Evaluating An S&W 39-2 Mechanical Condition

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308win

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I am going to try to find a local 39-2 and I was wondering what I should look for, beware of, be aware of, etc. as far as the mechanicals? Thanks
 
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Many parts from all generations of S&W 3rd gen guns will interchange. That's good if you find a problem, but it also means any unknown origin gun might be contain non-original parts. Most parts are drop-ins and the guns are really easy to work on. Inspect the gun for hammer follow (hammer falls forward when slide is released), check the alloy frame for cracks or other wear spots, check to make sure the wooden grips are not worn out and that all 4 (two per side) grip bushings are still there - the grip bushings/escutcheons are screwed into the frame and then staked in place. Sometimes they work themselves loose and get lost. Also make sure the mag fits the gun well. Some mags don't totally swap between generations, but that doesn't stop people from trying to force fit them.

Also look close that the frame, slide, and safety lever all match. If it's a 39 and not a 39-2 make sure the extractor is in good shape. One of the updates to the 39-2 was a smaller improved extractor. There were some kind of issues with the long original extractor.

If you can get the slide off of the gun to inspect, you should see a flat brass piece riveted to the top of the trigger bar. It should have two entact tabs on it. This is the trigger play spring. Make sure it's in good shape. Sometimes the tabs break off. It doesn't effect function much, but it makes the trigger feel crunchy. It can be replaced, but it's a chore.
 
The most serious problems you could run into are a cracked frame and setback in the slide locking recesses. The slide stop pin takes some of the impact of stopping the rearward motion of the barrel, with too many hot loads it will develop a fine crack extending down from the hole toward the trigger guard. Not fatal, the gun will continue to function, but not good either. The other result of too many hot loads is setback of the slide locking recesses, which can increase the effective headspace to the point of getting failure to fire malfunctions. When I experienced this, the gun went back to S&W and they replaced the slide. No such option exists today.

I experienced these problems with my own 4-digit serial # 39-2, this was during the day of dirt cheap WW2 9mm surplus, of which I shot a whole lot. Much of this would have been SMG loaded, so certainly at the top end of pressures. I also experimented with hand loading, I don't know what pressures 7.5 gr of Unique behind a 100 gr half-jacket bullet developed, but the round was quite snappy.

As long as the gun has not been unintentionally abused like this, it should hold up well. Good luck in finding a good specimen.
 
I own a 39 I bought new from a police supply whse back in 1970............I have absolutely zero idea how many thousands of rounds that gun's had thru it.....most fairly hot handloads. It has had precisely two failures. The first firing pin broke..........ten minute replacement issue at worst....the second was that the recoil spring guide rod began to separate at it's base. I peened it back and used it as was till I got a new one.....the fp issue of course disabled it till I could get another.

Damn good gun! I cannot recall a failure to feed or fire ever. Mine's a 2nd model, small extractor....never fooled with the earlier version so I can't comment. I will say that I recall an article in I believe Shooting Times wherein writer Skeeter Skelton ran in excess of 8 M rounds thru one without a hitch. The fram did crack at the takedown cross pin, but as I remember he kept on shooting without a problem

Tough and reliable.....you cannot go wrong with one.
 
Many parts from all generations of S&W 3rd gen guns will interchange. That's good if you find a problem, but it also means any unknown origin gun might be contain non-original parts. Most parts are drop-ins and the guns are really easy to work on. Inspect the gun for hammer follow (hammer falls forward when slide is released), check the alloy frame for cracks or other wear spots, check to make sure the wooden grips are not worn out and that all 4 (two per side) grip bushings are still there - the grip bushings/escutcheons are screwed into the frame and then staked in place. Sometimes they work themselves loose and get lost. Also make sure the mag fits the gun well. Some mags don't totally swap between generations, but that doesn't stop people from trying to force fit them.

Also look close that the frame, slide, and safety lever all match. If it's a 39 and not a 39-2 make sure the extractor is in good shape. One of the updates to the 39-2 was a smaller improved extractor. There were some kind of issues with the long original extractor.

If you can get the slide off of the gun to inspect, you should see a flat brass piece riveted to the top of the trigger bar. It should have two entact tabs on it. This is the trigger play spring. Make sure it's in good shape. Sometimes the tabs break off. It doesn't effect function much, but it makes the trigger feel crunchy. It can be replaced, but it's a chore.
A S&W M39-2 is not a third generation S&W pistol. I have had three. The last one has been loaded and on guard since 1971 as we speak.
 
Yes, obviously. Good catch :). I'm not sure what I was meaning to type there. Many parts are comparable between 1, 2, & 3 gen guns.
 
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