Hummmmmmmm.... again.......
Okay. The effective barrel length is the distance from the base of the bullet chambered to the muzzle. Typically, revolvers have a bit of a barrel length edge in similar size guns.
The velocity "penalty" in semi-autos and revolvers has been argued for years. There have been tests run. One such test with revolvers (a revolver, anyway) used a single action something-or-other that was altered so the barrel could be screwed in and out to set the cylinder gap.
There have been a couple semi-auto tests wherein the slides were locked in one manner or other to make the pistol a locked breech manual repeater.
The over-all results are these: Both revolvers and semi's loose velocity in the normal operation of the device. (Large gasp of breath here, folks.) That is to say, both the barrel gap of the revolver, and the recoil of the semi-auto use up or waste some of the energy of the cartridge being used.
Which is more wasteful? This is the result my research: About 40 years of reading all these reports; sometimes interviewing the experimenters, and my own research into the matter.
There is more variation between two different handguns of the same type and caliber than between the two designs.
By the way, it does get heated sometimes. I remember talking to two different men, both known to me as knowledgeable and honest. In two separate conversations (happily some distance apart) they related to me the results of such testing. Both were convinced of the reliablity of their experiments and results. They were about 180 degrees out of phase and convinced the other (they knew each other) were full of processed bovine feed.
Want to do your own? Knock yourself out. But do at least three separate examples of each design and caliber. Here's the proceedure:
1. Obtain three different semi-automatic pistols in the same caliber. Determine barrel length by calculating distance from base of bullet while round is chambered to muzzle. If you have different type pistols, cut off the longer barrels to match the short one. (Better you should start with three different examples of the same model pistol. Three Government Models, three Browning HighPowers, three Glock 17s; that will save a lot of prep time.)
2. Obtain three different revolvers in the same caliber. Measure and record the cylinder gaps for all chambers of the cylinder. Using the length of barrel found for the auto pistols, cut off and crown the revolvers to the same funcitonal barrel length, base of bullet to muzzle. Install receiver mounted scopes or red dot sights so you don't shoot the chronograph.
3. Buy or load at least 138 rounds of ammo, all of the same type, manufacturer and lot number. If you load the ammo, load it all at the same time using the same components. You may want to load two lots, one at starting load levels, and one at maximal levels. If you are purchasing the ammo, go wild and buy target loads and full charge stuff, but maintain the lot number uniformity for each type.
4. Obtain a chronograph.
5. Find suitable range. Take a lunch.
6. Fire each handgun, noting the velocities attained. For revolvers, make sure each cylinder gets fired three times each. Five rounds per semi-auto. Repeat for the other load, if so inclined.
Break camp and go home.
7. Remove the barrels from the revolvers and alter the threads and barrel shoulder so the barrel will screw up against the front of the cylinder.
8. Devise a manner of locking the slides in place on the auto-pistols. I'm told a five inch "C" clamp will flex the slide enough to lock in place. I'd suggest some leather pads so the finish doesn't get screwed up. I've told a machinist's bench vice will also work, but it makes the pistol a little hard to shoot offhand.
9. Go back to range. Take a lunch and dinner.
10. Fire each handgun, noting the velocities attained. For revolvers, make sure each cylinder gets fired three times each. Five rounds per semi-auto. Please note that every time you shoot the revolvers, you will have to load the cylinder, cock the gun, fire, unscrew the barrel, rotate the cylinder and then screw the barrel back down. Every time you shoot the auto-pistols, you will have to charge the chamber, lock the slide in place, fire, unlock the slide and recharge the chamber.
Now you know why to take lunch and dinner. Take some Gatorade, too. You need to keep hydrated.
Repeat for the other load, if so inclined.
Break camp and go home.
11. Write findings. You should calculate average velocities for each type of ammunition for each of the sample guns prior to being altered. Then averages of the three revolvers and the three semi's. Then calculate the same averages for the "after" conditions. Then compare the averages between altered states of each of the samples and the revolver averages and the semi averages. This will show how much velocity change exists in each sample and the averages.
12. Repeat process with at least two other calibers. 22 long rifle is a good candidate, as is .45 ACP, .10mm, .357 Magnum and .38 Special. Properly, one wants to use low, medium and high pressure rounds.
13. Rebarrel the revolvers because they are going to be useless until you do. Probably re-finish the semis because they probably got scratched to heck despite the leather pads.
Let me know how this comes out, okay? I've been dying to do it but I can't afford to cut up that many guns just for curiousity. Maybe we could apply for a government education grant?