Finally got me a Colt!

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Matt-J2

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Ok, it's an old Police Positive in .38 S&W(though I suppose I really should call it .38 Colt New Police;) ), it's not in anything like pristine shape, all that stuff. Not worth a whole lot to folks that worry ab out such, but it's been at this shop in Green Bay for awhile now. I only stopped in occasionally as it's a bit out of my way, but I happened in on Tuesday and discovered they were closing up shop. Well, I had checked out this revolver every time I'd been in and did so this time as well, and so I up and bought it. I don't see a whole lot of Colts of any kind, much less one that seems to warm me up like this one does, and it happens I got it marked down from the asking price as well(without asking, since they were liquidating, but IIRC the owner would have negotiated anyway). Looks like I still paid more than book value but it was priced at Matt value so now it's home. :)


Ain't much to look at, and the pic actually hides some of the flaws, but here it is. :)
IMG_4208.jpg



Now, I think I have the date narrowed to between 1924-1927. It's a first issue(last patent date is 1905), and it has the walnut grips(assuming they're original). Is there any way to narrow it further without paying for the letter like with S&Ws? I'd love to get the letter anyway, just curious if I can get the 'born on' date anyway. I'll take it out on Sat or Sun and put some rounds through it. Take some fancier/better pics then and let you know how we do at putting lead on target. :)
 
Matt value is all that matters. There's always a clown on the intarwebz who will tell you that you should have gotten a better deal.

NICE!!! I like it. :D

I'll be the clown next time. This time: thumbs up!!
 
Thanks.

Also, my wife just came home and handled it for the first time. Handed it back while saying it was hers. :p
 
Let her buy a box of ammo for it, and you will get it back..;)

BTW I think you done good.
 
Thanks guys, and thanks for that link dennythetech!

My serial is 1800xx, so that puts it at 1928.


Iggy, having bough the one and only box of ammo I've seen for it between 4 stores, I jumped even faster than normal on to the net to find reloading components. :)(it's a box of Win Super X 145gr LRN, was ~$31)
 
Looks like you did well for yourself! I was just fingering an old S&W with similar aesthetics earlier today.....and it's pretty easy to fall in love with 'em!

But, it looks like there were different grips in between where they are now and the back of the trigger guard......maybe Tyler T's or something?
 
That line is actually the edge of the sideplate. Not sure why it shows up with a different coloration in the pic. Can't see that right now anyway, maybe it just needs the right lighting. I am thinking of getting a Tyler T-grip anyway, so maybe it's appropriate. :)



While I'm here, anyone know where I might get a holster for it? Not to conceal really, just to wear open while out on our land. Doesn't have to be exactly period, but similar style would be nice. Might even carry it around to pop a few pesky bunnies with it.
 
I think the stocks are original because they look correct for the period. If so, you will find the revolver's serial number penciled or stamped on the inside. Back in those days the stocks were individually fitted to each frame. Of course no one does that anymore. In fact there are a lont of things in that gun that aren't done anymore, because if they were most buyers couldn't afford it. Be sure to clean and lubricate it. Most of those you find are dry as a bone.

If you go to some of the auction sites, such as www.gunbroker.com and look at what similar Colt stocks are selling for you'll feel better about what you paid for the revolver. :evil: :cool:

PS: You might as well know right now - you wife is going to be a problem... :neener:
 
Yeah, this one is pretty dry. How do I get at the parts I need to oil without damaging something? I took apart a Blackhawk and my GP100 right away, no problem, but this is an 80 year old Colt! I don't want to do something I might regret.
 
Yeah, this one is pretty dry. How do I get at the parts I need to oil without damaging something? I took apart a Blackhawk and my GP100 right away, no problem, but this is an 80 year old Colt! I don't want to do something I might regret.
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No, you do not want to take it apart unless you know how, and have the right tools. In no way is it a Blackhawk or GP 100. The Colt was made like a fine watch.

1. Remove the stocks. Unscrew the stock screw and then thread it back in on the other side. This will give you sort of a handle to wiggle off the panel. Then reach through the frame and gently tap off the other side

2. Go to an automobile supply or big-box store and buy a 1/2 gallon of a product called Marvel Mystery Oil. It's not a space-age product since it's been around since 1923, but it's inexpensive, and it works. It's usual purpose is as an engine additive.

3. You will also need a pan, such as a meatloaf tin that the revolver will fit in, and some aluminum foil

4. Cock the hammer, lay the revolver in the pan, and pour in enough oil to cover it. Seal the top of the pan with foil. Otherwise the oil will creep up and out of the pan.

5. After a few hours you can lower the hammer, but doing so isn't necessary. Let the gun soak for several days, or even a week, and then remove it, drain off the excessive oil or blow it out with an air hose, and wipe off the exterior with paper towels. Brush out the bore and chambers with a cleaning rod and brass bore brush (not stainless steel) and then run a cloth patch through them with some Marvel's oil on it. Oil will continue to creep out, so continue to wipe the gun down with paper towels. When you are done replace the stocks.

You will notice a world of difference in the way the gun feels and works, and you won't have any broken parts or burred screw heads. :)

Be sure to pour the oil back into the original contanier. You can use it over and over - either on guns or in your car.
 
Old Fuff

I've used Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive in my car's engine for many years now; went over 150K miles a couple of months ago and still running strong. Never thought about using it like you mentioned; thanks for the tip.
 
Funny, I was just reading another thread here that had a link to "Ed's Red",. Read the cocktail ingredients and I thought to myself.

"that sounds a lot like Marvel Mystery Oil. Wonder how much difference there is between the two?".


Thanks Old Fuff, for the heads up on that. Never thought to use Mystery oil with my guns.

Cool.
 
It's really funny. A friend of mine put me on to the stuff, although I'd used it for years in my cars. Anyway he would buy the oil in bulk and put it up in pint or smaller bottles with his own label. Then sell it at gun shows for an outrageous price. :evil:

If left long enough it will also unfreeze screws that are stuck, and you can get them out without messing up the slots. Too many people try to use brute force to get older guns and antiques apart. This can turn out to be a big mistake.

Incidentally, it won't hurt any gun blue I've come across, except some cold blues, nor nickel plate - unless the plating is starting to peel. On the other hand it will loosen rust without harming the finish under it. Fine steel wool will then remove the rust without a lot of elbow grease.

"Ed's Red" is similar, but has additional solvents, which may be good or bad depending on what you are trying to do.
 
Trans fluid and kerosene = Marvel Mystery Oil, or so some of the old guys I once worked with said.
 
Trans fluid and kerosene = Marvel Mystery Oil, or so some of the old guys I once worked with said.
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I wouldn't be surprised. It has that look about it. But I don't detect a kerosene smell. From my perspective I don't give a hoot. It works well, and is relatively inexpensive.

When it comes to cheap, nobody can beat the Old Fuff... :D
 
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