Failure to eject with my reloads today

[Stefan A]

Not sure about which gun gave me the primer drag. Cases were mixed and I didn’t think to pick them up before changing guns. I’ll recheck the plunk test tomorrow. But I recall it being Ok. Maybe a little freer in the 365, but still fine in the glock. I have been slightly lessening the crimp because I feel a slight bulge where the bullet seats. I’ve used both a beam and an electronic scale. I’m confident with my loads now. Ejector is solidly in the gun.

 

[JO JO]

as a new reloader a slower powder would be safer to learn with instead of having issue with a fast powder loading at listed max , at listed max plus scale variation you can easily
end up over max and into +P
not a good combo to learn with in my opinion , I am using Ramshot Silhouette for my 9mm but I have always stuck with medium burn rate pistol powders for 9mm
you would not want to make a mistake and have a kaboom , you are already at max so trying to raise the pressure up from there could be a bad idea in my opinion '

A heavier or faster bullet will help. Accurate Powder did tests of various powder types in Glock and SIG Sauer handguns, and determined that fast-burning powders caused failures to increase, and that medium- and slow-burning powders (of the range suitable for the cartridge) gave the best reliability. Limp wristing would magnify these changes,.

 

[JO JO]

another thing I would advise is to call western powders and explain this to them and see what they advise

 

[NMexJim]

Let's explore bulge a little. Did you say plated bullets? As in .356 diameter? And, what are you taper crimping to? .379 or .380?

Over crimping is easy to do. 9mm cases don't bulge as easy as .380, and any bulge would indicate way too much taper crimp.

 

[NMexJim]

Let me be a little clearer. Is the bulge below where the bullet sits in the casing? Mic the mouth of the crimp.

Check the attachments.

 

[NMexJim]

crap, this one

 

[Dudedog]

Do we have check weights to verify scale saying 4.6 is really 4.6?

 

[ms6852]

Yeah, some of them are darker

How will a slower powder help? Plus, can you recommend one?

You stated that some brass is darker, Ram zip is a pretty fast burning powder. What could be happening is that upon ignition of the primer the powder burns up to fast creating enough pressure in the case to push the bullet out the barrel but not so much pressure that would make the case expand and seal the chamber fast enough. By the time the case expands powder residue is blown back around the case and when the case finally expands the power residue grab on to the case with enough tension and before the brass shrinks back a little, the extractor slips, leaving the case in the chamber. This all happens in an instant it expands and shrinks real fast. A slower burning powder would increase pressure in the case allowing the case to expand and push the bullet.

Maybe you need to taper crimp your bullet just a little tad more not much but sufficient to where you have removed the flare. My experience has shown that when shooting semi-autos anything sometimes shooting lighter rounds won't cycle actions well enough until you find the right recipe. I would also recommend that you do at least 20 reloads and weigh each round individually to ensure consistency and shoot them to see if it was just a powder load problem. Some one also recommended a shorter oal. I thing this is a good idea as it will increase pressure giving it the boost to cycle the action properly, it is all about the timing.

 

[NMexJim]

How about these? Look familiar?

 

[Stefan A]

How about these? Look familiar?

What I am seeing is that last pic. Where there is an impression of the base of the bullet in the case.

 

[kelbro]

Plunk test has been mentioned a couple of times. That's a good starting place.

 

[NMexJim]

Ok, so 9mm bullets have various diameters - .355 for full jacked, .356 for plated as they are just lead with an electro plating of copper which is more to prevent lead gasses in confined spaces, and pure lead which runs .357 up to .360. The "slight bulging" caused by .356 or larger bullet shouldn't be a problem IF your loaded cartridge resembles the SAAMI dimensional drawing attached last. AND passes plunk test.

Let me venture into bullet seating and taper crimp. As shown in one of the pics, 9mm brass is tapered in the case giving more thickness down to the case head. I often use 1.135 seating depth for plated bullets and can see the same expansion of the case as you identified - slightly. Mic the mouth rim where we should be seeing something around .378 to .381. Really, we should just take out the case flare we made at the expander. It''s only a small length at the mouth of the cartridge. I personally don't crimp so hard that I engrave a ring around the bullet. I just want ample neck tension to prevent set-back caused by recoil while rounds sit in the magazine. The crimp need not be excessive.

I was taught to mic rim thickness, multiply that by 2, mic the bullet, add 'em. Winchester tends to be .011, so twice that is .022. Plated tend somewhere around .356 so the total is .378 Flare coming out of the expander should be As slight as will work to start bullets at the seating die - +.003 to .005. The objective is to taper crimp the case back to something ar or a tad bigger than .378 - say .380/.381.

Without a case in hand or a pic w/ dims, it's had to say, but I don't think this is causing an ejection issue, but let me ask what dies are you using? And, what dim are you getting down at the case head? It should be very close to the SAAMI spec.

I

 

[lordpaxman]

I fired the rest of them, about 25 more, out of my Sig p365.

Any advise is appreciated.

Ditch the Glock, use the Sig. Sorry, couldn’t resist... I’m a Sig fan, some people use another word as well.

How did the 4.1gr loads shoot and cycle in your Glock? How did the 4.2gr loads (or your next step) shoot and cycle?

chris

That was all fine.

Do you have access to a chrono, or a friend who might have one? Given what you’ve posted, and let’s presume you’re at max load, I’d back off the powder, not increase it. A chrono would at least help confirm the velocity. Do your 4.6gr loads “feel” stout, or like equivalent factory loads? A failure to eject may be caused by a failure to extract, perhaps due to cases dragging on the chamber wall.
I think your Glock running fine with factory ammo says the extractor and ejector are all just fine. Back off the load and try again. Good luck.

 

[Blue68f100]

What I am seeing is that last pic. Where there is an impression of the base of the bullet in the case.

This is normal. The bottom of the bullet showing you have good neck tension. As long as every thing is centered, plunks fine your good. You only want enough TC to remove any flaring that was done. You can normally use a pair of calipers and measure this. Start just below the mouth and work up toward the mouth.

 

[Stefan A]

Without a case in hand or a pic w/ dims, it's had to say, but I don't think this is causing an ejection issue, but let me ask what dies are you using? And, what dim are you getting down at the case head? It should be very close to the SAAMI spec.

I am using Lee dies. After measuring about 15 rounds, they are all between .378 - .381 with .380 being the most common.

Regarding the plunk test I am getting mixed results. Correct me if I'm wrong, but in order to pass, it needs to drop all the way in, turn easily, and then drop out on it's own when I turn the barrel upsidedown? I noticed one round that had some "shmutz" on the case and would not go all the way down unless I pushed it. Although, the round was in spec for OAL and width. I had another round that also met spec and the case was perfectly smooth and it wouldn't easily turn or drop out. And then other cartridges' that were fine within the same specs. So, I don't know what to think about that.

I do not have a chrono or know anyone with one. When I shoot these rounds, they all feel plenty powerful, just like factory rounds.

 

[Skgreen]

in order to pass, it needs to drop all the way in, turn easily, and then drop out on it's own when I turn the barrel upsidedown?

Correct.
Shmutz? Not enough info to know what's going on or where it came from, but perhaps a good De-shmutzing is in order.
Also need to find out if it's dragging/binding on the case or the projectile. (Most likely, the case.)
Not familiar w/Lee dies, but there have been times with my taper crimp dies that adding just a bit more crimp fixes the plunk.

 

[PWC]

Fired case stays in the chamber.

I get mostly brass to the face with the old ejector. BTW, people keep saying extractor. It's the ejector I changed.

IMHO, we've gone all around the mulberry bush on this. The problem stated as not ejecting, as described, is really one of not xtracting, to give the ejector a chance to work.

The reloads seem to have worked before if the op was getting brass in the face. Does it function correctly with comml ammo?
Is the xtractor not snapping over the rim?
Does the fired brass xhibit the glock bulge?

 

[243winxb]

Maybe try adjusting the extractor? Your replaced ejector should not be an issue?

My 1911 45 acp started leaving brass in the chamber, after many years. Took the extractor out. Placed each end on wood blocks. Applied pressure to bend it , while checking movement. Fixed it.

One thing i learned fron this. Do not place a round in the chamber & allow the slide to slam into the rounds rim. Over time, it bends the extractor.
Rounds need to come out of the magazine. Slide up the bolt face, under the extractor.

 

[Stefan A]

Here's what I did. Did a thorough cleaning of the gun with special attention to the extractor, ejector, and ramp. Wasn't that dirty anyway, but made it better. I created 10 "new" rounds. I slightly decreased the OAL to 1.130-1.135 and I slightly lessened the crimp. Chose smooth brass, made sure I was getting 4.6 grains, measured OAL and width, and passed plunk test for each round. I then chose 10 random rounds from my old reloads and loaded them up. I shot all 10 without any malfunction. I then loaded the new rounds into the same magazine. I had no malfunctions. But, with all rounds I had a lot of brass to face - which is extremely disappointing since I wasn't having this problem previously. There was no primer drag and no "glock bulge."

So, I'm left wondering. Was it as simple as a good cleaning? Even though it wasn't that dirty? I traded one problem for another problem? Did I happen to pick10 random old rounds that happened to be good? Or are they all good and just a dirt problem. What's going on with this ejector or is that the problem? Really not sure what I learned or solved.

 

[243winxb]

The extractor is what i would look at? But i dont know much about Glocks. More or less tension from the extractor may help the brass in face problem. Google Glock Extractor or ejector adjustment?

Edit: A quick look on youtube shows a spring & plunger working the extractor tension. Here a cleaning & lignt lube may help function?

 

[PO2Hammer]

Glock extractors are not adjustable. You can swap parts, but that's it.
I think it's the plated bullets causing lower than expected velocity. They always run slower than jacketed or cast.

 

[NMexJim]

"You don't know what you don't know" - a guy told me this and I sorta blew it off thinking him a bit nuts, but came around with a bright light bulb turning on years later.

If I have a problem that stumps me, then I bear down until I find what the cause is. I don't hesitate to call manufacturers or study expanded diagrams or read reloading manuals, whatever. If you don't find the cause right then, then you'll probably find it somewhere on down the line in an "ah ha" moment.

No dire consequences predicted here. Cleanliness? Ahhhh, maybe??? I've never had an issue due to powder residue or a bit of "shmutz" (thank you SK).

My mulberry bush is worn out. Good luck.

 

[Average Joe]

Light load, OAL to long, or case not resized to specs. One of those might be your problem.

 

[AJC1]

It's very possible that I am not getting exactly 4.6. I had made 100 rounds. Somewhere in the middle of making those 100 rounds I tightened up the drum on my powder measure because a few flakes were escaping with each pull. So, they may have been a bit light, but still within the range. I just went and did 15 measures and 14 of them came out to 4.6. One was 4.7. I'll have to make some new ones now that I am pretty confident about the consistency.

I would reduce oal before increasing powder... I still advocate

IMHO, we've gone all around the mulberry bush on this. The problem stated as not ejecting, as described, is really one of not xtracting, to give the ejector a chance to work.

The reloads seem to have worked before if the op was getting brass in the face. Does it function correctly with comml ammo?
Is the xtractor not snapping over the rim?
Does the fired brass xhibit the glock bulge?

The only thing we havent beat to death is if the brass is different or does not have a good rim...

 

[Skgreen]

Extractor worn? I took a file to my blow-back 9's extractor to sharpen it's 'tooth'. Helped with full extraction /ejection.