Dryer sheet contaminated powder

[bsctov]

Hello everyone,


I recently got a Hornady LNL Powder measure that I mounted to my desk, I followed the hornady instructions exactly, using the Oneshot gun cleaner and lube on it, and it has been nothing but problems, sticking powder everywhere, inconsistent throws, I even tried the dryer sheet trick, but that seems to have made the powder REALLY stick, and I think I may have that dryer sheet stuff on my powder now.


Think it's still ok to use? It's my finest .223 powder


My new load im trying is a slightly compressed one, 25.5 GR or Reloder 15 under a 55gr hornady fmj at 2.23 COL

 

[KansasSasquatch]

Clean it again using the One Shot Cleaner. Make sure it dries thoroughly. Dont use compressed air or anything to try to dry it quicker. Then use some powdered graphite to coat the inside of the hopper and the drum, anywhere that powder will touch. Shake off any excess powdered graphite. You want a thin layer on everything but not any big blobs anywhere. It won't contaminate your powder.

I doubt you'll have any trouble with the ammo you've already loaded (if you did everything else right). And in the future if you're going to rub the hopper with a dryer sheet, use a used dryer sheet and just rub the outside.

 

[moonman16]

Make sure you're using ONE SHOT CLEANER AND DRY LUBE,
NOT One Shot Case Lube.

USED Dryer Sheet.

Cycle and Recycle some Powdered Graphite through the system.

Google for 76Highboy Reloading channel on YouTube,
He has a complete series on the LNL-AP press,
1 of which is concerning the powder measure cleaning and set-up.

You might also Google for
"Hornady LNL-AP Set Up Hints and Tricks" by John Morgan
that's another Stage Name of his.

He has great videos, now covering all phases of the reloading process,
and now other equipment also, such as Redding and Dillon.

Great viewing, time well spent watching

 

[bsctov]

Yes, It's the One Shot gun cleaner and lube, not the case lube. I used a new dryer sheet (oops), I'm hoping it didn't screw up my powder that I poured in there. I washed everything down with hot water and dawn detergent, then when it drys I'll hit it with a little one shot again and wipe it down well.

I hope that will do the trick..

 

[jwrowland77]

Spray graphite down in the moving parts.

Did you get both rotors (pistol and rifle)? Makes a huge difference in the consistency of the drops, depending on what powders you're using.

 

[bsctov]

I have the pistol rotor also, my main issue now is I can't tighten the lock ring without inadvertently adjusting the drop.

 

[GBExpat]

... I used a new dryer sheet (oops) ...

Not to worry, a new sheet is just fine (that is what I have used before) ... you are interested in depositing a tiny bit of the stuff with which it is impregnated. You could also make a weak water solution of laundry Fabric Softener, lightly mist the areas and let them fully dry. A key component in the dryer sheets & fabric softener works as an anti-stat.

EDIT:

BTW, it is important to only deploy USED dryer sheets (pieces) in the media in your vibratory case cleaners. Just a thought.

 

[cfullgraf]

Yes, new dryer (unused in dryer) sheets work just fine without issue. If the dust from a new dryer sheet bothers you, crinkle it up some and shake the lose dust out. Or run it in the dryer with some clothes.

I do keep a sheet around for a long time. In other words, I do not get out a new dryer sheet every time I use the powder measure.

When my powder measures are not in use and empty of powder, I store a dryer sheet in the hopper. Helps keep the static down.

Lee Precision recommends running a pound or so of powder through their measures before using them to meter powder. It gets a coating of graphite from the powder on the measure.

I do not necessarily subscribe to running a pound of powder through my measures when new, but the concept of getting the innards of the powder measure coated is valid.

Be careful with what you spray in the powder measure. Some solvents and carrier fluids for aerosol dispensers will damage the plastic hopper.

Except for wiping the powder measure down with a dry cloth to remove loose dust, I never "wash" my powder measures. Washing them only removes the built up coating and you will start all over building it up again.

 

[Reloadron]

GBExpat makes a few very good points in that the fabric softener the drier sheet is impregnated with is what you are after. Your plastic surfaces are building up a static charge, likely in a low humidity area. The fabric softener makes the plastic surfaces conductive eliminating the static. You can mix Isopropanol Alcohol, Fabric Softener and water to make your own anti-static spray. Try a tablespoon of Alcohol, Softener mixed with 8 ounces of water. Let things dry!

Next, if you can increase the humidity in the room it should help. You can also exhale warm moist breath on the unit to try and dissipate the static charge.

Ron

 

[GBExpat]

I bought a Lee Auto-Disk Pro last winter (bought my first Auto-Disk 8-10 years ago) and that pup was a static mess.

I wiped the hopper & chargebar with a dryer sheet, then misted them with fabric softener solution (and let them thoroughly dry), then applied a bit of graphite to the moving plastic surfaces and topped the hopper with a recycled aluminum foil cap ...

... and my static issues were solved.

 

[Terlingueno]

Instead of a dryer sheet ( I live in a very dry place, mucho static), I use an anti-static brush I got from Amazon. Gone over the scale pans and powder measure, trickler, anything else that powder might stick to. So far it is working for me.

 

[higgite]

Using a new dryer sheet to wipe down the hopper is no problem, in fact, is preferable. Used ones go into the tumbler to soak up walnut and corn cob dust.

I'm not familiar with the LNL measure, but if the hopper is removable like my Uniflow, another trick is to remove it from the measure's base and swish it around in a sink of soapy water using something like Dawn dish soap. Do not rinse it. Then let it thoroughly air dry, don't wipe it dry. That cured the static cling in my hopper, better than a dryer sheet did. Then put it back together and run some powder through it.

 

[moonman16]

Watch the Bill Morgan AKA 76highboy on Google and YouTube, You'll learn a lot
about the Hornady.

The ROTATION of the Powder Adjuster or Micrometer Adjuster, NEED TO MAKE A FULL SWING, and hit the Top and Bottom of the SLOT with every throw. With your bench mounted one you need CONSISTENCY with your powder throw movement.

 

[bsctov]

Powder measure aside, I think my SW AR15 chamber has a defect that's scratching my brass...I noticed that on all of my reloaded ammo, there's a very neat, horizontal scratch that extends about 70% of the way around each case, and some of them are deep enough to catch your fingernail as I drag down.....Should I call SW?




My brass has this exact scratch, except only one line instead of 2

 

[Kaldor]

I clean the tube with howt soapy water, and air dry it.

I clean the rotor and drop with red Brake Cleaner and air dry it. I polished the inside of the drop, removing the paint, to a just shy of a mirror finish. See pic below.

I do not lube the drop with graphite. I have considered waxing it and polishing it as some have suggested.

I use the baffle plate in my drop.

I store the drop with used drier sheets in it.

Short of really long grain extruded powders like 4198, I have no issues. 90% of what I do is ball anyway, and thus far it works great.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Hummmm. All I have ever done to eliminate "static cling" and other powder sticking problems is to wash the powder hopper in warm water and dish soap. Dry thoroughly and let set for a few hours. Lightly lube the moving parts and use. Never had a problem with sticking powder.

If you use a dryer sheet, make sure your wife has ran it through the dryer at least twice.

 

[GBExpat]

... I think my SW AR15 chamber has a defect that's scratching my brass...I noticed that on all of my reloaded ammo, there's a very neat, horizontal scratch that extends about 70% of the way around each case, and some of them are deep enough to catch your fingernail as I drag down.....Should I call SW? ...

Prior to calling I would get a few good, well-lit/-focused, closeup digipics that clearly show the mark. That way, if they request them, you can attach them to an email PDQ.

 

[Reloadron]

Powder measure aside, I think my SW AR15 chamber has a defect that's scratching my brass...I noticed that on all of my reloaded ammo, there's a very neat, horizontal scratch that extends about 70% of the way around each case, and some of them are deep enough to catch your fingernail as I drag down.....Should I call SW?




My brass has this exact scratch, except only one line instead of 2

You would have done better starting a new thread but yes, I would call S&W and I would also do as suggested and take some high detail images of your cartridges from your chamber as they may want to see them.

Ron

 

[bsctov]

Called s&w.. they sent me a label. Nice to see a fellow clevelander on thr also

 

[horseman1]

This is what I would do....

Just ground the powder measure. Use an anti static mat if you like. Put a 1M ohm resister between the measure and the ground that would limit the current in case of some crazy electrical accident (if you think that could even happen). Would probably work just fine.

H1

 

[Kp321]

Back before anyone heard of a dryer sheet, the trick was to wash the powder measure , scale pan, and powder funnel with dish washing soap (Joy then) and water and allow them to air dry without rinsing. The soap film that was left minimized static problems.

 

[TimSr]

That anti-static spray for clothes, I think its called Static Guard works well on plastics.

 

[Average Joe]

Wash the hopper in Dawn dish washing liquid, let air dry, no more static mess. Or you can go the expensive route and use graphite.

 

[Reeferman]

After shooting a little graphite through my LNL powder drop all problems went away.

 

[Rule3]

Good grief, what a lot of work and non Rocket Science to clean a powder measure. I believe Hornady says to clean it with their cleaner.(for oil and grease)

Then just take some powder and a paper towel or clean clothe and rub the hopper with it, Run powder through the hopper and measure several times and done.The powder coating will prevent "static cling".

Step away from dryer sheets, anti cling and all the other junk.