Bower, when you say sloppy, do you mean cylinder movement when it is locked up? Your use of the word dremel scares me. You need to get a set of small files, a hard stone and a drill press vise for use on a table top. You need to fit the bolt head to the stop notches, 10 degree slope from the leading edge or high side of the head to the trailing edge. Using the vise helps you make sure you keep the sides parallel (do not make a wedge shape out of the head of the bolt). Where the arms meet the bolt, is the opening squared or rounded? It's prob. square. Use the small round file and the vise and make it round ( U not [ ). The left arm of the bolt needs an angle on the upper most part to allow the hammer cam to push it aside as it comes back to rest. Likewise the arm needs to snap back over the cam just before the hammer comes to rest (last click you hear when that happens). The timing of the bolt drop (or rise) should be in the approach (or lead ) if there is one. Remys don't norm. have them. Each bolt is a custom fit so it's hard to think you can do it with a dremel.
45 Dragoon
Well this is an odd copy, its not a common pietta or uberti so i had to get something that looked close to what i had and make it work. Its a brass frame colt navy .36 made by Hawes firearms
When i say sloppy everything feels really loose compared to how it was when i first started shooting it. I cleaned it really well that could be one of the issues, OR im shooting to hot of a load with T7 in it. Im using a level scoop of T7 with a spent 9mm cartridge (13-15 grains)
Here is the image of the stock dixie part, the stock broken part and the dremeled part. (In red is what all i had to remove)
What i did was put the screw threw the hole and then aligned the bottom edge they seem to have a similar angle. I then took off everything that stuck up on the new part trying it each time in the gun till it started to work sooth then i stopped. Then i sanded all the rough edges off with 800 sand paper.
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