTTING THE SIDE PLATE BACK ON!

Bad idea. The hammer block is there for a very good reason. Sometimes 'smiths' leave the hammer block out, thinking it will reduce friction inside the gun. BAD IDEA. My photo of my Model 17 shows the hammer block in the proper position for putting the side plate back on.

The upper tip of the hammer block should be between the hammer and the frame, and the slot at the bottom of the hammer block should capture the pin in the rebound slide just as you see it, with the pin at the bottom of the slot.



When you place the side plate in place, the hammer block should be in its slot in the side plate. Do not try to crank down all the side plate screws at once. Go gently. The side plate should nestle down into its place in the frame as the screws are torqued. If there is resistance, the hammer block has probably slipped out of position.

Note: This is the modern style of hammer block that S&W started putting into their revolvers around 1944. There is a story behind that that I will not go into here.



Earlier Smiths had a couple of different styles of hammer blocks. This M&P from 1939 has the type of hammer block that is mounted to the side plate. The hammer block is peened in place in its slot in the side plate. There have been some problems over the years with this type of hammer block, and some feel a Smith of this era should never be loaded with six rounds with a live round under the hammer.





Even older Smiths, like this one, had no hammer block at all.





Regarding not taking the side plate off a Smith; I do it all the time. Many times I will buy an old S&W and over time the oil can harden to varnish, gumming up the works. Of course I am talking about revolvers at least 50 years old or more. I never buy them in a condition that removing the side plate is going to damage anything, as long as I know what I am doing.

Regarding oiling: I try to just put a light dab of fine oil, I like Rem Oil, just where it is needed. At the spots where rubbing occurs. This includes the pivot points of the parts, and anywhere the parts rub together when the action is worked. If you remember the old Brylcreem ads, a little dab will do ya. Any more than that and you will be attracting dirt and powder fouling.

Regarding working the action with the side plate off: Some recommend against this, because the studs the hammer and trigger pivot on are no longer supported by the side plate and they can bend. I have not had that problem yet, knock on wood. However, if you work the action with the side plate off, keep an eye on everything. The hammer and trigger can tend to rise up on their pivot studs and may need to be shoved back down again.

edit: I see Kuhnhausen wrote one on Colt and Ruger DA revolvers also, and on Amazon some of them come with a companion DVD.

Yup. Kunhausen's book on the Colt Single Action Army is the best book there is for everything you ever wanted to know about the SAA. I just ordered the latest edition the other day, my old one is getting pretty worn. I also have his book on Ruger single actions and Colt double actions.



Note: I do not recommend removing the side plate of a S&W as part of regular maintenance. Usually I take one off once. Then I completely strip it down, degrease everything, put a couple of dabs of oil where needed, then button it back up again. I seldom take the side plate off again, it just is not necessary.