Fed up with electronic scale, which beam to purchase

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I am still using an RCBS 5-10 I bought at a yard sale for $5 or $10 many years ago. It has been spot on, and will probably last another 30 yrs. or more.

I bought an electronic about 10 yrs. ago, used it a couple times, and put it back in the box, haven't used it since. I just don't have the same level of confidence in electronic scales that I have with my old RCBS 5-10. They do some strange things, which sends chills up my spine.

But since RCBS doesn't make the 5-10 any more, my first choice if I had to buy another, would be the RCBS 10-10.

GS
 
The 10-10 Lyman m-5 are all ohaus. Well at least they used to be. Surprised no one said anything about Scott Parker. I had the pleasure of talking to him on the phone. Great guy. Search his name on Google with reloading scale after it. You can find testimonials and contact info. He will take an older 1010/m-5/ohaus and tune that sucker up. You can see the fluctuation of one kernel of varget. I have with mine.
 
The 10-10 Lyman m-5 are all ohaus. Well at least they used to be. Surprised no one said anything about Scott Parker. I had the pleasure of talking to him on the phone. Great guy. Search his name on Google with reloading scale after it. You can find testimonials and contact info. He will take an older 1010/m-5/ohaus and tune that sucker up. You can see the fluctuation of one kernel of varget. I have with mine.

A well tuned scale is a joy to use.

This is my tuned 502 showing 5 separate kernels of Varget being dropped in the pan. On average I find there are about 4.7 kernels of Varget to 10th grain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8VMBJXfYDE

And the scale being used here:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnVOoGd1bDU
 
I have a tuned Redding beam scale I bought from Scott Parker that I've used for several years. This past year I started reloading 9mm and have worked up a handful of loads with different powder and bullets mainly forced by component shortages. My most resent purchase of a Caldwell Chronograph has been a real eye opener. I have shot most of my loads over the chrono. Several have ES of 6 and my last workup with range brass has an ES of 4.

I also have a Chargemaster 1500. If I let it warm up, level it on the bench, calibrate and zero it, it runs neck and neck with the Redding beam scale. The Charge master will get me within .1 or less of my intended charge, most of the times, less. I have tweaked the Chargemaster's program and it's getting better. Between the two, I get to my charge weight faster.

Scott Parker knows what he's doing.
 
In the mid seventies I bought a foot locker full of reloading stuff. There was a beam type scale in there...a Herters...still use it. It had to be 15 yrs old when i got it. It is the only one I have ever used.

It would be interesting to set up three or four scales and see how much variation there would be.

Mark
 
Which beam scale ?

I have and trust a RCBS OHAUS 5-0-5 scale . If you zero it first , it is very accurate at weighing doses. I use mine to verify a LEE Pro Auto Disk hopper, with dual disk drop. I have a digital scale and find the tare weight varies by up to Plus or minus .3/10 th's of a grain. I zero with pan and weigh each 10th dose after a weight verification at about the 11th-20th dose. Record the dose and figure out an average. If the dose is, "In the groove of the dose's that worked best at powder verification." Load up a mess of em' and enjoy at the range.
 
RCBS

Z, I had similar problems with my Dillon and Smartreloder escales. I went back to my old RCBS beam scale and I've never been happier. I've noticed my groups are better too. I was also getting pressure signs on loads near maximum in a few rounds per batch of reloads. That also went away when I went back to my beam. Everything seems more consistent. I'll never go back
 
i am excited, i set my Redding #2 up yesterday and got it zeroed. i was loading some 40s&w with autocomp and noticed my powder drop was going 5.7 to 5.8 grains.

today for fun i think i am going to load a few 308 varget and use the powder trickler just so i can enjoy counting individual kernals of powder
 
Ohaus 10-10 under RCBS name works best, it has a magnetic thingie that prevents the beam from taking 10 minutes to settle (so I exaggerate a bit))

FYI, it is called magnetic dampening.

But "magnetic thingie" is an adequate "technical" term.:)
 
Ohaus 10-10 under RCBS name works best, it has a magnetic thingie that prevents the beam from taking 10 minutes to settle (so I exaggerate a bit))

All modern beam scales have magnetic damping, even the humble Lee.

I believe the 10/10 and the Lee are the only current beam scales to incorporate an approach to weight system.
 
If you are buying used, don't get something so old that it has an oil damper or the mechanical linkage one brand tried.
If you took chemistry in the old days, you might remember how to read an undamped scale by counting swings.

Magnetism and gravity are pretty reliable.

My PACT electronic does pretty well, though.
I leave it turned on to stay warm and have a couple of check weights handy.
 
I'm using an el cheapo Franklin Arsenal digital scale I paid $25 for 4 years ago as a temporary replacement for a broken expensive digital scale. It's accurate enough compared side by side with a quality scale but more importantly it's consistent and I'll continue to use as long as it is.
 
If you can find one that does not cost an arm and leg try a Dial O grain from Ohaus. They also made an RCBS version. Great range and easy to dial in. A little bigger foot print though. Also a fan of the 10-10 (RCBS or Ohaus), that one is the backup now though.
 
z7, I'm surprised no one mentioned fluorescent lights. If you have one relatively close to your scale, that could be part of your problem. Try it under an incandescent and see if it does the same thing.

It may just be the scale itself also. Do call Hornady and arrange to send it back.

I really like my electronic scales. After calibrating them on every start up, they have proven very accurate for me. I periodically check them out with my balance scale and am always within a tenth of a grain either way.

I do a lot of loading and would be lost without my 1500 combo unit. I never trusted or had accuracy for my needs throwing a handle on a powder dispenser and trickling powder into a balance scale is a bit slow for me. I like the fact that I can be seating a bullet and checking cartridge length while my powder is dropping.

If your scale is fluctuating and or won't settle in in a second or two, something is not right.

You won't go wrong having a balance scale around, whether it be for your primary use or as a check. We all get set in our ways
 
I will try it out of my garage to see if it is the fluorescent lights, i was weighing brass to see how much it varied and one piece weighed 181, 180.8, 181.2, 181.1, 181.7, I compared it after each separate case because I know the scale fluctuates. It was calibrated on start up and I Tared it several times.
 
z7 said:
Fed up with electronic scale, which beam to purchase?

... fed up with the hornady electronic scale that came with my kit ... The zero kept floating
Some digital scales have .2 (2/10th) grain resolution instead of .1 (1/10th) grain and will round up/down to the resolution. Personally, I recommend .1 gr resolution for reloading, especially if you want to load near max/max pistol loads. BTW, Hornady GS 1500 digital scale has .2 gr resolution - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/438260/hornady-gs-1500-electronic-powder-scale-1500-grain-capacity

Also, if the scale is battery powered, it will act up/read inconsistent as the battery loses charge. All digital scales will have operating temperature range (mine specifies 58F-90F) and when used outside of range, it will act/read erratic.

I will try it out of my garage to see if it is the fluorescent lights
When I reloaded in the garage, I noticed air movement from open door/windows and air/heating vent affected scale zero and reading. Now, I only use my digital scales indoors at room temperature with air vents closed and fully charged batteries. They now all read within .1 gr of Ohaus ASTM class 6 check weights and two Ohaus 10-10 scales. I use two 13 watt CFL clamp lights on my bench and haven't noticed any issues with scales.

... trying to load 308 with varget ... I plan on using it to check my powder drop for pistol and when working with 308 to trickle to the 10th of a grain.

is there a difference that I could notice between the redding #2, rcbs 5-0-5, Lyman

I know its been covered before and many say "a scale is a scale" but in terms of craftsmanship and repeatability is there a difference?
Personally, I think older USA made beam scales are better than newer non-USA made scales.

Ohaus 10-10, RCBS 5-0-5 and Lee safety scale all detected one piece of 1/4"x1/4" 20 lb paper and two pieces should read about .1 gr as we verified on this thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9600852#post9600852

I bought both of my Ohaus 10-10 scales used and used 1/4"x1/4" pieces of 20 lb paper to test sensitivity and Ohaus ASTM class 6 check weights to verify accuracy. I also load .308 with Varget/4895/RL15 and C-H 502 powder measure but RCBS 5-0-5/Dillon Eliminator (essentially the same scale) and Ohaus/RCBS 10-10 scales should work well to trickle powder charges.

The extent of "tune up" I did with 5-0-5/10-10 scales was to remove the agate stone covers and make sure the stones were clean (especially at the "V" notch) and they were free floating on the base with the clean knife edge (see picture below of agate stone).

RCBS 5-0-5 agate stone

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Ohaus 10-10 agate stone

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I was playing with my new redding scale and was trickling up a load, i could tell the difference in one kernel of varget and one kernel of 4064,
Perhaps the new beams are not equal to their older counterparts, but I am going to find this one very useful
 
I have used several beam scales over the years. I bought a Redding Model #2 a little over a year ago. Of all beam scales that I have owned it is the most accurate that I have ever used.
 
I have a RCBS 10-10 that will not hold zero . I sent it back to the factory ( it was brand new ) . Customer service was good . I don't know if they repaired or replaced mine , but it is still will not return to zero .

I have that cheap Lee scale , it is harder to use but I trust it more .
 
I have both a RCBS and Hornaday balance beam scale.

I love the Hornaday and use it while the RCBS sits in a drawer after getting it back after having it checked over by the factory after dropping a box of bullets on it.

No matter how much I love the Hornaday, you wouldn't be able to get the RCBS away from me either!!!
 
The beam scales just give me a better feeling. Gravity doesn't change much for a given location. Load cells on the other hand....

RCBS 10-10 is about as good as it gets.
Minimal is a Lyman Pro 500(the new ones), phenolic frame, but rides on agate bearings and it can be had for a third of the cost(It is the scale Lee should have made).
If you don't mind used ebay is fun, I got my 10-10 and my favorite scale, an old Lyman M5 off there. It is a nostalgia thing.
I use all of the ones I mentioned depending on my mood. They all corroborate with each other.

Sending a scale off to be 'tuned' is throwing money out the window. A clean scale will equal any tuned scale(because it is the same thing). Sounds like the same guys that think $30 HDMI cables give a better picture than the $3 ones. Poor saps.
 
Sending a scale off to be 'tuned' is throwing money out the window. A clean scale will equal any tuned scale(because it is the same thing).

Tuned scale - money well spent, IMHO

Shots:
# FPS / FT-LBS
5 1155 / 370
4 1161 / 374
3 1158 / 372
2 1153 / 369
1 1156 / 371
Average: 1156.6 FPS
SD: 3.0 FPS
Min: 1153 FPS
Max: 1161 FPS
Spread: 8 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.2
True MV: 1165 FPS


Shots:
# FPS / FT-LBS
5 1162 / 375
4 1161 / 374
3 1163 / 375
2 1165 / 377
1 1161 / 374
Average: 1162.4 FPS
SD: 1.7 FPS
Min: 1161 FPS
Max: 1165 FPS
Spread: 4 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.2
True MV: 1171 FPS
 
red rick said:
I have a RCBS 10-10 that will not hold zero. I sent it back to the factory ( it was brand new ). Customer service was good. I don't know if they repaired or replaced mine, but it is still will not return to zero.
Sometimes things happen at the factory.

I would suggest you take off the agate stone covers and make sure the posts the stones "free float" on are clean without any debri under the stones or have any rough surface. I would also clean the agate stones, especially at the "V" notches. Next check the knife edges to ensure they are clean without any surface rust. I would also check to make sure the beam is not bent.

To check scale zero, find a flat level surface using a bubble level at perpendicular axis (This is important for using mechanical beam scales. If you keep your scale at a particular place on the bench and the bench is not level, make sure that portion of the bench is level by using a small piece of plywood and leveling it with shims and screwing down the plywood). Then close the door/windows and air vents to the room. Set the poises to "0" and turn the extra hang weight/knob until pointer is at the zero line.

Let us know if this resolves your scale failing to return to zero.

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