The gun has a 4" barrel, the "M" mark (so it's been back to the factory already, I guess), and Hogue monogrips. Overall condition is decent, finish is about 85-90%. Cylinder has a tiny amount of end shake, but in all other respects the gun seems sound. The seller wants $300.
Fair price for a 686 no-dash ?
- Thread starter Mulliga
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"Fair" is what you are willing to pay and the buyer is willing to take, leaving you both satisfied. $300 doesn't seem out of line. That said, it's hard to picture a stainless revolver in 85% condition. Are you talking about rust/staining?
That's what I was thinkin'.
A 686 for $300 is nice.
A Stainless wheelgun in 85% aint so nice.
Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
A 686 for $300 is nice.
A Stainless wheelgun in 85% aint so nice.
Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
I got one last year. Great shape (few handling marks), timed perfect, complete with box and tools for $300. I considered that a good deal.
No rust at all (previous owner took good care of it), but some light scratches and maybe a couple of tiny dings in the finish around the trigger guard. I guess it's mostly holster wear, but the revolver does not look quite "new."
Master Blaster
Member
If its stainless you can polish it with simicrome or flitz. Bad scratches can be taken care of with steel wool or even 600 grit wet dry paper.
Stainless S&W revolvers are scratched up when they are new and they don't really have a finish, just a bit of polishing. Take a look at a New satinless Smith and you will see what I mean.
The last new stainless smith I bought was covered with small scratches, thousands of them, its what they now call polishing at the S&W Factory
When you say 85% to most folks it means they dragged across the asphalt or its rusted if you are talking stainless.
How is the mechanical condition, cylinder play, endshake, rifling, timing?
If its good then the gun is an excellent deal at $300.
Stainless S&W revolvers are scratched up when they are new and they don't really have a finish, just a bit of polishing. Take a look at a New satinless Smith and you will see what I mean.
The last new stainless smith I bought was covered with small scratches, thousands of them, its what they now call polishing at the S&W Factory
When you say 85% to most folks it means they dragged across the asphalt or its rusted if you are talking stainless.
How is the mechanical condition, cylinder play, endshake, rifling, timing?
If its good then the gun is an excellent deal at $300.
Here's some pics...
(The green tint is from the LED of the webcam)
I wasn't aware 85% = rust and hard wear. The gun is obviously in much better condition than that.
Timing is good. Cylinder play (side-to-side) is small to nonexistent. Rifling looks good, but shallow - is that normal?
It seems to be a shooter - got ragged one-hole groups at 7 yards and ~2" groups at 15, which is decent for me.
(The green tint is from the LED of the webcam)
I wasn't aware 85% = rust and hard wear. The gun is obviously in much better condition than that.
Timing is good. Cylinder play (side-to-side) is small to nonexistent. Rifling looks good, but shallow - is that normal?
It seems to be a shooter - got ragged one-hole groups at 7 yards and ~2" groups at 15, which is decent for me.
Master Blaster
Member
All rifling is pretty shallow only a couple thousanths deep, the question is are the lands and grooves distinct with sharp defining lines?
It looks like its in great shape, and $300 is a pretty good deal at least for these parts where it would be closer to $425.
If it shoots well go for it!!!!!
It looks like its in great shape, and $300 is a pretty good deal at least for these parts where it would be closer to $425.
If it shoots well go for it!!!!!
More than I would pay but it is more than a resonable price especially if you want that particular gun. The gun in the picture does seem nicer than I had originally though it would. Most SS guns if not horribly abused or scratched will clean up pretty nicely.
Yeah, I'm stuck in Gainesville (where the local shops charge $310 for a P3AT 
), so it's probably the best I could do.
One question regarding the adjustable sights - I adjusted them to hit dead-on at 7 yards with stiff Remington 125 gr. .38+Ps. On average, how far off would the point of impact of the typical .357 be from that?
), so it's probably the best I could do.One question regarding the adjustable sights - I adjusted them to hit dead-on at 7 yards with stiff Remington 125 gr. .38+Ps. On average, how far off would the point of impact of the typical .357 be from that?
Mulliga said:
I think you just answered your own question about whether or not you got a deal! Enjoy!
Mulliga said:
Don't own one yet but my first choice would be an O'Rourke.
http://www.gun-holsters.com/h_pages/pancake_med.html
Depends on what you call a typical .357. All loads will have different POI in a particular handgun. Then the .357 magnum comes in a varied bullet weight. You would need to shoot that particular revolver with whatever loads you choose to determine if you want to adjust the sights any further.
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