Duplicating federal wadcutter load

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captdave221

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I have reloaded quite a few hundred 38 special 148 grain wadcutters using Acurate #2 at 2.95 grains of powder and Hornady wadcutters seated flush with a light crimp with the Lee FCD. I have also used Bullseye at 2.7 grains. I was pleased as how they shot BUT I recently bought 3 boxes of Federal wadcutters and suprised that they shoot softer and seem to be more accurate than my reloads.

Does anyone know what/how to duplicate these rounds.
 
Take one of your existing loads and work down?

Also, are you using true hollow-base lead wadcutters?
 
Yes I am. Hornady Frontier Lead 148 grain HBWC. I am a bit concerned about having squib loads. That is why I am asking for other reloaders thoughts.
 
Yes I am. Hornady Frontier Lead 148 grain HBWC. I am a bit concerned about having squib loads.

Well, then, the first thing I'd note is that your AA#2 load is actually slightly above Western's load data max (for non-+P rounds). They show 2.6 as the start and 2.9 as the top in their online data: http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WPHandloading-Guide-7.0-Web-REV.pdf You have plenty of room to work down without even leaving the comfort of published data.


Second, in handguns, a low-powered squib load poses a different kind of danger than an over-pressure round. With the over-pressured round, the first sign of trouble may be the gun violently disassembling itself. With a low-powered round, the danger is in the second round after you stick a bullet in the bore. While there's not a good way to safely work up to an overpressure explosion and then back down, you can work all the way down to a stuck bullet and then back up... as long as you notice the stuck bullet immediately. Do your testing with a nice cardboard target and at a distance that allows you to clearly see the holes. Test all the different powder positions (i.e., drop muzzle toward the ground, then slowly raise to fire in order to test powder-forward position, etc.). If you don't see a hole in the target, or if you're not sure you saw a new hole in the target, check your bore. Work down until you get what you want, or start seeing failures to stabilize or truly erratic accuracy, or you stick a bullet.

[ETA: I removed a paragraph about some of my loading experiences with AA#2 and plated wadcutter bullets. I'm at the office, and was referencing charge weights from memory without looking at my notes... I decided that was imprudent. I may add it back tonight if I remember to check my logs.]
 
I’d appreciate that. Thanks for the info you have already provided. The recipe I have been using was given to me by a friend who has been reloading for years and shoots that load in Bulleye competitions. I bought 4 boxes of the federal as I wanted some new brass and I was impressed with their accuracy. They’re a bit better than my reloads. Another friend who reloads insists the a roll crimp deters accuracy and he uses a light taper crimp. I use a Lee FCD turned in 1/2 turn. Only taper crimp die I have is a Hornady 9mm die.i don’t know if that will work on a 38.
 
For lead HBWCs use just enough taper crimp to remove the bell, just gently push the brass back lightly against the bullet.

Only taper crimp die I have is a Hornady 9mm die.i don’t know if that will work on a 38.
It will, use judiciously.
 
Actually the bullet used in the Western powder data is a Laser Cast, 148 gr WCDBB Which is not the same bullet you have. Main difference is it is HARD as a ROCK and not a HB bullet. BHN of 24. You bullet is much softer.

I use the L FCD to put a slight roll crimp in mine that shoot out a SW M52 wadcutter semi auto and it is very finicky. They are more accurate than I am,

But, that said, I would also try a slightly lighter load. load a few and see.

https://www.laser-cast.com/#!/38-Cal-148g-WC-DBB-SGG-358/p/93944748/category=25376417
 
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