Finicky Lee Turret Press

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You just back the powder through die out some to cut back on the flare. It can get aggravating. When changing from 38 special to 357 mag. Same with 40sw to 10mm. I ended up getting an extra set of dies for each.
 
I had the same hopper with no lid and I called Lee to order spares. Could not order those hoppers, but I was able to order the red ones with lids. You also have to buy the valves that go with them and then they slide in just like the clear one. I think I paid $12 for 6 valves and another $20 for 6 hoppers.
 
As far as the alignment issue, I've had that before with the Lee turret press. My issue was the little plastic square bushing that rides up and down on the auto index rod wearing out. I've replaced mine a few times now, seems to go out every 2000-3000 rounds or so. The bottle adapter hopper would drive me up the wall...unfortunately I think thats just what they do now:fire:. Yes, the Lee on press priming system is not the best. I now deprime on a separate single stage press with a universal decapping die and hand prime my cases. Some powders just don't like to meter well. I've heard Unique is one of the worst offenders, titegroup is probably the worst one I've used, and I would get +/- .02 grains, and with TG that could get you into trouble depending on the load. Bullseye, Power Pistol, 231, all have no problems in mine. Do have to get the die depth and drum screw tension right though, for consistent throws. And, with 357, probably want to crimp with the seating die, that will give a good roll crimp, which is what you want with a magnum revolver cartridge. The Factory crimp die gives a taper crimp, which is great for auto cartridges, and some revolver loads using plated or jacketed bullets without a cannelure. But, with 357, you don't want your bullets sitting in the adjacent chambers getting unseated under recoil due to insufficient crimp. But yes, the FCD can feel a little bumpy on the way out, sometimes grabbing the round. My solution for that is to separate my headstamps, and adjust the crimp die accordingly. I find that easier than trimming pistol brass to a consistent length. All that being said, I like the Lee turret, but, then again, it's all I've ever used. Still on the same press for over 10 years now
 
Stefan A said:
Having gotten into the reloading hobby in the middle of a supply shortage, things have been slow going and I obtained items as they became available. I've now been doing it for about 1 year. I have reloaded 9mm, 45 Colt, and .357 mag. I got the Lee Turret Press because that is what was available and it seemed to get good reviews. I'd like to still think of myself as a beginner because I get a bit more sympathy for things I don't know. But I've reloaded enough cartridges, watched enough videos, and read enough stuff here to kind of take me out of the beginner category.

Another thing I've done is constantly fiddle with my press/dies because it just doesn't perform the way I think it should. So maybe this is a griping thread, but I am open to help. First of all, Lee instructions are very confusing and incomplete for a total beginner. If it wasn't for you guys and youtube, I would have quit a while ago. There's always something wrong/unexpected happening. Below are things that have happened and some things I just can't fix.

  • Primers do not always seat all the way no matter how hard I push. Only has happened with .357.
  • SPP don't always come out of the primer feeder or sometimes fall on the floor. Haven't had the problem with LPP.
  • With .357, the cartridge does always go into the die because it seems slightly unaligned. Tried holding the rotator bar and turning the die set as per the instructions, but is ineffective. I just have to force the brass in.
  • Auto Drum Powder Measure is far from consistent. I have had readings ranging by up to 5 10ths.of a grain and that's just dangerous. That's using the Lee balance scale as well as a digital scale. Scales are accurate, powder drops are not.
  • I have spent a lot of time on youtube specifically for the powder through expander die trying to get it adjusted right. Things are just not clear.
  • It would be so nice if the hopper had a removable top so when I am testing powder drops I can dump it back into the hopper rather than the original powder container. It's annoying that all the videos I watch are of the style that DOES have that sort of top - but not mine... I hate watching videos on the die/hopper when the item in the video does't look like mine. So I can't be sure the instruction is right.
  • For 357, the seating die and crimp die are clunky sounding - not sure if there is something wrong. Seating die seems to be crimping (I know it can be set that way), but I don't want it to crimp.
  • For 357, It feels like the crimping die isn't doing much. Cartridge just seems to go in without feeling anything happening. But as I pull it out, it seems to get stuck right before the cartridge comes out. Have to give it some extra oomph to get it out. For the seating and crimping die, I have followed the instructions exactly.
  • When the cartridge goes into the seating die, I feel and hear an obvious scape. I have tried so hard to put the bullet into the case as straight as possible. I have seen slivers come off
So anyway, I know I am doing a lot of complaining here. I read so much about you all sitting in your reloading room and just relaxing as you do your thing. So far, this has just been stressful and annoying. I am just not sure if it's me or the dies or the press. Or if it's all normal.

Stefan
Click to expand...

A lot of your problems stem from owning Lee equipment. Lee is innovative and cost-conscious, but everything Lee I own and have owned is finicky. Little adjustments, workarounds, and YouTube fixes are very common, and you just have to accept that. I'm not hating on Lee either. I have bought a lot of their products, and will in the future too, I'm sure.

Their priming system isn't very good on your press. I'd recommend getting a hand primer. I have the RCBS and have been very happy with it.

Maybe the primer pockets are crimped on the brass you're having trouble with? Though I've never heard of 357 mag having primer pocket crimps.

It sounds like your dies aren't set up correctly. If you're getting shavings come off your bullets and feel scraping, it sounds like you're crimping before the bullet is all the way seated.

You may want to consider trying to find someone local that can go through the process with you. Reading directions and watching YouTube goes a long way, but sometimes having someone experienced right there with you can make all the difference. If you belong to a sportsman club/range, that may be a good place to ask around, or if you frequent a local gun shop, especially one that sells reloading equipment. Just a thought.
 
Clipper67 said:
I also have a Lee Turret, don't have any of your problems, mainly because I don't use the Lee Priming system, and my Lee Auto Drum(s) work very nicely for me. I de-prime on my Dillon, and use a RCBS Hand Primer for those calibers that I use Lee Turret for, there aren't many calibers now that don't get the Dillon treatment, mainly M1 Carbine, and 44 Special/Magnum, and I have 4 other Lee Auto Drum measures on Dillon caliber conversions...Works for me! The powder flask is easily removed from the body, a slight turn closes the outlet, and it comes off easily.
Click to expand...

If you're depriming on your Dillon, why not prime on it as well? If I'm doing batches larger than about 100 rounds (and I'm not loading them on the Dillon), I'll use a universal decapper and then prime them. Takes just as long to decap as it does to decap and prime.

Edit: I have the XL650. I'm not actually sure how easy it is to prime on their other models.
 
GravelRider said:
Maybe the primer pockets are crimped on the brass you're having trouble with? Though I've never heard of 357 mag having primer pocket crimps.

It sounds like your dies aren't set up correctly. If you're getting shavings come off your bullets and feel scraping, it sounds like you're crimping before the bullet is all the way seated.
Click to expand...
The cases are from standard brand name companies that I personally shot.
I followed the die instructions exactly, including instruction from a Lee video. I did exactly what they said. The scraping sound happens while the bullet is being pushed down. I think this may be an over flare problem as was suggested by someone else.
 
I gave up on the auto drum, tried to make it work, even got replacement drums. I bought a power hornady auto charge. The primer safety system I found if they're not enough primer in it they do not flow down and doesn't advance the primer, so I always fill it with more primers then I need to assist in gravity.

Btw, if reloading was easy it would be boring and not make us special :rofl:
 
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I'll just toss in one Tip. A thing that I did early-on that smoothed the overall operation of my LCT. Perhaps someone has already suggested this. So far, I have only read the OP. I plan on returning when I have more time to read the rest.

I was experiencing a small number of nagging issues. I paused and did a thorough inspection of my LCT . I discovered that the ram was not centered on the die holes.

After making a final tightening of the LCT bench bolts, I spent about 30 minutes one day carefully loosening & tightening those 3 column top-screws whilst trying various minor-variation combinations of component orientation until the ram was finally solidly centered.

Most of the annoying Bothers (I could not even list them from memory now) disappeared after that.

That was in the beginning of 2015. :)

Best of luck getting your LCT tuned!
 
I've had mine for a few years now. No real tuning needed. The priming system, while not great, works reasonably enough to keep everything flowing on press for pistol. CCIs tend to flow smoothly while other brands I have to give it a shake every 15-20 rounds to keep the chute full.
The Auto Drum was awful. Very leaky and inconsistent. AutoDisk works much better. Still a bit leaky, (Not sure anything can contain TrueBlue) but very consistent and keeps the flow going on press. Great for pistol.
For rifle I remove the auto index rod and use the press as a single stage with the Perfect Powder measure off press since I have to remove the case to check length/trim/deburr anyway.
 
Stefan A said:
The cases are from standard brand name companies that I personally shot.
I followed the die instructions exactly, including instruction from a Lee video. I did exactly what they said. The scraping sound happens while the bullet is being pushed down. I think this may be an over flare problem as was suggested by someone else.
Click to expand...
That could definitely be it. Do you have a picture of the flared case you could post?
 
bersaguy said:
As far as the alignment issue, I've had that before with the Lee turret press. My issue was the little plastic square bushing that rides up and down on the auto index rod wearing out. I've replaced mine a few times now, seems to go out every 2000-3000 rounds or so. The bottle adapter hopper would drive me up the wall...unfortunately I think thats just what they do now:fire:. Yes, the Lee on press priming system is not the best. I now deprime on a separate single stage press with a universal decapping die and hand prime my cases. Some powders just don't like to meter well. I've heard Unique is one of the worst offenders, titegroup is probably the worst one I've used, and I would get +/- .02 grains, and with TG that could get you into trouble depending on the load. Bullseye, Power Pistol, 231, all have no problems in mine. Do have to get the die depth and drum screw tension right though, for consistent throws. And, with 357, probably want to crimp with the seating die, that will give a good roll crimp, which is what you want with a magnum revolver cartridge. The Factory crimp die gives a taper crimp, which is great for auto cartridges, and some revolver loads using plated or jacketed bullets without a cannelure. But, with 357, you don't want your bullets sitting in the adjacent chambers getting unseated under recoil due to insufficient crimp. But yes, the FCD can feel a little bumpy on the way out, sometimes grabbing the round. My solution for that is to separate my headstamps, and adjust the crimp die accordingly. I find that easier than trimming pistol brass to a consistent length. All that being said, I like the Lee turret, but, then again, it's all I've ever used. Still on the same press for over 10 years now
Click to expand...

Slight correction - the FCD crimping plug for the 38 Special/357 Magnum round is, in fact, a roll crimp ring, not a taper crimp ring. If you want to taper crimp with the 38 Special FCD, the easy way is to purchase (actually free plus shipping as a replacement part) a 9mm crimp plug and cut it off to the same length (cutting above the crimp ring) as the 38 Special plug. I use the taper crimp plug for plated bullets and the roll crimp for everything else.
 
I never remove my indexing rod when I want to operate in Single Stage Mode. I simply loosen the bolt shown in the pic below, shift the handle to align with the other mark and re-tighten the bolt.

2v2uKsdaCxAW38L.jpg

Takes about the same amount of time and I prefer it to removing/reinstall the turret disk and indexing rod.

Just a personal preference. :)

========

Oh, another Tip ...

The LCT die disks will mount perfectly into some 3" cardboard cores (most of mine are 2"wide packing tape cores). When I have my disks loaded with dies there are always components protruding unevenly from the bottom. Sometimes I like to remove a loaded disk and replace it with another for a short period.

The 3" cores are a handy temporary storage location that allow the loaded disk to stably sit upright so I don't have to worry about damage or propellant spillage. ;)
 
Skinnedknuckles said:
I love my Lee Classic Turret Press and Lee dies. I'm not a fan of the new Safety Prime (I like and use the old round reservoir model), but I know it can be adjusted to work. One thing to emphasize is that while Lee equipment is well designed and well made (almost all the time) it is a basic design and needs tuning/adjusting to make it run smoothly. Don't expect to just bolt it to the bench and start making ammo right out of the box. Once tuned, it runs great, in my experience.

First, this Youtube video is worth your time . It has some good advice on setting up the safety prime at about 18:00 as well as a lot of tips on fine tuning the press.

I've had problems with 38/357 brass, particularly with Win primers. Different primer brands are just a little different and can cause the problem you describe. You can purchase a primer pocket go-no go guage to see if it is your brass.

I'm an Auto Disk fan for pistol cartridges, but I use the Auto Drum for .223 and after some tuning it works flawlessly, but it really took some tuning. That is another whole thread.

Brass alignment is usually a timing issue. Always lightly lube the OD of the turret/ID of the turret frame or friction will mess up the timing. Also the speed at which you advance the turret will affect the timing.

The lack of crimping action with the FCD is either an adjustment issue (no crimp following using the die) or the seater die crimping as well (round is crimped). To keep the seater from crimping, put a case with the neck expanded in the shell holder and raise the ram. Screw in the seater die (seater plug backed out) until the crimp ring contacts the case mouth. Back out the die 1/-1/2 turn and lock it down. Then adjust the seating depth with the seater plug.

The dragging as the case is removed from the FCD is the sizing ring sizing the bulge from seating the bullet (or over crimping the case).

The scraping of the case going into the seating die is almost certainly an over expanded case mouth from the powder through die.
Click to expand...

Everything you said is right on the money. I like everything about my Lee turret except the auto rotate. Stopped using that feature a long time ago. The only thing i foung a PITA was the primer shoe sticking in the ram and landing on the floor. I remedied that problem with a zip tie, Perfect after that. Load .357, 45 ACP, 9MM, 45 LC .223
 
GBExpat said:
I never remove my indexing rod when I want to operate in Single Stage Mode. I simply loosen the bolt shown in the pic below, shift the handle to align with the other mark and re-tighten the bolt.

View attachment 1035397

Takes about the same amount of time and I prefer it to removing/reinstall the turret disk and indexing rod.

Just a personal preference. :)

========

Oh, another Tip ...

The LCT die disks will mount perfectly into some 3" cardboard cores (most of mine are 2"wide packing tape cores). When I have my disks loaded with dies there are always components protruding unevenly from the bottom. Sometimes I like to remove a loaded disk and replace it with another for a short period.

The 3" cores are a handy temporary storage location that allow the loaded disk to stably sit upright so I don't have to worry about damage or propellant spillage. ;)
Click to expand...
I use a tin can of the correct dia. with piece of foam as a buffer
 
Skinnedknuckles said:
Slight correction - the FCD crimping plug for the 38 Special/357 Magnum round is, in fact, a roll crimp ring, not a taper crimp ring. If you want to taper crimp with the 38 Special FCD, the easy way is to purchase (actually free plus shipping as a replacement part) a 9mm crimp plug and cut it off to the same length (cutting above the crimp ring) as the 38 Special plug. I use the taper crimp plug for plated bullets and the roll crimp for everything else.
Click to expand...
Well, how about them apples....I have only used my set on 38spl up to now, and must be applying a very light crimp, because I was sure it was a taper crimp. But sure enough, looked it up on Lee's site, and it is set up as a roll crimp. Well good, that will make things easier when I start up a run of 357 later this month:thumbup:
 
on the priming 357 brass problem: it might be the brass. I've had some primer pockets on S&B 357 mag that were essentially crimped in place. I was having primer seating issues until I took my chamfer tool to a deprimed case and cut a bevel to the primer pocket. I've also found a light spritzing on spray on lube can help many cases.
 
I wanted one for a long time picked one up found that it was not for me, nothing wrong with the press it just was not for me !!
 
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I use a Lee 4 hole turret press - upgraded from a 3 hole press a couple of years ago. It does everything I need it to do. Here are a few things I would like to suggest:

1. Forget on press priming on the Lee. Get a hand or bench mounted priming tool. I did this and never looked back. Much better control
2. Clean/uniform the primer pockets. You can do this by hand or use the Frankford Arsenal or RCBS motorized tool. This will help you get more consistent primer depth.
3. Some powders meter better through a powder measure than others. Unique does not meter well, while Accurate #5 or power pistol (for example) meter exceptionally well. Choose your powder carefully.
4. If you want truly consistent belling, you will have to trim your brass to consistent lengths. Frankly, I do not trim my pistol brass. I just find the "happy medium" that works with my cases as they are. It might take a little tinkering, but you will get the hang of it.
5. If you are using a 4 die set, back the seating die out to where it just fits in the turret, and the seating stem almost all the way out, put an empty case in the shell holder, raise the ram, and run the seating die in until it just touches the top of the case. Then run the locking nut down. Lower the ram and now put in a dummy or live round of the length you want, run the ram up again, and run the stem in until it touches the top of your loaded round. Mark the seating stem and die with a sharpie for future reference. Your seating die will be set to the proper COAL and will have no crimp.
6. Now adjust your FCD to give you the proper crimp.

Not trying to come across as a know it all - because I am NOT! I learn something new about reloading all the time from the fine folks on here and from my own dumb@$$ mistakes:rofl:. Those are just some things I have done that have helped me with the Lee turret press. Hope this helps!
 
It's been said before, but I'd like to stress again; prime as a separate step.
It's pretty important to have a good, uncluttered sense of feel, to ensure it's done proper
 
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