I have a Springield GI45 mil spec that I have had for about a little over a month now. I have put 500 rounds through it now and have a problem with erratic ejection. In previous outings I have had the spent brass going every which way with some hitting me in the head and face and some even going down the front of my coat. I was out firing it today and had a friend of mine fire it while I watched. None of them were as bad as in previous outting but many of the casings were exiting between the 12 and 1 o'clock positions and going about 5-6 feet behind the gun. I inspected the old brass and noticed where the ramp of the extractor made contact with the bevel of the cartridge. I have done some searching on the subject and have found some useful posts, but being new to handguns I don't fully understand all the abbreviations and acronyms. If anyone has any useful tips I would appreciate some help. Thanks.
Extractor tuning help needed
- Thread starter joshh
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thats about how long mine lasted before it stopped ejecting .i tweaked it a little. now not a problem. did you do a search for extractor tuning?
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Help
Howdy joshh. Welcome aboard.
Yours is the 5th Springfield that I've had reports on...not including mine and one other in the flesh...with the extractor making contact with the extractor groove. It's a dimension/spec/tolerance issue that...depending on how hard the contact is...may break the extractor. Jammer6 had a hellluva
time with his, until his extractor was modified to obtain clearance.
He was breakin' extractors like matchsticks for a while there.
The erratic ejection is also fairly common with the GI Mil-Specs, and it seems like it's an ejector problem, though the extractor can be a player. In every one that I've had my hands on, replacing the ejector cured the problem. I
used an Ed Brown extended ejector in mine...trimmed back on the length a little...and a good extractor topped it off. The brass clears the port neatly at 2 O'clock and hits the ground 6 feet away in a 3-foot circle. I didn't have the contact issue at the front of the extractor groove though, so mine was
a cakewalk. Jammer's was a headache, but at last report, it was humming along.
I'm beginning to wonder if Springfield's recent extractor problem was more due to the contact at the case rather than bad steel...A spec issue instead of a material problem.
Howdy joshh. Welcome aboard.
Yours is the 5th Springfield that I've had reports on...not including mine and one other in the flesh...with the extractor making contact with the extractor groove. It's a dimension/spec/tolerance issue that...depending on how hard the contact is...may break the extractor. Jammer6 had a hellluva
time with his, until his extractor was modified to obtain clearance.
He was breakin' extractors like matchsticks for a while there.
The erratic ejection is also fairly common with the GI Mil-Specs, and it seems like it's an ejector problem, though the extractor can be a player. In every one that I've had my hands on, replacing the ejector cured the problem. I
used an Ed Brown extended ejector in mine...trimmed back on the length a little...and a good extractor topped it off. The brass clears the port neatly at 2 O'clock and hits the ground 6 feet away in a 3-foot circle. I didn't have the contact issue at the front of the extractor groove though, so mine was
a cakewalk. Jammer's was a headache, but at last report, it was humming along.
I'm beginning to wonder if Springfield's recent extractor problem was more due to the contact at the case rather than bad steel...A spec issue instead of a material problem.
Tuner, ya think that extractor might be clocking a bit? The reason I asked is because a friend of mine bought a Springfield that was a real brass scattering machine until we replaced the firing pin stop with a Wilson part, and filed the extractor tip back a bit. Only took off a few thousandths, and I dunno if it was replacing the stop or the filing work we did. Maybe both.
Before we replaced the stop, you could easily move the extractor side to side. The stop has to be pushed in with a little effort-not so much that you have to pound it in, but there is noticable resistance.
Before we replaced the stop, you could easily move the extractor side to side. The stop has to be pushed in with a little effort-not so much that you have to pound it in, but there is noticable resistance.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Clocking
Howdy Delmar,
Very possible that it's a clocker, but most produce last round ejection problems. Since josh didn't mention that in particular, I went ahead and eliminated it without even askin' if he'd noticed any crushed cases.
What's that they say about assuming somethin'...
Anyway...Good point Del. Thanks for bringin' it up.
Joshh? Had any crunched brass or stovepipe failures to eject?
Howdy Delmar,
Very possible that it's a clocker, but most produce last round ejection problems. Since josh didn't mention that in particular, I went ahead and eliminated it without even askin' if he'd noticed any crushed cases.
What's that they say about assuming somethin'...
Anyway...Good point Del. Thanks for bringin' it up.
Joshh? Had any crunched brass or stovepipe failures to eject?
Thanks for the quick reply guys. I have noticed the open end of some of the brass had a small ding in them, but I haven't had any fail to eject. I did read jammer six's big long threads about his extractor problems, but had some trouble following some of it. Since I'm not very familiar with this stuff I don't know all the parts of the extractor and related parts. I guess I'll try the thing tuner told him to do with inserting a round in the slide and pushing it back through the muzzle to check if the extractor pushed out. Is there any way someone can put up a picture of an extractor with all the different areas of it labeled, so I can see what you are talking about when you say trim x or bend y. Maybe even better would be if someone could recommend a good book to buy for a reference. Thanks again for the help and thanks for the welcome.
Well I did some checking. I checked the tension of a round in the extractor and it held in place no matter how I turned the slide. I also inserted a round in the magazine and watched it feed into the gun and the rim slipped nicely under the extractor. I also placed a round under the extractor and slid the round into the breech. I then took a rod and pushed the round back against the breech face. I did notice the extractor slide to the side. Also the extractor seems to be a little loose. It seems to be able to twist in its bore. Also the distance from the breech face to the edge of the extractor hook is about 2.5 to 3 times the thickness of the cartridge rim. I guess this all means I need to get a new extractor.
Well, a thanks goes out to Josh and Tuner-had a rough day at work so I took 200 rounds and both my 1991A1 Compact and Gold Cup to the range to cool off.
Darned if the last round wasn't trying to stovepipe! New extractor and pin stop for this guy.
It's been a while-haven't replaced or adjusted the extractor tension in nearly 10 years, and it seems to be an MIM part with a lot of miles on it. Probably close to 35K or better. I'll just stow it in my possibles bag in case I need one on short notice.
Darned if the last round wasn't trying to stovepipe! New extractor and pin stop for this guy.
It's been a while-haven't replaced or adjusted the extractor tension in nearly 10 years, and it seems to be an MIM part with a lot of miles on it. Probably close to 35K or better. I'll just stow it in my possibles bag in case I need one on short notice.
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